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Step by step to building a cheap oak stock

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Unread postAuthor: turner » Sat Aug 08, 2009 12:27 am

i just carved out a stock today. anyone got a good idea to kind of round the foregrip?

id put pictures up but they wont ever load up here
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Unread postAuthor: absinthe » Sat Aug 22, 2009 8:56 am

if you can get your hands on a "spoke shave" (not cheap but a great wood working tool to have) you can do almost all the outside of the stock to a very smooth finish with hardly any sanding
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Unread postAuthor: inonickname » Sat Aug 22, 2009 9:55 am

A rasp? Chisels?
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Unread postAuthor: chinnerz » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:32 am

i too am making a wooden stock, it is a bit different to yours, but it uses some similar aspects which is why i think you may be able to help me out(if you choose) :lol:
firstly some background info.
the system i am making it for will be (when i finish it) my second spudgun, and my first co-ax, which is why i think it is important to make it look visually appealing.
the stock its self is to be made form regular pine and some MDF, i would use better wood but this is the second stock, and coincidentally the second woodcraft project i am undertaking. so i have decided to paint it with a nice camo print instead. the system is made from pvc, and the barrel is made from aluminium (for strength) the ID of the barrel is about 9 mm.
i have decided to make a barrel breach(even though i know it will reduce its effectiveness)
in order to keep it a comfortable length and at the same time retain a relatively long barrel, i have decided to keep the main system in the back of the stock and extend the trigger about 10 inches (maybe)

so my questions to you(or any one else) are:
how long is a good length for a barrel?
barrel breach... good or bad idea?
is it safe to use 100psi with a pvc tank and a cast hot glue piston?
what does "off" milk smell like?
from trigger to base of handle what is a good length?
what is better araldite or super glue?
if the barrel is a neutral plane, at what angle should the plane of the handle intersect at?

thankyou in advanced for any answered questions :)
ps. i have some quick sketches on paper.... how does one go about showing them to you internet folks
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Unread postAuthor: cangying » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:36 am

Very good

Collection
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:42 am

chinnerz wrote:how long is a good length for a barrel?


Depends, what's your chamber size, valve type, what pressure are you using, are you interested in power, quietness, ease of pressurising.

barrel breach... good or bad idea?


It works, but again, it might not be a good idea depending on your specific needs.

is it safe to use 100psi with a pvc tank and a cast hot glue piston?


Assuming the PVC is appropriately rated and put together and the piston is thick enough, certainly.

what does "off" milk smell like?


Unattended babies

from trigger to base of handle what is a good length?


What do you mean by "base of handle"?

what is better araldite or super glue?


Araldite, no arguments - assuming surfaces are appropriately roughened beforehanrd

if the barrel is a neutral plane, at what angle should the plane of the handle intersect at?


If you could point this out on your pictures maybe we can understand what you're trying to say.

I have some quick sketches on paper.... how does one go about showing them to you internet folks


Do you have a scanner/digital camera?
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Unread postAuthor: chinnerz » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:58 am

Depends, what's your chamber size, valve type, what pressure are you using, are you interested in power, quietness, ease of pressurising.


size as in volume? ill work that out when the sun comes up. i am using an air compressor and noise is not an issue. i am interested in power.


What do you mean by "base of handle"?

sigh.... my lack of understanding when it comes to guns.. i guess ill have to point it out. :(

If you could point this out on your pictures maybe we can understand what you're trying to say.


sounds like a good idea... coz srsly... just reading that... i dont even know what im trying to ask...


Do you have a scanner/digital camera?

yep i have a goodish, but very old dSLR
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Mon Dec 28, 2009 11:33 am

What do you mean by "base of handle"

I think he meant the butt of the stock...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stock_%28firearm%29



you can use wikipedia as a dictionary.. just find the word you need in Chinese wiki and change language to English... of course only if the word exists in both English and Chinese wiki


So what is the best distance between the trigger and the butt of the stock ? it's a matter of personal preference... imagine you are holding a gun and see what length suits you best...
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Unread postAuthor: chinnerz » Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:35 pm

Ok i understand.
So there are no real set dimensions when talking about angles and lengths. However my technical mind is probably going to be very annoyed when it finds out it will have to do a bit of guess work...
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Unread postAuthor: chinnerz » Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:38 pm

.%
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Unread postAuthor: farmerboy32 » Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:41 am

for attaching the rifle components try soldering/epoxying to nuts on the barrel one in the front and in one in the back. then drill to holes under the nuts in the sock and put a bolt into the corresponding nut.
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Unread postAuthor: qwerty » Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:42 am

Thanks for the info but try not to post on old topics.
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Unread postAuthor: ThornsofTime » Thu Oct 07, 2010 2:37 pm

Hello all :lol: (first post here)

Let it be known that i DID indeed read the rules and noticed that kicking up old threads is generally frowned upon, however i have lots of experience in this field and feel as if this needs saying.

PRO TIPS FOR EPIC WIN STOCK:
a) use a hard wood- the softer, usually yellow pine, you find in 2x4's is soft and doesn't sand well if you want a GLASS SMOOTH surface. every area will have a different hardwood selection, but you should look for the distance between grain. (more lines on the wood usually = better sanding finish)
b) i HIGHLY encourage this level of finish on your spudder... however... be aware of the time investment before getting started. i would suspect that this particular stock took upwards of 10hrs to get to this point... with 90% of the time spent sanding.
c) know how to truly use sand paper. start with a rough grit (80) to knock out all your chisels marks, and progress thru higher # values (400+ for a super clean finish) . cant stress this enough... sand sand sand... then do it again.
d) FINISH IT RITE- you just spent HOURS on this stupid scrap of wood... triple layer your stain and finish with a clear polyurethane or wood oil.

HAPPY STOCK BUILDING ALL!!! take pride in the fact that you took a bunch of pipes and fittings... and turned it into a true work of art. I salute you and your craftsmanship jook13

questions? comments? flames?? shoot me a pm :wink:

Pic=resume... one of my most recent stocks for a spring-powered steam-punk themed air-soft rifle.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:56 pm

Wow man that stock is EPIC. It's okay to kick this up. I think they were some good tips.
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Unread postAuthor: chinnerz » Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:28 pm

If you intended to make my eyeballs pop out at first sight... congratulations!
That truly is a 'Win' stock. I agree with you on all the points you have added to this guide.

I think, maybe if you want/have the time, lets write an in depth 'dummy's' guide to stock making.

I have seen a crapload^1of launchers in my time of lurking through the web; there are only a handful of launchers which have been finished to this sort of standard. This may be because people simply don't care about aesthetics/appearance of their creations, they don't have the time/tools/funds, or they don't have the know how.

Although this guide is great^2, i think it doesn't go really in depth. I think if one was written which induced everything here + measurements, examples, and ideas how to make it look 'different/awesome', then maybe we could see a few more well finished launchers.

Also, just an idea, if this was done i think a contest would be in order. :)
______________________________________________
1) the term 'crap load' really should be a standard unit of measurement.
2) and it truly is great, this is what i used to build my first stock.
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