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how do you guys set up peizo bbq sparkers?

Post questions and info about combustion (flammable vapor) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about fuels, ratios, ignition systems, safety, and anything else relevant.
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how do you guys set up peizo bbq sparkers?

Unread postAuthor: turner » Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:38 pm

on my combustion, mine fits perfectly in 3/4 pvc and i just have holes drilled in the side. the wires were placed as close to the two contacts and hot glued in place. Has anyone been sucsesful in soldering? i tried to with a lighter but started to melt the plastic
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Unread postAuthor: Cosmic Muffin » Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:00 pm

you need a propane, LPG or MAPP blowtorch to solder. a lighter flame isn't hot enough.

EDIT: sorry, you need a soldering iron to do electronic soldering.
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Unread postAuthor: turner » Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:25 pm

I've done small things with a lighter, it's just the plastics to close. Has it worked with an iron?
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Unread postAuthor: Cosmic Muffin » Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:57 am

well the iron is the right tool for the job. you should invest in one.
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Unread postAuthor: bradisfun » Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:40 am

yeah u can get small cheap 1 for like 5 buck
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Unread postAuthor: sgort87 » Sat Dec 05, 2009 2:00 am

A lot of BBQs come with wires, complete with clips to attach to the sparker. If you can find one of these or clip-on tips for your current setup, you'll be golden.

If not, you can solder it on or just tape em in place. It'll work as long as the wires can't pull away.
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Unread postAuthor: inonickname » Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:09 am

When I tried soldering wires to the contact on my piezo for my advanced mini I broke the first piezo.

I ended up using copper tape to attach it (used for lead-lighting). It's completely solderable, has low resistance (even on adhesive side) and is quite strong. I also used it in the spark strip.

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Unread postAuthor: Boom_erang » Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:42 pm

I just tried soldering a wire to the tip of the BBQ igniter and was unsuccessful (the connector on the side was no problem). I even tried filing off the outer "finish" from the tip - still, no dice. Instead, I used the copper connectors that come on the wires included with the BBQ igniter kit.

You also want to keep your wires separated as much as possible from each other.
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Unread postAuthor: Joshatdot » Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:24 am

I get the Weber Ignitors, drill a 19/32 hole in a PVC threaded cap and glue it in place with PVC glue and some hot glue for extra help.

I then drill (7/64) & tap (6-32) two holes in my chamber, and find correct length of 6-32 stainless steel screws for the gap. I use 6-32 locking washer & wing nut to secure the BBQ wires to the screws inside the chamber. I finish it up with screw covers.

Here's my latest one:
- 3x3x1.5in Sanitary 'T'
- 3in clean-out adapter
- 3in plug
- 3in to 1.5in reducer bushing
- 1.5in female thread adapter
- 1.5in terminal adapter (from electrical PVC, it has a deeper female smooth area for better glue hold on barrel)
- 1.5x21.5in thinwall PVC pipe (160psi rating)
- 1.5 pipe about 1.5in long to connect the 'T' to a male thread adapter
- 1.5in threaded cap w/BBQ ignitor
- Gorilla Duct Tape to cover the 'T' hole
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Attachments
7510_1_lg.jpg
Weber BBQ Ignitor
7510_1_lg.jpg (15.67 KiB) Viewed 1294 times
mini-IMG_8069.jpg
Size comparison to Gumout Starting Fluid can
mini-IMG_8075.jpg
Holding it in my hand
mini-IMG_8079.jpg
Inside the chamber w/6-32 screws, wires, wing nuts.
mini-IMG_8086.jpg
Side view of screw, snap &amp; cover
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Unread postAuthor: Joshatdot » Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:24 pm

Not to thread jack, but my issue is with my design as described above.

I've been getting spark failure, somewhere between the button & the screws I see sparks. Since my tape is blocking my view I am not sure if it's sparking from wire to wire, or from wire to PVC wall.

I am guessing from wire to PVC wall. I've done dozens of sparking with the sparker & wires out of the chamber and twisted together, 100% spark between the crimped on ring terminals.

I am thinking of wrapping small bit of electrical tape on the very top of the screw. So when it screws into the PVC the tape should insulate it some. I am also going to add some fiber washers between the PVC chamber & ring terminals.
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Attachments
IMG_8098 - Sparker-01.jpg
BBQ sparker glued to threaded PVC cap.
IMG_8099 - Sparker-02.jpg
Another angle
Potato Cannon V3 - Spray & Pray .. soon to be converted to metered propane & chamber fan.
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Unread postAuthor: Joshatdot » Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:03 am

Well I thing the fiber washers on the inside is working best, the tape on the top just kinda squashed out and didn't get into the threads.

I've done 40+ dry fires, and they all sparked between the screws.
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Attachments
IMG_8104 - Sparker-03.jpg
Final, hopefully, working solution. See the fiber washers =)
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Unread postAuthor: Boom_erang » Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:51 am

PVC does not conduct. However, it looks to me like your wires are crossed. IMO, even if insulated, the two wires are the closest point - closer to each other than the tips of the spark gap. Also, your gap appears to be a bit large for a BBQ ignitor.
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Unread postAuthor: jimmy101 » Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:16 pm

What boomer said. Shorten up the gap to perhaps 1/8" or so and if you can sharpen the screws to points.
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Unread postAuthor: Joshatdot » Thu Jan 07, 2010 3:47 am

As I said in previous post, I have tested the wires twisted around one another, out of the chamber...100% spark between the ring terminals. Ever since I've added the fiber washers, all sparks have been between the screws. BTW the spark gap is about 1/4in or less, which is about the same/or less then the original crematic probe & collector box spark thing.
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Unread postAuthor: Boom_erang » Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:21 am

Sounds like you're good to go!
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