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Any way to remove/unglue a fitting?

Post about things you have launched or thought about launching. Also post about various materials used for building cannons. No posts about explosive projectiles!
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Unread postAuthor: MetalMSTR » Mon Nov 12, 2007 3:23 pm

once time i accidentaly broken the fem adapter of my cannon and then y removed the broken part with a litle saw and a lighter heating antwistinh in parts the pipe joined to the reduction (inside) and it works very well
how says " segueta" in english?
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Unread postAuthor: Maniac » Mon Nov 12, 2007 3:54 pm

did you say you heated your pipe because that is very dangerous heating the pipe releases harmful chemicals that cause cancer and it also weakens the pvc
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Mon Nov 12, 2007 4:12 pm

Why do you stick to PCV or ABS as a construction material ??
The easiest way is to use threded steel and brass fittings. When I buy something I can use it later in my next projects. Leaks are not any problem when u know how to use o-rings, a PTFE tape or an insulating tape ( surprisingly it works better than PTFE ).
Cutting threads on a pipe might be the only problem if you don't have that machine that is used to do it (Anyone knows what is it called in english, becasue it isn't something that you can find in most dictionaries ? ) but most hardware shops sell pipes already threaded. Metal is obviously higher pressure rated.

And last but not least - steel and brass are also more enviromental friendly than PCV or ABS :D
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Unread postAuthor: PVC Arsenal 17 » Mon Nov 12, 2007 4:29 pm

^Good points, but PVC and other plastics are very workable (ex. using lathe for custom fittings, muzzle knives, pistons, etc.)
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Unread postAuthor: Maniac » Mon Nov 12, 2007 4:36 pm

yes metal also is harder to work with its not to costomizeable either. ie their arent too many fittings for it
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Unread postAuthor: DYI » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:01 pm

Well, lathes work just as well on metal as they do on plastic. I like metal more because it's stronger, and more available here. And any fitting that is available in plastic is available in steel. If anything, there are more steel fittings than plastic ones.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:12 pm

well, fittings are limmited to certain sizes - 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 2" and so on, but there are metric sizes as well ( although difficult to find and more expensive ).There are different reducing couplings and reducing nipples for any possible size. Once u buy one you can use it indefinitely.
I have big crate full of steel and brass fittings in my basement - ranging from 1/2" to 3" in size so I know what what i am saying. Spudguns made from metal are modular - I can assemble something, check how well it works and then rearange that if I want to. If you build spudguns <= 3/4", there is no better material than steel
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Unread postAuthor: DYI » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:17 pm

Steel pipe is only available up to 2.5" here. In any size from 1/4" to 2", I can get: Pipe, nipples, elbows, tees, valves, crosses, unions, flanges, couplings, bushings, reducing couplings, hose barbs, and various other things. Not exactly low availability. In a city close to here, I can get rigid hydraulic tube and fittings up to at least 1.5", probably more.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:29 pm

Yeah but you must admit that gun with a decent barrel and chamber made from 2" fittings and pipes can't be fully regarded as being man-portable.:D

1/2 and 3/4" are optimal sizes for a full-steel gun.
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Unread postAuthor: MetalMSTR » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:37 pm

do not overheat just enough for the glue thats jois the parts get a litle soft to remove it with a screwer later i will draw how
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