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3 electrode method

Post questions and info about combustion (flammable vapor) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about fuels, ratios, ignition systems, safety, and anything else relevant.
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3 electrode method

Unread postAuthor: Bluetooth » Fri Dec 15, 2006 8:32 pm

I know camera flash igniton has been talked about alot but in the three electrode method i know what the two main leads are but what is the trigger lead?
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:57 pm

The trigger lead comes from the metal plate behind where the flash tube would go, and it creates a strong current that ionizes the air between the current electrodes, allowing electricity to flow in the form of a spark.
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Unread postAuthor: Bluetooth » Sun Dec 17, 2006 1:10 pm

Thnx but you didn't have to explain all that i already new that :o ! I just needed to know which place to connect the third wire.
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Sun Dec 17, 2006 9:40 pm

The little metal plate behind the flash bulb.
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Unread postAuthor: Bluetooth » Sun Dec 17, 2006 9:55 pm

Well I ment that you just had to say that, which is already in your first post.
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Mon Dec 18, 2006 6:37 am

Well... now I'm just stumped. What do you mean? You connect the third wire to that metal plate with some solder, and then connect that to a screw that's spaced evenly with the other two screws in a triangle pattern, all about less than a mm apart.
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Unread postAuthor: Hotwired » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:31 am

Actually markfh11q that third lead gives off a high voltage pulse which ionises the air.

The third wire goes between the two main wires without touching. Just move them back and forth between tests to work out how close the two main wires need to be for the spark to jump when the third wire ionises the air.
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:57 am

hotwired wrote:Actually markfh11q that third lead gives off a high voltage pulse which ionises the air.

Ahh... don't bust my balls over some technical term <I>here</I>. I actually didn't know what to call it because it's not really a complete circuit anyways, it's just giving off a strong + charge, stripping electrons from the air.

Also, the spacing needs to be really close for this to work right. It makes for a small spark, but it's a hot one.

EDIT:

And another thing I'd be interested in testing would be how to get dual sparks out of this method. I think it's possible but I'm not sure, I'd have to test.
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Unread postAuthor: Bluetooth » Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:25 pm

You could have a spark strip and across from the spark strip put two screws, both connected to the little metal plate and each screw across from a gap in the spark strip.
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Unread postAuthor: Bluetooth » Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:41 pm

I just connected everything and the spark doesn't jump. I have to touch the positive and negative wires together to get it to spark. Can I just have the positive and negative electrodes touching each other in the chamber and just have a switch on one of them?
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:45 pm

But the spark is caused because there is a VEEERY small gap between them when you are closing them together. If you had them in a fixed position, it would be very hard, if not impossible, to do this.

I still don't get what's going on with your setup. Can you post a picture possibly to show how you have the whole thing set up? Maybe you have an odd type of camera?

EDIT: If I can find a disposable camera, I'll show you what I mean.
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Unread postAuthor: Bluetooth » Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:50 pm

How small it VEEERY? I am using a Fuji Film camera.
EDIT: I finally got it to work. I've got an idea by what you meant by VEEERY :lol: !
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