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$37AUD Hybrid

Built a hybrid cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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Unread postAuthor: TwitchTheAussie » Sun Jan 30, 2011 7:46 am

JSR pinching things from your workplace and "borrowing" from friends doesn't count sorry :P
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Unread postAuthor: linuxexorcist » Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:22 pm

alright let me rephrase that:
less than $50 for a medium bore hybrid? I think that's awesome.

Although, i think what really brings up the price of a hybrid is the metering system.

And being "resourceful" and pinching things from the lab is reasonable, there's a house under construction across the street from me and i'll admit i've helped myself to the scrap pile a few times
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Unread postAuthor: Crna Legija » Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:55 pm

lol i guy i know built his hole house on his farm from left over from other houses hes built.
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:27 pm

In regards to the barrel, if I had an old shotgun barrel around, I'd be using it for a project which puts 300 grams of lead downrange every second. I appreciate the input though.

Once I get off my rear end and finish it, fueling will be a large syringe (horse arse type), that will suffice for up to 10X mixes. That should only cost $2.

I spent another $5 on a 1/4 brass plug and 1/4 to 1/2 bushing for the shrader.

Would one trust a soldered joint holding a shrader, it's a hollow plug filled with solder?
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:35 pm

TwitchTheAussie wrote:JSR pinching things from your workplace and "borrowing" from friends doesn't count sorry :P


Fine, the stainless steel sections were offcuts from work, as were most of the threaded fittings, but still :P :D

fueling will be a large syringe (horse arse type)


Technically it's combustible gas under pressure, so a natural hybrid mix :D
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Unread postAuthor: linuxexorcist » Mon Jan 31, 2011 12:50 am

If you have access to a tap set, experiment a little, schraeder valves from bike tubes take well to a 1/4-28 NF thread in my experience:
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Soldering it should be fine, just make sure the hole is a tight fit, and remove your valve core so you don't melt it
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Mon Jan 31, 2011 4:28 am

linuxexorcist wrote:Soldering it should be fine, just make sure the hole is a tight fit, and remove your valve core so you don't melt it


Same with proper epoxy, proven up to at least 28x ;)
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:32 pm

I looked into tapping, I only had access to metric tap & die set which didn't have the appropriate size.

I drilled the hole 0.5mm too small then turned down the shrader in a drillpress with steel wool.

I'm revising what mix I'll run it at, 10X is looking good at the moment.

Also I used epoxy in the spark gap, it was going to be the shrader but it leaked, now it seals perfectly.
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Unread postAuthor: ramses » Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:48 pm

Zeus wrote:
I drilled the hole 0.5mm too small then turned down the shrader in a drillpress with steel wool.



:shock: :shock:

How many hours did you spend doing that? Next time, I recommend a file or coarse sandpaper.
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:14 am

0.5mm of brass goes away fairly quickly at high speeds, I was holding the steel wool on the shrader with pliers so it ground down quite fast.

I did it initially to remove the rubber completely so the solder took properly but it worked well so I kept at it.
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Unread postAuthor: Crna Legija » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:45 am

what are you using as a spark plug, if you go out and buy a NGK CR10EK spark plug(used in dirt bikes) the threads on it fit perfectly with a 1/8'' npt tap.
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:18 pm

I'll look for those, it should fit into a 1/4 to 1/8 bushing and seal better than my other options.

Just need a 1/4 ball valve so I can get rid of the big mofo 1/2 I'm using for testing.
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