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Dual Sparks

Post questions and info about combustion (flammable vapor) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about fuels, ratios, ignition systems, safety, and anything else relevant.
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Dual Sparks

Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:02 pm

I am currently using the piezoelectric device from a long nosed lighter as an ignition source for my cannon. Do these have enough power to work with dual spark gaps? I dont really want to go drilling more holes in my launcher if it is not going to work.

Thanks.
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Unread postAuthor: Tshylea » Sun Oct 22, 2006 7:17 pm

Try just wiring it up outside of your cannon first. If you can get a decent spark then go for it.
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Unread postAuthor: jjk92 » Sun Oct 22, 2006 7:18 pm

spudblaster if its a medicine bottle cannon that should do the trick but a big cannon not so much a couple of suggestions: a large bbq grill sparker sold at homedepot by the grills has a big red botton on it , a stun gun, electric fly swatter, or a lattern sparker
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Unread postAuthor: 034936 » Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:51 pm

how do u get bbq ignitors to split to make 2 sparks?
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Unread postAuthor: experament_u2 » Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:14 am

y wont a long nose lighter work for big cannons
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:40 am

I have one on mine, but wired to a single spark setup. I was asking whether or not they produce enough current to jump 2 distant gaps. The longer the wires, the more current loss you will experience.
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Unread postAuthor: 034936 » Mon Oct 23, 2006 2:15 am

can anyone walk me through how exactly they set up their dual spark ignition from a bbq ignitor? thanks
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Unread postAuthor: jjk92 » Mon Oct 23, 2006 2:24 pm

im sorry i should have clarified that it will work but from my experience not at all well a two spark wold be like this the T's are screws connect one wire to the far right screw and one wire to the far left screw then there is a screw in the middle the paint picture would not work so hhere it is T=screw *=spark connest one wire to the (+) screw and one to the (-) screw


(+) T T T(-)
* *
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Last edited by jjk92 on Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: patchystar04 » Mon Oct 23, 2006 7:28 pm

a standard igniter will jump a 3-5 mm spark so compensating for electric resistance the skrews would be near 2 mm apart not only being a pain to drill but then the sparks wouldn't even jump through the gasses (just air that is atomosphered to the skrews) thus not even igniting it. not saying that it will not work but you may have many misfires However, a BBQ igniter will jump 8-12mm making it much easier for the spark to jump through gas igniting it ( they also have a more powerful spark) and now you know and knowing is half the battle (GI joe)
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Unread postAuthor: escape » Tue Oct 24, 2006 4:03 am

Easiest way to rig up a dual sparks is using the CS system. Easy and effective, simple as that. http://www.burntlatke.com/short.html

Best site for beginners wanting some basic information on some otherwise reasonably complicated things.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Tue Oct 24, 2006 11:11 pm

Well, It works. Using a $2 long nosed lighter, 4 screws, some eyelet connectors and some wire, I successfully rigged a dual arc ignition system. The gaps are about 5mm each, and the spark jumps them easily.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:12 pm

Ok, I couldnt resist, I just had to try 3 spark gaps. Using this same long nosed lighter, 2 more screws, more eyelet connectors, and more wire, I now have a 3 spark ignition system. It fires every time, and has easily doubled the muzzle velocity of my gun.
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Unread postAuthor: escape » Fri Oct 27, 2006 1:50 am

Nice...How strong is each individual spark oppossed to when you were using just one ignition point, you were at any point?

KIR
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Fri Oct 27, 2006 9:23 am

I am using shorter gaps for each spark now, so I can see no difference in their strength. Its the same in my eyes.
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