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| PCGUY |
 Posted: 02/26/2005 23:53 PM Post subject: Bolt Action Breech Loader |
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Evil Admin
Joined: 18 Aug 2004
Posts: 1192
4369.07 Spud Bux
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BREECH LOADER
Provided By - http://members.aol.com/sph911/spud/
This barrel modification is used primarily in conjunction with the PSR-0. This device allows for easy breech loading of small bore projectiles into the pneumatic launcher, and operates exactly like other breech loading rifles. This unit has an entire barrel as well, it is not an add-on like sound suppressors, as seen on other web pages.
MATERIALS.
16" of 1 1/2" Pipe
40" of 1" Pipe
Small hose clamp for 1" Pipe
Screw and wooden dowel for lock
1 1/2" Bushing x2
1 1/2" Coupling x2
1" to Male thread
Washer (information below)
ASSEMBLY.
First off, you need a 40" section of 1" pipe, this is for the barrel. Taper one end to a smooth finish at about 45 degrees. This is to make a tight fit with the washer. Find a washer that fits tightly inside the 1 1/2" pipe and will seal correctly with the barrel. This is important to secure an airtight seal. (I and others who have built this gun have incredible difficulty forming a good seal. As a result of my design, the vibration from the air against the washer creates a deafening honking sound, not very sniper-like. Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated.) The washer should go between the first bushing and the coupling towards the end of the barrel that screws into the solenoid valve (see below). For the bushing towards the front, you will have to shave off the pipe stop with a Dremel. Make sure it is a good enough shave so the barrel can slide in and out of it with ease.
The 1 1/2" pipe is cut as shown with enough room on top to allow access to the barrel. The section is about 1 1/2" from one end, and runs the length of the breech for 8 1/2". Use a Dremel tool to cut the opening, or alternatively, drill a section large enough to fit a small saw blade in and cut the hole with a saw. The notch should be as wide as the piece of wood you use for the handle. See notch and handle in pictures below. Once the couplings and bushings are glued and dried in place slide in the barrel, tapered end first and find where the clamp should be so the barrel fits tight with the washer. Just glue on the remaining threaded piece that screws into the valve to make it modular with your guns.
Breech closed.
Breech open.
This barrel allows for creative uses in ammunition including carrots, paper cones, marshmallows, batteries, dowels and more. See the ammo page for more ideas.
Provided By - http://members.aol.com/sph911/spud/
Last edited by PCGUY on 07/29/2006 1:09 AM; edited 1 time in total |
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| kevl12377 |
| Posted: 09/25/2005 1:11 AM Post subject: |
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Private
Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 21
96.19 Spud Bux
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| there are a few design flaws in that but i cant help u out cuz i dont know how to fix them
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| kevl12377 |
| Posted: 09/25/2005 1:12 AM Post subject: |
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Private
Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 21
96.19 Spud Bux
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| and try useing hot glue around the washer it might help the seal. or gorilaa glue or something
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| PCGUY |
| Posted: 09/25/2005 3:25 AM Post subject: |
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Evil Admin
Joined: 18 Aug 2004
Posts: 1192
4369.07 Spud Bux
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| What are the flaws that you speak of?
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| neilman88 |
| Posted: 10/02/2005 14:17 PM Post subject: |
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Sergeant
Joined: 05 Jul 2005
Posts: 84
145.68 Spud Bux
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| would this also work for combustion?
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| boilingleadbath |
| Posted: 10/02/2005 15:48 PM Post subject: |
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Moderator
Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 1647
5491.22 Spud Bux
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Ah, I see what your problem is... I think. You are complaining about leakage, right?
Your getting leakage at both the washer-barrel interface and where the washer is attached to the air inlet, right? You could use epoxy to secure the washer, but that doesn't fix the washer-barrel inteface. I'm thinking that maybe you could skip the washer - just remove the lip from the second (closer to valve) 1.5-1" bushing, and only glue the inlet pipe most of the way into it.
Like this:
I geuss it'd also be possible to have it go all the way through, and then attach a coupler to it.
Edit:
it = inlet pipe
#1 in diagram = bolt open, #2 = bolt closed
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| saladtossser |
| Posted: 10/02/2005 17:13 PM Post subject: |
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SpudZilla
Joined: 26 Mar 2005
Posts: 1237
98.19 Spud Bux
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u can always use o-rings, better flow.
i mean behind the barrel, not around it
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| Andrew L. |
| Posted: 12/05/2005 23:17 PM Post subject: |
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Private
Joined: 05 Dec 2005
Posts: 1
6.77 Spud Bux
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| hi i wann make breech loading for a tennis ball but it is a tight squeeze for the bal to go into if i can to breech loading does anyone know how to load a cannon fast
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| )DEMON( |
| Posted: 03/13/2006 10:38 AM Post subject: |
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Air head
Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 1392
5185.24 Spud Bux
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| it seems like a good design has anyone made any guns with it yet
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| Arnie |
| Posted: 04/12/2006 22:08 PM Post subject: |
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Private
Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 1
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I think this design has excellent possiblities, I made a breach loading barrel with a repair fitting, seals well but is time consuming unscrewing, and installing the "cartridge". Let me work on it and I will let everyone know of my findings !!
If you cut your "J" in the outer sleeve of a repair coupling and attach your bolt to the portion with the o ring on the outside, Make sure that you do not cut the hook on the "J" too near to the end and allow a full diameter for it to seal against when you pull the bolt back. Barrel will simply connect to the sliding inner. I think that would work quite well. The only problem is you are relying on the plastic outer sleeve which has bee cut away to hold the weight of the barrel. Maybe something with a metal nipple would be better, less expensive and more robust !!!
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| Spyider |
| Posted: 07/06/2006 23:51 PM Post subject: |
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Staff Sergeant
Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 121
0.30 Spud Bux
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i made this breach loader and i love it because i can shoot my tato's much faster and i used a rubberwasher first and apoxeyed it then i put a normal washer behind that for extra streingth.
mine dont leak any air and the first time me and my friends went to the barn to shoot it the potato was so powetfull it broke a 1" thick plastic window. 
so yea its worth it 
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| LucyInTheSky |
| Posted: 07/31/2006 8:51 AM Post subject: |
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1st Lieutenant
Joined: 21 Apr 2006
Posts: 293
864.51 Spud Bux
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| Im currentl making this out of copper but using BLBs design, but with a washer between the two parts of barrel.
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| crazykid |
| Posted: 04/23/2007 19:25 PM Post subject: |
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Private
Joined: 14 Apr 2007
Posts: 12
17.99 Spud Bux
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| this ausome just wat I was looking for i making gun with it
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| roderunner |
| Posted: 05/08/2007 17:16 PM Post subject: |
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Private
Joined: 14 Sep 2006
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I've had more luck with using metal exhaust tubing that slides over the PVC. Just use a dremel or a router to make an o-ring channel, and put an o-ring there. No leakage at all. It is a weak point, so I use 1.5" PVC inside of 2" PVC.
Check it out:
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| vanmaineac |
| Posted: 05/11/2007 6:38 AM Post subject: |
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Private
Joined: 29 Jan 2007
Posts: 10
21.67 Spud Bux
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| what I did with this design was when the barrel goes into the reducer I just changed it so the 1" section went all the way through and put a coupling on the end of it. I think it gives a much better seal
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