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| quark1980 |
 Posted: 04/28/2012 2:06 AM Post subject: |
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Specialist
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 55
171.52 Spud Bux
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say whot?
the outer pipe of the airram will be the spot the gun should be mounted on.
i didnt include bumbers and spring/rubber band in the drawing, i assume one could make those on a few different ways, depending on the aesthetic needs...
so, as soon the pressure behind the projectile begins to build up (aka firing the gun) it starts pushing the complete gun backwards... simulating the effect of acceleration of a greater mass projectile...
i really cant think of a different method, wich would still be easy to tweak, AND sturdy...
for example. put in a small balvalve between the barrel and the airram, and you can tweak the amount of pressure wich would bleed into the ram.
give the sliding assembly stronger/weakers springs to adjust the relative travel distance of the recoil action....
please DO post some pics on youre final design tough 
edit:
oooh i have and extra design idea, to make it a bit more realistic maybe..
i was thinking how to replicate the SLOW return of the assembly into firing state.. like the real big guns do...
if you add a high flow check valve between the barrel and airram, in a way that if you fire it lets air pass quickly into the airam simulating the recoil, but blocks it after the shot essentially keeping the gun in the "recoiled" state..
then make a small hole in the valve, or make a small bypass.
you can let the air bleed back into the barrel/air to let it slowly return by the springs into the neutral state again...
i assume this would be a rather easy way to make the recoil as realistic as possible...
edit2:
made a sketch again 
the way stuff would look like greatly depends on the materials you use and skills and tools one would got.. but i hope the principle is clear now...
edit3:
just occured to me that the bleeding hole is rather useless unless the airram is airtight..
the bleeding effect so it returns slowly would also occur if you simply make the airram not-so-airtaight |
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| jackssmirkingrevenge |
| Posted: 05/05/2012 8:46 AM Post subject: |
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aspiring machinist
Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 21967
41080.99 Spud Bux
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Add recoil systems!
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| warhead052 |
| Posted: 05/05/2012 17:47 PM Post subject: |
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Major General
Joined: 21 Mar 2011
Posts: 1777
2981.52 Spud Bux
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| Hahahaha, nice one! Well, I got together with the team today, turns out I have alot at my disposal. They have everything I need, except for the valve. So I am going to start next time I get a chance to go back up there. |
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| Fnord |
| Posted: 05/05/2012 17:58 PM Post subject: |
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reenigne
Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 2194
4935.46 Spud Bux
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| jackssmirkingrevenge wrote: | Add recoil systems!
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That was the most relevant and useful post ever.
Now I just want to see it done from a standing position, sans clothing*, and we could have the makings of a new obscure internet fetish.
*Also in high-speed. |
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| Recoiled_monsteR |
| Posted: 07/06/2012 9:42 AM Post subject: |
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Private
Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 16
49.72 Spud Bux
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Time to revive an older subject. I am new to this site. I found it when searching for a recoil system for a potato cannon. In the future I wish to make a 1/2 scale Soviet SU-152 assault gun. Its main armament was a 152mm artillery gun. I was looking to make it as realistic as possible so that lead to trying to get a recoil system.
I found this post and decided to try the air ram design on my regular spud gun before I put time and money in the main cannon for 1/2 scale tank (by the way 1/2 scale would be a 2.99 (3)" barrel, probably a 4" or bigger chamber not sure any input would be great). Anyways, it works great! I have to get another video now that I got it working great. All I got is a crappy video of a somewhat recoil when i first made it.
The barrel is 1 1/2" necked up to a 3" chamber. Hairspray powered beast. I also have a multi-barrel adapter made up so I can change out barrels quick and easy. Right ahead of the threaded barrel connection I put in a 1 1/2"x1 1/2"x 1" T fitting with 1" pipe that comes down from barrel and then elbows so it is then parallel with the barrel. The outside pipe for the air ram is 1 1/4" PVC with a cap on one end. The air ram is approx 2ft long. I made a rough set of tracks out of 2x4's and 1/2x1/2 square dowel. For return tension I used a elastic exercise band and cut strips and tied them on until the correct tension was achieved.
Next up I need to make a shoulder mount system so it is easier to handle. It is like firing a cannon from your shoulder got get your feet set or you'll stumble while firing it from your shoulder. Shoots straight as an arrow at approx 75 yards. |
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| evanmcorleytv |
| Posted: 07/06/2012 10:05 AM Post subject: |
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Major
Joined: 19 Jun 2010
Posts: 350
21.49 Spud Bux
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| warhead052 wrote: | | Well, this is no where near hand held... Its going to be a 3" or so bore, and 7' long barrel. Going for a howitzer look. This is going to a milsim team, JROTC for that matter, around here, and they want it as close to the real thing as possible. Launching the average nerfs, possible howlers since they make a huge amount of noise. I was thinking a big 3" ball or butterfly valve, for max airflow with it being as close to real as possible (the pulling on the string part at least...) and that dumps the entire chamber right into the barrel. It would be inline, so no reason for the air flow to be blocked or choked or anything. I need it to recoil as much as possible though. |
I can get you a 2 inch sprinkler valve for $90 here, and we can meet, and I can give it to you. They have wonderful power, and are very easy to modify. I can even modify it for you, or set it up for electronic fire. I have also thought of many recoil systems if you are interested. |
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