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Copper pipe.

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Copper pipe.

Unread postAuthor: WOW!! » Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:08 pm

How to solder copper piping.

First what is it!?
Well most of you have all ready done this before. It doesn't really take that much skill to do it. If you take your time you be somkin aces(?)

First copper pipe comes in different grades, like schedules of PVC. There is type M, L and K. Type M is thin and inexpensive. Type L is strong and
solders easily and finally type K, this is like Sch80 in PVC. It has a heavy wall, and is usually used underground.

There is all so flexible copper pipe, avabalel in type L and K, but you need a special spring that goes over it to bend it, so I would just stay with the rigid pipe.

There is also DWV copper pipe, but since the approve of PVC and ABS, it really isn't around any more, just like cast iron pipes.

Now for the steps-

First you need parts and tools, here is a list.
1.Copper pipe(type m, L, or K)
2.You fitting(s)
3.Tubing cutter(You can use a hack saw, or dremal also)
4. Propane torch. Or a acy torch.
5. Solder
6. Flux and a flux brush(ware gloves when using it, and don't get it on your skin)
7. Emery cloth or 400 grit sand paper
Image
Image

Now for the steps-
Step 1- Cutting the pipe
Take your pipe and measure the length you want it. Then take you cutting device and cut you pipe.

Step 2-Cleaning
Take you pipe and fitting and clean them of dirt, oil and other things. next take some emery cloth or 400grit sand paper and rub the end of the pipe. And then do the same for the fitting.

Step 3- Applying the paste.
Now take your paste and brush, and paste some on the end of the pipe, about 1'' down on the outside of the pipe. Then do the same thing on the inside of the fitting. Make sure that you evenly coat it on both.
Image
Image
And then after that, put the fittings together. Press it all the way to the bottom and turning it slightly so that it spreads out the paste.

Step 4- Getting ready to solder.
Now take you solder, and unwind it about 8" to 10" and then bend the first 2 or so inches sightly.
Image
Next take you heat source and turn it on adjusting the flame to were it is 1'' to 2'' long.
Image


Step 5-Soldering
Now what you want to do is hold the flame tip against the middle of your fitting for about 4-5 seconds, until the soldering paste starts to sizzle, then heat the other side of the fitting to ensure that the heat is evenly distributed.
Then touch the solder to the pipe and if it melts the joint is ready, if not just keep heating it.

Then once it is ready take the flame off and then press about 1/2'' to 3/4'' of solder in the joint. What happens is capillary action fills the joint with liquid solder.

The best way to tell if it has been done right, is if there is a bead of solder all the way around the fittings joint.
Image

Once you did that carefully wipe away extra solder with a dry rag, be care ful that you don't burn yourself.

And let it cool by its self and there you go. You have just soldered your copper pipe.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.
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Unread postAuthor: Velocity » Sun Mar 04, 2007 12:00 am

Nice tutorial. BTW, what type of heat source did you use for this? When I use propane on 3/4" fittings, it takes a lot longer than 5 seconds...
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Unread postAuthor: CpTn_lAw » Sun Mar 04, 2007 12:11 am

I've done Hot Brazing, what kinda difference is there between the two methods? mine looks like one and only pipe, the brazing was a solder+ phosphore one, and my propane torch had troubles getting the right temperature, even when heating the pipe and brass fiting to a bright red colour, the brazing would simply bend but not liquify until a few seconds of contact.
Still, i know a brazing is a lot more resistant than a soldering. A basic soldering has a pressure resistance of about 5-10 kg/mm^2
brazing has a pressure resistance of about 40-80 kg/mm^2
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Unread postAuthor: WOW!! » Sun Mar 04, 2007 12:29 am

I used a acetylene tank. But with propane it will take a little longer.

And I know what the difference between soldering and brazing is, but just to be sure I am right I will go check my welding book.
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Unread postAuthor: willarddaniels » Sun Mar 04, 2007 2:19 am

You can go up to 3/4" with propane. It is recommended, and a lot easier, to use MAPP or acetylene from 3/4" and up, they burn at a much higher temp.
Another great how-to, WOW. Very clean, easy to follow and dummy proof with all the great pics.
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Unread postAuthor: WOW!! » Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:14 am

Thanks Willarddaniels.

Dam I forgot to look at my book, ill do that later.
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