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Built a combustion cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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Unread postAuthor: PCGUY » Sat Feb 12, 2005 10:14 pm

<div align="center">BCC
Basic Combustion Cannon

Provided By fiebigspudguns - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/fiebigspudguns/">http://www.geocities.com/fiebigspudguns/</a></div>
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HANDLE.jpg
Now of course you could just not deal with the handle, and you could just mount the igniter directly in the pipe, but the problem is, if the seal isnt strong enough, when you push the ignter, it'll fly out ouf the barrel. and probably take your finger with it.

Now for saftey reasons, I reccomend you wrap the 3&quot; pipe (just the exposed pipe, not the couplings) in a couple layers of ducktape. Supposedly this will deter pieces of pipe from flying into you should something go horribly wrong. I for one doubt that this would help much at all, But since promotion of safety is cool I still put it on here.
IGNITER2.jpg
You could cement the igniter to the couplings, but then if something goes wrong, you cant get to it. So I just taped it. now ducktape the coupling (with igniter inside) onto the handle. Next you can solder the other end of the wires to the screws. Polarity doesnt matter. I also put some electrical tape over the screw heads on the outside.
IGNITER.jpg
The wire that comes with the igniter fits onto the contact on the bottom on the igniter. I would not use that wire, but if you do, solder it on. I just used some more of my wire. Both of these wires you just soldered on should be about a foot long. DO NOT attach the wires to the screws yet! Moving on, get your two 3/4&quot; couplings and glue them together to make a long one. This is to hold the igniter. You dont have to glue them together but its nicer if you do. OK set that aside.

Take your door pull and measure where it will be on the gun. Mark it off and get out your dremel tool. Grind the location down so it's flat. If you have to screw the handle directly onto the 3&quot; pipe, get a different handle. One side should rest on the coupling and the other on the reducing coupling. That way youre grinding down a really thick part, and not your 3&quot; pipe which is potentially hazardous. Before you screw it on, mark where the holes will go and drill a hole (to prevent cracking). Screw it on using the included screws and there you go. Next wrap the saudered wire on the igniter with electrical tape and feed the igniter and wires through the coupling.
IGNITER.jpg (3.36 KiB) Viewed 4425 times
INSIDECHAMBER.jpg
OK, your done with that part. Move on the igniter. this part is tricky so be careful. there is a contact on the bottom and a small wire on the side that goes from the top, down the side, and inside. you will need to solder a wire onto that little wire. MAKE SURE you dont drop any solder into the inside of the igniter, and dont try to pry out the little wire, both of these actions will screw it up big time!
BARRELKNIFE.jpg
Finally attach the barrel to the chamber via the reducing coupling and look at your creation. Now take it all apart and get your primer and cement ready. Unscrew them both so you dont waste time opening and closing cans. Be sure to read all the instructions on the cans. Once you know what to do, get lots of newspapers and lay them out to prevent glue from getting all over the place. Prime each piece one at a time as you go along. Glue it together in the same order as you assembled it before. I reccomend you take the plug out of the cleanout during this process. Let the glue dry overnight.

The next day, get your igniter, screws, 3/4&quot; couplings, handle and wire ready. You will first want to screw the drywall screws into the chamber. These are your ignition contacts. To prevent the barrel from cracking (which shouldnt be a proplem if you have good pipe, but still do this), drill a hole a where you want the screws to go. You want about a 1/4&quot; to 1/2&quot; distance between the screw tips on the inside. You could put them on comlplete opposite sides of the chamber, but I put them closer together.
BARRELKNIFE.jpg (10.55 KiB) Viewed 4425 times
NEWCANNON.jpg
The basic combustion spudgun is great for a first time gun. It's reletively cheap. I spent about $40 on mine and it can be completed in only about one weekend.

Make sure all the pieces fit before you glue. So assemble it all and make sure its ok (dont fire it!) THEN glue! I'd start with the chamber. So take the 3&quot; pipe and attach the coupling to one end. on the other end of the coupling, put the cleanout. OK so that is where you put in the fuel. Take the reducing coupling and put it on the other end of the 3&quot; pipe. Now preping the barrel knife is the hardest part. Get out a dremel tool or a file and on one end of the barrel, grind the edge down so a 'blade' is formed. This takes TIME! SO DONT RUSH IT! But when youre done, it will automaticly cut the potato to size when you shove it in. It's also a good idea to grind down a little on the inside of the barrel. This ensures a good tight fit.
NEWCANNON.jpg (7.88 KiB) Viewed 4425 times
Last edited by PCGUY on Sun Jul 23, 2006 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: theexp » Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:18 pm

:shock: Wow :shock: Nice job on apllying primer, Give it a paint job, lol
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Unread postAuthor: jessemiller612 » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:48 pm

if u look at the top picture he has given it a paint job he painted it black!!!
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Unread postAuthor: spudshot » Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:46 pm

he's referring to the purple primer stains all over the place, if you're talking to theexp. if you dont know what primer is, you need it to properly glue cannons together, it softens up the PVC before applying PVC cement
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Unread postAuthor: rozby » Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:44 pm

:evil: cool did u think of the handleset up
ps u shola left the pirple primer it looks like pirple blod ozzzing from the canion
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Unread postAuthor: Andrew52 » Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:22 pm

primer looks shity but thats what krylons for 8)
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Sat Apr 08, 2006 12:37 pm

the reduser bushing isn't even half way into the hole what did he do, wait for the glue to dry before putting it together.
P.S Make i new one it looks like shot
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Unread postAuthor: spudshot » Sat Apr 08, 2006 3:19 pm

its not in the hole because the fitting depth of an NSF-PW reducer bushing is greater than the depth of an NSF-DWV bell reducer
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Fri May 05, 2006 9:58 am

ok that works but you should still build a new one and scrap the DWV
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