Zorlord wrote:maybe look into other forums of people who specifically upgrade these kinds of guns? there may be info on how to do such a thing there.
I tried for days= no info on upgrades
I tried for days= no info on upgrades
Heres nice pics of the internals of the P99 Compact,its impossible for any info online of how to strip this pistol so I had to get the Schematic Emailed to me by Umarex U.S.A and figure it out myself
Heres that Tiny Hammer Spring,I tried squashing it by hand and there's actually quite a lot of tension there!?,more than it looks to have
The pathetic small 3.5" barrel,just too small to generate much fps
The valve and nozzle in the third and fourth pictures is where the magic happens, at minimum you should bore them out slightly, without weakening them excessively on the other hand. If you can open the valve itself there could be some work to be done in there too.
A much longer barrel will also be beneficial of course, covered with a nice tube though maybe with less tape...
I cant get a barrel the exact ID and OD that I need,the OD of the barrel on this gun as important as the ID because of the clear breech seal and how it fits in the black plastic sleeve's.
Even if I could get a barrel from the P99 recon version ,its 2" longer than the P99 Compact
http://www.replicaairguns.com/posts/201 ... eview.html .
I have tried all week to buy the barrel off of a P99 Recon and any other spares but the best I could do was a reply from Umarex U.S.A who sell spares BUT ONLY TO U.S RESIDENTS!,arggghhh!!!!.Unless I can get someone in the U.S to order the barrel and send it to me then I have no hope of a longer barrel,can anyone help!?.
Ive ordered and recieved into Australia Airsoft barrels/hop up buckings etc no probs so there wont be customs probs with the barrel....
JACK= I cant widen out that brass loading nozzle at all,its a sloppy fit on the valve's nozzle as it is and is definately losing gas out there because of sloppy tolerances on it.The valve I have had apart before but I dunno if much can be done with it,should have taken internal valve pics..
Django, regarding the barrel, if you can live with aluminium, I can fix you up. I'll turn down the first 4" of it to 5.98mm , and leave another 8" at 6.35mm for strength.
Can you post a picture of the breach end of the barrel and the crown?
Asking around on the other forum might help too, Admin might be able to help.
My best advice would be to arm yourself with a vernier caliper, take some measurements and head down to your nearest friendly machine shop and get some decent fitting parts made. They can make you a barrel too, if you're using steel BBs go for 4.4mm, lead BBs 4.5mm.
Aluminium will wear down wayyyy too fast mate,the barrel isnt even crowned at all ( both ends of the barrel are just cut flat with same OD the whole length of it).
It does have that groove cut in it though for that little C- CLIP on the barrel ,this is placed in an exact position so that the breech end with the clear rubber grommet sits perfectly flush in the black plastic housing.
Are you running steel or lead through it? Depending on how well the BBs are finished, I can't see it wearing too quickly.
If I can keep the shipping down, it's yours anyway, I got a very nice deal of the tubing.
Running Steel Daisy BB's, they are zinc coated and sort of a rough finish on them but dirt cheap. These are the only ones I have found locally,ive never seen the copperhead ( copper coated) ones here anywhere,they are smooth ,odd thing is while googling many folk say the copperhead ones are heaps less accurate than the rougher Daisy ones!!??...
The accuracy is probably due to the rough surface, like a golf ball. The tubing is a bit overbore for steel BBs, talk to your LGS about the Gamo lead BBs, they're fairly cheap.
Zinc is soft enough for aluminium tubing, assuming you aren't putting hundreds of BBs down it a week.
I have the Gamo Lead balls but they dont work in the P99 Compact because they all just pop out the magazine,the mag is magnetic at the top of it,that holds the first bb inplace.
I might have to PM you with some info so I can get an Aluminium barrel made up but I would have thought it would be too soft a material.
Just measured the Gamo Lead balls = 4.47mm those Daisy steel BB's are 4.32mm
I put one of the Gamo lead balls in the barrel,it does go in but was a tight fit! it wont roll down the barrel but if you blow down it hard it pops out..
No worries, just an idea for you, fill the mag with lead BBs, then chuck a steel one on top.
And I reckon Aluminium should handle a fair few shots, obviously won't take as much as steel, but until you can get it replaced, it'll do.
All I need is the exact OD, any milled out sections, and whereabouts the channel for the clip is. Also, what length do you want it? I've got 12 meters of this tube, as long as it'll fit in something from Australia Post.
Theres only 1 other problem= the thing that holds the barrel inplace is that little circlip( stops the barrel moving backwards) but also the muzzle end of the barrel sits inside the black plastic barrel shroud,the barrel shroud has a hole at the end... big enough to let bbs out but small enough that the barrel cant fly forwards.
Running a longer barrel I then have to open up the shroud hole so the longer barrel pokes through but then have to devise a way that the barrel cant move forwards now? and somehow make a fake silencer to hide the longer barrel.God know how I'll be able to get one to attatch to it see below Barrel flush with slide
HOW THE BARREL IS HELD IN
Does it work without the slide? If it does, chuck in the long barrel, see how well it works, then cut it down. Or I can just turn down a 3 1/2" barrel and a long one.
For the price I pay for the tube, I'd be happy to send a dozen barrels.
It wont work without the slide,well I wont try it taken apart.
I still have the original 3.5" barrel and it all still works mate,I just want to give it more power cause in stock form its teribly low powered or at least mine is!. So I was thinking either a 6" or 7" barrel. but like I said somehow I have to hide the barrel with a silencer and somehow attatch it to the gun reasonably well or I'll end up bumping and bending the barrel...
Oh yeh and those Gamo lead balls are $$$$ they cost me $15.00 a tin!!
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