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Hybrid ThorJack

Post questions and info about hybrid (compressed gas with fuel) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about fuels, ratios, ignition systems, build types, safety, and anything else relevant.
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:14 am

For the barrel I put a simple retention of projectile.

I thought black spots had appeared on a shot!

Why you take the cone? seal? you should still put some Loctite ... and with a straight connector, it looks better ...

lol for schemas! great minds think alike!
:D
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:03 pm

Thorjack new configuration:

Quick coupling of paint, removing the flexible and the valve was good for testing but bulky and difficult to put in the Thorjack:
Image

For the barrel, also changes, I removed the quick coupling for connecting to an easier to use when reloading and disc replacement rupture.De more of this system avoids the muzzleloader and prevents the projectile falls with a flat seal, the connection left screwed directly to the barrel.

Image

Image

And finally change the meter at the top the flexible that connects to the quick coupling of the chamber:

Image
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:16 pm

Ah, it looks much better! No more superglue :D

I'm worried though that the connection is unsafe, particularly the copper (at least it looks like copper) shoulder, I wouldn't be surprised if this sheared off at high mixes. This is under a lot of stress when firing and I don't think this part can take it.
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:27 am

Only the edges of the shoulder have a maximum of 40 bar and when firing, once the disk broke all the pressure will push the bullet without making significant efforts on the shoulder as the bullet is maintained but not very tight ...
Last, I have a doubt now .... :?

EDIT :I made this shoulder system to reload without removing the barrel.
the barrel linearly advance
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:54 am

Petitlu wrote:Only the edges of the shoulder have a maximum of 40 bar and when firing, once the disk broke all the pressure will push the bullet without making significant efforts on the shoulder as the bullet is maintained but not very tight ...


Before the disk breaks, all the pressure will be on this shoulder. Ok, it's for a very short period of time, but that doesn't mean it can't fail.

I haven't sent your package yet, perhaps I can make you a stronger one out of brass?
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Tue Apr 17, 2012 1:04 am

it is a weak point is on ...

I thank you but does not manufacture the shoulder.
there are two shoulders, one has the right and one left, and nuts in the middle ...
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Tue Apr 17, 2012 1:28 am

Why don't you get rid of the copper piece and just use a brass or galv union?
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Tue Apr 17, 2012 1:31 am

I just had an idea, to the shoulder with a brass nozzle ...

EDIT :oh yeah ... but you need a good surface for the seal and disc
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Tue Apr 17, 2012 1:39 am

Petitlu wrote:EDIT :oh yeah ... but you need a good surface for the seal and disc
You can always modify the union to get a good surface for the seal. The modified union part below should be attached to the barrel so the disk has a greater surface area to be held against:
Image
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Tue Apr 17, 2012 1:56 am

Petitlu wrote:there are two shoulders, one has the right and one left, and nuts in the middle ...


Right, you would need a way to get the nuts on.

For what it's worth, this is the system I'm using at the moment, though I haven't exceeded 20x with this one.

Image

The barrel above was rather stupidly made with a PVC shoulder, which ripped off on firing at 15x. For the 75SD I'm using an acetal/delrin shoulder.
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Tue Apr 17, 2012 2:08 am

I just finished the brass nozzle with lime but I am not satisfied ...
Iwill go and see this morning if I find this type of coupling ...
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Unread postAuthor: CpTn_lAw » Tue Apr 17, 2012 4:13 am

Okay , let me contribute :
I took advice from MrCrowley on the male part (well, i don't have an angle grinder so i hand-sawed the tapered part roughly and then ground it with the dremel.) BUT , I also did another thing.
I took a 16mm copper pipe, slide it through the female part (and greased it with silicon) and then I poured some epoxy until It was level. to get something like this :
Image

I added a fiber joint to the flat male* part to make better contact and resist the repeated heat exposure.






* JSR : This topic doesn't refer to actual flat males. This is strictly "plumbing" parts discussion. :D
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Tue Apr 17, 2012 5:11 am

CpTn_lAw wrote:and then I poured some epoxy


FTW!

It's how every good story starts hehe

:D

This topic doesn't refer to actual flat males.


Thanks for clarifying, though even this could be horribly misinterpreted by those with sufficiently dirty minds:

This is strictly "plumbing" parts discussion.


:)
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Unread postAuthor: CpTn_lAw » Tue Apr 17, 2012 5:16 am

I was sure clarifying would do you no good, because your mind is sooooo dirty... it could actually put new metaphores in your mind...
Still, back on topic, this method has never failed on me.
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Tue Apr 17, 2012 5:20 am

Thank you for joining!

I went to the store, I have not found it necessary fittings.
So I took the coupling of PER, reduced PER and I drilled, filed and soldered, and here is the result!

Image

Image

Image
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