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Easy split mold for foster slugs (Picture intensive.)

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Easy split mold for foster slugs (Picture intensive.)

Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:46 am

You will need;

Tools:

A drill press with a vise which can be bolted down.
Drill bits, includeing a "bore" sized drill bit.

If you wish to make a "round" nose slug, you will need either a bull nose milling bit, a bull nose router bit, or a spade bit and bench mounted grinder.

The re-shaped spade bit was blafen's idea, and can be found here;

http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/how-to- ... 16319.html


A file for de-burring the aluminum blocks.
Sandpaper 600grit wet/dry
WD-40
A sheet of glass.

Materials:

Blocks of aluminum big enough for the mold. These are 2.5"x1.5"x.75" .
Three bolts, and two nuts. (I used 1/4" bolts.)

Safety glasses.
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Attachments
Close up mold half.JPG
The wavy reflections on the machined surface indicate that the bit was wandering a little. A more sturdy machine and slower feed rates should make for an improvement.
Mold halves.JPG
There you have it. It's not lathe cut to be sure, but it should be serviceable.
Spade bit worked better than expected.JPG
Running at 500rpm, with a LOT of WD-40, the modified spade bit cut aluminum surprisingly well. Better than I expected.
Modified spade bit.JPG
If you wanted a "pointed" slug you're done. If a round nose slug was more what you had in mind, you'll have to form the nose of the mold. Another member, blafen, suggested a modified spade bit a while ago, I thought this was a good time to try it. I used a bench grinder to modify the bit, cooling it frequently in water. Remember to grind the relief on the correct side. Look at a drill bit if in doubt, or ask.
12.JPG
Drill to final size with a SHARP bit. Feed to depth very slow, use a LOT of WD-40.
11.JPG
You can mark the drill bit with a sharpie pen to help you control the depth.
10.JPG
Start drilling. Go in steps of drill sizes depending on what you have. Take no more than 1/4" steps though. Use WD-40 as cutting fluid, and keep the bit and bottom of the hole wet.
9.JPG
Bolt the vise onto the drill press. Using the hole you just drilled, carefully line up with the drill bit as you did before. Snug everything down. (Watch out for cheap drill vises, they tilt the work when you tighten them.) Double check alignment.
8.JPG
Replace the drill bit with a "starter bit" or short, stiff drill bit. Place the mold blocks "bottom" down on the alignment pin. Drill a shallow hole.
7.JPG
Bolt the piece of flat bar to the drill press. Using the same drill bit you used to drill the hole, VERY carefully line up the bit with the hole. Tighten things down, double check alignment.
6.JPG
Drill a matching hole in a piece of flat bar. Do not drill all the way through. 3/16" is enough. Cut an alignment pin from one of your bolts. It should as long as it can be, with the blocks sitting evenly on the flat bar.
5.JPG
Remove the blocks, line them up, bolt them together. Then put them back in the vise, BOTTOM up. Drill a shallow hole DEAD CENTER as shown. 3/16" is plenty deep. The success of the mold hinges on this shallow hole, being lined up perfectly, so take your time, and get it right.
4.JPG
Now we need to CAREFULLY line the blocks up and secure them in the vise. One on top of the other. Drill through both blocks as shown so that they can be bolted together. Use WD-40 as cutting fluid. Keep the bit and the end of the hole wet.
3.JPG
This is what you're looking to get. Smooth and most importantly, flat.
2.JPG
Pick the best side of each block, and wet sand it using the sandpaper on the piece of glass. Keep it wet with the WD-40.
1.JPG
The basic materials. Start by deburring the edges of the blocks with the file.
Last edited by Gippeto on Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:03 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Unread postAuthor: thedeathofall » Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:50 am

Excellent! I absolutely love it!

I sure wish I have access to a drill press.
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:54 am

Very nice, does it have a third part for the hollow tail or is that drilled later
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:42 am

No, no lathe turned parts for this one. :) The idea is a mold that can be made by those having fewer tools. (Same as the stirrup pump.)

The aluminum plate will be used to line the mold up with the drill press, so that the tail can be accurately drilled out.

This should allow easy modification to slug mass and center of gravity.

And with a preset depth stop, reasonably consistent ammunition should be a real possibility.

Not fast, but do-able. :)
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Unread postAuthor: inonickname » Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:42 am

Love it! I'll use this method if I can find some lead to cast in my up and coming 50 cal.
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Unread postAuthor: maggotman » Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:06 am

Gippeto you could make a mould for the hollow bit in the back with a pice of alumieum bar stock in a drill press and a file or sand paper.

btw very nice how to. :)
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Unread postAuthor: trae08 » Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:01 am

Awsome How To Gippeto. I didn't expect to see this up here so soon.
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Unread postAuthor: jeepkahn » Thu Feb 12, 2009 9:46 am

Sometjhing that could be done relatively easily to make it cast hollow tails would be to take another piece of flat stock and set it with alignment pins or screws, and drill and tap a hole for a bolt to thread down through it and once the bolt is installed into the blate take a file or sandpaper and remove the exposed threads... This way you could cast them hollow and still not require a lathe...

I'm actually making something similar out of wood for casting bondo foster slugs, but I'm also mixing lead shot into the bondo for more weight, my slugs are going to be made in 1.5", 1.69", and 2" sizes, hence using bondo ibnstead of lead to keep the cost down... the lead shot I'm mixing in is collected from shot traps at some of the local turkey shoots...
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:28 am

jeepkahn wrote:to make it cast hollow tails


Another option is to cast a heavy nose in a section of pipe that is the same external diameter as the interior diameter of your barrel...
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:58 pm

So how well does it actually work?

Pretty fair if I do say so. (I think I just did! :) )

I did pre-heat the mold somewhat, but the slug would have come out smoother had the mold been hotter yet.

Still, not a bad mold for less than an hours work with limited tools. :)
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Attachments
Turned out not bad.JPG
Lined up for drilling.JPG
Poured.JPG
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Unread postAuthor: Sticky_Tape » Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:48 pm

Can we get a diagonal backside picture? :)
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Unread postAuthor: Ragnarok » Fri Feb 13, 2009 3:38 am

Sticky_Tape wrote:Can we get a diagonal backside picture? :)

That sounds SO wrong... :D

Looks like a nice little mould to me. I'd do one myself, if I had a pillar drill to hand. It'd be nice to be able to do some lead slugs for my launchers - it'd give them some real punch.
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:32 pm

This what you're looking for?

It's the only backside I'll be posting here. :lol:
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:46 pm

Ragnarok wrote:
Sticky_Tape wrote:Can we get a diagonal backside picture? :)

That sounds SO wrong... :D

The butt of something is always a very interesting part, no matter if you're talking about cars, women or bullets. :lol:

Nice howto gippetto!
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Unread postAuthor: jakethebeast » Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:25 pm

good HowTo, i just got an idea how to get this even more smoother. when you are ready in drilling, rtake a wooden dovel little smaller than the slug itself and glue with epoxy fine sandpaper in it (400-800 grid) so its a snug fit and put it in drill and use low speed and lot of CRC or WD-40 to keep it wet. and the slug looks like you poured the lead little bit too cold or just too slow
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