ohh I guess I didn't need MS paint after all... Above is the loading mech I used on the semiauto MKIII
Sure it used a QEV but I guess you can modify it to work just like tech's QDV... so it would be a coaxial and the bolt would also be the piston at the same time... a movable bolt should be a lot easier to implement than a moving barrel
I hope you get the idea... you pull the bolt all the way back to load ammo then move it all the way forward and fill he chamber. When you want to fire it you either pull the bolt
though technically it would probably be the best idea to have a spring that pulls it back. Add a small latch that keeps the bolt in place when the gun is loaded and ready to fire and you've got a pretty decent gun
I like my valve design xD and the moving barrel adds to the cool factor, but I'm gonna have to have a pretty strong index finger. In the diagram, I forgot to add a spring behind the trigger. You guys know a place where I can buy springs?Only ones I got are the ones I get from murdering innocent pens
No, actually, I figured how to incorporate the valve into the barrel xD
And I'm on a 60 dollar budget, at my current estimations, barrel, air chamber and other materials will be around 45 dollars.
Also, biggest questions here, are annealed metal good or bad? Where can I find 0.6cm tubing for the barrel?(looked a McMaster, unsuitable) and where can I find some workable metal to build a body frame?
I'm also greeted with the main problem ( there aren't any more from what I can see), if I attach air tank to the gun, is there a way that I can manually open and close it? If I use quick connect there, air will already be feeding through to the neutral position of the clippard valve. Ex- when not firing, air is leaking because quick connect is always on I was thinking of how I can also connect the air tank to the feed when I pull the trigger, but I don't really see how that's going to work if I want my air tank to be detachable ( feature can be removed though, if one of you guys have an idea of how I can pull in and open air tank valve when trigger is pulled)
Heres a brief summary of how it works so JSR won't think I'm a noob xD
Air tank is hooked up to a feed. Valve is in neutral position. When trigger is pulled, it pulls the valve to firing position and air floods the barrel. When barrel is pulled back, magazine also loads another round into barrel( I forgot to draw an O ring there, but there's one behind and in front of where the round would be). Spring will spring valve+barrel+trigger to neutral. If trigger is held, auto fire will ensue.
From what I see, my biggest concern( besides the problem with the airtank) isn't skills, its the ability for me to get the materials
I think your price estimates may be a little hopeful. It is possible to build guns on the cheap but when you add up all valves, fittings, glue and other raw materials there is a good chance of you breaking $100.
I got the shraders, my valve will literally be made up of the same material as the barrel, I discovered how cornstarch and water will make a good filler. I just need to figure out the air tank
Any help on controlling the airtank? Quick question when I convert 0.6 CM to inches, it says 0.23622, rounding up is 0.243, but reverse converting only equals to about 5.99999 mms
I designed my own valve..I believe its similar to a Clippard valve
Also, since I'm gonna use a plastic made of cornstarch and water, my total becomes 59.64 for all materials, no including BB's. and if I ask around, maybe that plastic can be used to make a grip, further decreasing my amount by like 23 bucks
Last edited by nadjatee1996 on Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
So you want to use a direct acting valve right ? one that switches as fast as you can pull the trigger right ?? well, it isn't the best idea - performance will suck
Personally I think you should just get a small QEV and MJVO-3. That's a foolproof design - you can't fu** it up even if you try really really hard
Not that experimenting is a bad thing but if you invest a lot of time and $ in your design and in the end you won't be satisfied with the result
Quick question when I convert 0.6 CM to inches, it says 0.23622, rounding up is 0.243, but reverse converting only equals to about 5.99999
Google fail
You could have calculated it yourself - then it would be ok
And, yea, I'm gonna experiment with this one, since I'm basing this off of Cerberus, the gun in GunBlade, this gun's twin might use an entirely different design
And no, I used like Google, a few online ones and my iTouch converter, all popped back the same results, but 1in = roughly 2.5 cm so meh, I can do it myself
I'm gonna stick with mine for the time being, mainly because I spent like a week pondering of a valve that would work, but I'm might use that valve when I construct its twin..this valve that I modified/created is my brain child...
POLAND_SPUD wrote:you want to move the barrel which is a relatively heavy part. No offence, but it just isn't the best idea.
Still, it's been used succesfully before. In the case of the Anics A-3000, the barrel is in effect the hammer (which explains the agricultural trigger )
As to a barrel, airsoft barrels aren't that expensive, but if you find a model or hobby shop that sells brass and aluminium tubing you will find it cheaper.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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