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“NO DRILL” Sprinkler Valve Pneumatic Modification

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Unread postAuthor: Vb_happiness » Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:13 pm

Might this be why you had trouble with my tutorial?


No the reason I had trouble was beacause in Australia I am yet to find anyone who stocks Watermaster products. I found a valve that looked the same as yours. Question, does the Watermaster valve have a 4mm lip on the inside of the neck?
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Unread postAuthor: carlbelcher » Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:38 pm

The valve that I modified while doing this how-to had about a 3/8" lip that the fitting threaded into nicely, and I've tested the modified valve to 125psi with no problems.
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Unread postAuthor: Vb_happiness » Tue Aug 01, 2006 5:30 am

Image

That is my valve, it has the top of the neck cut off and the 3/8" male to 1/4" fem screwed into the adjusable part of the valve. Seen below.

Image

Note: It's not fully screwed in so you can see the thread.
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Unread postAuthor: spudder1 » Mon Aug 14, 2006 7:47 am

Nice tutorial. My question is does the rod go back into the assembly?

Thanks
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Unread postAuthor: Vb_happiness » Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:59 am

No it doesnt go back in, mine didnt
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Unread postAuthor: spudder1 » Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:19 am

Thanks for the reply. I did my mod this weekend, and when the chamber is pressurized to 35 PSI and I squeez the new valve on the mod vavle all the air comes out of the mod valve, and does not open the barrel valve. Do you have a clue?

Thanks for the help
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Unread postAuthor: carlbelcher » Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:35 pm

If your valve doesn't open properly it is because the pilot valve (blow gun) doesn't have a large enough orifice.

You can do one of three things:

One: Try a larger pilot valve such as a 1/4" or 1/2" valve.

Two: You can fill the hole left by the guide rod with epoxy then force a small nail or tack though the epoxy to create a smaller equalization hole.

Three: Take the old guide rod put it thought the hole, bend it into a "U" shape so that it stays in the diaphragm and then trim it to fit in the valve body.
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Unread postAuthor: Vb_happiness » Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:56 am

The Small hole from the guide rod from my observation was to equalise the presure in the top of the diaphram and the chamber end of the valve.... Correct me if i am wrong but without the guide rod mine is doing fine with no leaks what so ever now.
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Unread postAuthor: carlbelcher » Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:25 pm

It depends on the flow of your pilot valve...

You're not blocking the air flow that equalizes the diaphragm you're just slowing it down, so that too much doesn't escape though the equalization hole.
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Unread postAuthor: Vb_happiness » Wed Aug 16, 2006 1:27 am

Ok, so its ok to to leave it, but it is better to plug the hole and make a smaller one?
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Unread postAuthor: carlbelcher » Wed Aug 16, 2006 8:36 pm

It doesn't matter all you really need to do is slow down the flow of air.
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Unread postAuthor: huse_spud » Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:11 pm

great tutorial man! ...all my life, i have been taught to fear flow control, that without flow control was the way to go.

...now thanks to you i can build spudguns without fear! thank you! thank you! thank you!

and btw...i've been... sleeping with ur grandma.

please nominate me for the drama king award.

thanks
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Unread postAuthor: frankrede » Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:46 pm

Using the no tap method you can mod anti syphon valves.Yay,over unders are left out never more!!!
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Unread postAuthor: mostly broken » Mon Aug 28, 2006 2:10 pm

using the no drill method can the blow gun be located in the solenoid hole instead?
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Unread postAuthor: carlbelcher » Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:50 pm

Short Answer: NO!

Explanation:

Question: Modding a sprinkler valve
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