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Ball valve on endcap question?

Post questions and info about combustion (flammable vapor) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about fuels, ratios, ignition systems, safety, and anything else relevant.
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Ball valve on endcap question?

Unread postAuthor: wangpushups » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:17 am

Ok so i've looked everywhere trying to figure out how you get the ball valve on the endcap...what's the trick to doing so? Thats the only thing I need to know about finishing my gun.
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Unread postAuthor: Pete Zaria » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:26 am

I've never tried to mount a ball valve (for venting) on an end cap.

Instead, consider using a male threaded adapter and a reducer.

On my cannon, I glued a 1.5" valve onto a 1.5" - 2" adapter, glued that to a 2" - 4" adapter, and then attached that to the combustion chamber with six large bolts (and no glue) so it could be removed for maintenance/repairs in the future.

Hope that helps.

Peace,
Pete Zaria.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:57 am

I used a 2" hole saw to drill a hole in an end cap, then a Dremel tool to increase the diameter of the hole to slightly larger than the outside diameter of 2" male NPT threads. After doing so, I slid a 2" male threaded adapter through the end cap, and screwed the ball valve onto the protruding threads. The connection was sealed with silicone sealant to prevent leaks.

Because you are not required to remove 6 bolts every time you wish to access the interior of your chamber, I would choose this method over the one described by Pete, though his method is a good choice if you don't mind the extra hassle.
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Unread postAuthor: wangpushups » Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:35 am

Ok i'm sure i'll figure it out... so spudblaster15, I have to admit that the resurrected combustion you have totally inspired me to make mine, your gun was one of the first guns i've seen on here and i'm workin on it right now.
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Unread postAuthor: Redcoat » Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:17 am

I always mount my Ball valve to an endcap. Use a male to male adapter, and drill a hole to the wanted size in the endcap. Then thread the adapter in and put the ball valve on the other end. You might want to put plumbers tape/Teflon tape on the threads though.

Happy SPuddin'

Edit- I just realised then, This is for venting a combustion. Sorry Mine was for Pneumatic, though it could still be used. Sorry.
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:10 pm

I just got one big screw-on endcap :)
Now that vents.

Just dont use sticky hairspray.
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Unread postAuthor: Pete Zaria » Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:13 pm

Here's a picture I just uploaded of how I attached my vent valve: http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1833/img1899lw4.jpg

It works very well but is a pain in the @$$ to open the chamber for adjustments - do it right the first time :)

Peace,
Pete Zaria.
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Unread postAuthor: HaiThar » Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:39 pm

Why use the cap to begin with? Why not use a cleanout plug or just a ball valve without a cap?
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Unread postAuthor: MortarArmy » Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:09 pm

3" chamber to 2" reducer attach to that a couple inches of 2" pipe as a coupler, then a 2" ball valve. glue it all together and have the fastest venting you can get for $13, and 10 minutes worth of time.
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Unread postAuthor: noname » Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:00 pm

MortarArmy wrote:3" chamber to 2" reducer attach to that a couple inches of 2" pipe as a coupler, then a 2" ball valve. glue it all together and have the fastest venting you can get for $13, and 10 minutes worth of time.


<a href="http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/files/newcombustion_002_536.jpg">I heartily disagree!</a>

4" cleanout: $1
2" pipe bracket thing: $0.69
Bolt: $0.03
Washer: $0.01
Duct Tape: had already
2 Nuts: $0.02
Spring: $0.59
Rubber Washer: $0.49

Total Cost: $2.23
Vents a 4" x 24" chamber is 3-4 seconds.
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Unread postAuthor: wangpushups » Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:27 pm

OK so if I have the 2" to 4" reducer attached to the ball valve I can just bolt the reducer onto the chamber, but, wont it leak air if its not glued on there?
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Unread postAuthor: Flamex » Mon Oct 15, 2007 1:05 pm

I installed a 1.5" ball valve on my combustion gun. All I needed was a male 1.5" male adapter that I cemented into the 3" to 1.5" bushing on the back of the combustion chamber. I then just screwed the ball valve onto the protruding threads.
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:15 am

I think Sgorty made his by drilling a 2-3/8" hole in the cap, gluing a small piece of pipe into the ball valve. Then, he pushed the pipe through the cap with some glue, and then glued on a 2" coupling half on the inside to hold the valve in place.
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Unread postAuthor: sjog » Thu Oct 25, 2007 11:00 pm

<img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o12/sjogun/IMG_0169_3.jpg" border="0"><img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o12/sjogun/IMG_0168.jpg" border="0">

L7 gbl
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