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tough steel

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tough steel

Unread postAuthor: SpudFarm » Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:47 pm

i am planing on doing more shots at the plate that caused the ricochet damage "fork ricochets!"

so i am going to take a trip to the local machining shop and get some steel rod, the problem is that i don't really know what i should ask for..

i am thinking about stainless steel but i also consider hardened..

just throw up you choise and why i should take it.

(tungsten carbide would not be an option)

also it has to be something i will be able to weld on
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Unread postAuthor: Hubb » Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:51 pm

DYI, I believe, had some hardened steel darts when he busted steel. There was a topic somewhere.

He should be able to help, either by searching for his topic or sending a PM.
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Unread postAuthor: marpat » Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:53 pm

why isnt tungsten carbide an option ?
just take a router bit and cut off the tip leaving a few cms of steel left so you dont actually need to weld the carbide just the tool steel to an object of your choice

if thats not an option #303 stainless should be fine just fine hardened
then you can grind it down and lube it up for max penetration
a design like larda's sabot dart would be ideal for launching
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:01 pm

I will suggest going with a "high" carbon steel

Grind it into shape. And then it will have to be hardened.

To harden it (quick and dirty method), heat to a "dull red" and hold it there for 5 minutes.

Quench it in BRINE (VERY salty water).

Plunge it in and SWIRL it around. This will keep bubbles which are forming on the surface from insulating the steel.

Either try it in this VERY hard condition, or temper it next.

To temper (quick and dirty), heat gently until the steel takes on a straw colour. Then plunge in fresh water, again swirl it around.

Just my .02 :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: SpudFarm » Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:37 am

thanks for the replies :)

i will look for some stainless and make a few darts with different hardness, and one with a tig electrode for the tip :P

more options needed
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Sun Aug 24, 2008 2:58 pm

Don't use stainless steel.

I think you would be best suited by W grade tool steel. Low or medium carbon. High carbon would likely be too brittle for your application. DYI put a low carbon tool steel center punch cleanly through a normalized steel plate, which proves that extreme hardness is not required. You need a good compromise between hardness and toughness.
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Unread postAuthor: Ragnarok » Sun Aug 24, 2008 3:00 pm

SpudBlaster15 wrote:You need a good compromise between hardness and toughness.

Case hardened steel would be appealing. Hard surface, but tougher core.

I'm planning on trying it sometime.
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Unread postAuthor: Hotwired » Sun Aug 24, 2008 3:06 pm

Funny that, same thing crossed my mind when I read the thread but I thought it might be a bit much.
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Unread postAuthor: The Engineer » Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:02 pm

My friend has done some testng with different materials, and from his conclusions, I would suggest a medium carbon steel with a lead core. This way it won't be to soft or brittle on the outside, but will still have a really heavy mass for the most momentum, which means more penetration.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudFarm » Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:48 pm

i can get tool steel..

sb: but the plate i am going to shoot at is 1/2" of stainless and 1/2" of hardened, the last shot on it went through the stainless and did not leave a mark vissible to the naked eye on the hardened..

http://www.clasohlson.no/Archive/Images ... 074408.jpg

would the one the longest down work?
the cheapest option for one of those is Cr-V steel

engineer: just make the thing longer
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Unread postAuthor: The Engineer » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:03 pm

ah, good point. In the gun he tested, the length of a shot was an issue. I didn't think about the length being a factor in this gun. Yes, making it longer would be better.
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