Login    Register
User Information
Username:
Password:
We are a free and open
community, all are welcome.
Click here to Register
Sponsored
Who is online

In total there are 70 users online :: 5 registered, 0 hidden and 65 guests


Most users ever online was 218 on Wed Dec 07, 2016 6:58 pm

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Exabot [Bot], Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], Yahoo [Bot] based on users active over the past 5 minutes

The Team
Administrators
Global Moderators
global_moderators.png CS

Sprinkler Solenoid Hole Plug

Post about things you have launched or thought about launching. Also post about various materials used for building cannons. No posts about explosive projectiles!
Sponsored 
  • Author
    Message

Sprinkler Solenoid Hole Plug

Unread postAuthor: Erlex » Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:46 pm

I had made an awesome pneumatic gun that shot paint balls (paint ball sniper if you will) with a 1" Rainbird sprinkler valve, exactly like the one on the video tutorial on this forum. It had already gone through two sprinkler valves before I figured out how they work enough not to break them in the process of modding them. I followed the tutorial exactly, and when the gun was finished there was a massive leak out where I had plugged the solenoid hole with epoxy puddy. I got one shot out of it at 40 PSI. After multiple tries to plug it, to no avale, I had to give up and scrap the whole gun. What should I have used to plug the hole? I obviously did something very wrong because I have never heard of anyone having the same problem.

This is the video if you don't know what I am talking about-> http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-796409484083435419&q=mod+sprinkler&total=3&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=0
  • 0

User avatar
Erlex
Private
Private
 
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:38 am
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: mopherman » Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:48 pm

Did you fill it completely with epoxie? There is ecualy 2 hoes in the solenoid place that need to be filled. Maybe next time you could just leave the solenoid in?
  • 0

searching for a modern day savior from another place,inclined toward charity,everyone's begging for an answer,without regard to validity,the searching never ends,it goes on and on for eternity
-Bad religion
User avatar
mopherman
Brigadier General
Brigadier General
 
Posts: 788
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 8:20 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: Erlex » Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:52 pm

Yeah, I filled it completely full and more. There was epoxy everywhere (yes, in my hair as well, not fun) I probably just should of left that d*mn solenoid in. But it was too late on the other valve because then it would have gotten in the way of my trigger.
  • 0

User avatar
Erlex
Private
Private
 
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:38 am
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: LikimysCrotchus5 » Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:53 pm

Its better to epoxy it, then let it dry and it should be good.

EDIT: Try using plumbers epoxy and let it harden well for a day (24hrs) or longer.
  • 0

4SPC, My 4" piston 3" porting cannon
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
User avatar
LikimysCrotchus5
Brigadier General
Brigadier General
 
Posts: 1100
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:16 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: Erlex » Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:59 pm

So what your saying is that 5 hours is not a safe wait time?
  • 0

User avatar
Erlex
Private
Private
 
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:38 am
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: BigJon » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:00 pm

Open the valve up and find the pilot hole on the inside (it should be really tiny) and fill that small hole with super glue. I had this happening with my sprinkler valve once and it worked because the epoxy i used was so thick that it fill the pilot hole completely.
  • 0

User avatar
BigJon
Staff Sergeant
Staff Sergeant
 
Posts: 120
Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 12:21 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: Erlex » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:15 pm

The problem was not my ability to find the pilot hole, it was finding a material strong enough to plug it.
  • 0

User avatar
Erlex
Private
Private
 
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:38 am
Reputation: 0

Sponsored

Sponsor
 


Unread postAuthor: BigJon » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:21 pm

Ok but what type of epoxy are you using?
  • 0

User avatar
BigJon
Staff Sergeant
Staff Sergeant
 
Posts: 120
Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 12:21 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: Erlex » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:26 pm

Its a putty that is meant for repairing leaks in PVC. Not sure if it is rated for pressure. The guy at home depot told me it should work! :roll:
  • 0

User avatar
Erlex
Private
Private
 
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:38 am
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: mopherman » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:28 pm

Erlex wrote:Its a putty that is meant for repairing leaks in PVC. Not sure if it is rated for pressure. The guy at home depot told me it should work! :roll:

Fist rule of spudgunnery: The dudes at home depot may know how to finish your deck, but they know nothing of spudgun construction materials.
  • 0

searching for a modern day savior from another place,inclined toward charity,everyone's begging for an answer,without regard to validity,the searching never ends,it goes on and on for eternity
-Bad religion
User avatar
mopherman
Brigadier General
Brigadier General
 
Posts: 788
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 8:20 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: Ragnarok » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:14 pm

That's the FIRST rule. The fist rule is you punch the dude that follows you round because he thinks you're nicking fittings for an illegal artillery piece.

@Erlex: No, 5 hours is not sufficient. In general, if it's going to be holding pressure, you need to wait at least a full day ...

... unless you're like me and you use soldered copper - then just waiting a mere 10 minutes for the solder to cool is fine.
In short, if it's a metal joint, 10 minutes cooling is fine. Plastic joints and glues need a lot longer.
  • 0

Does that thing kinda look like a big cat to you?
User avatar
Ragnarok
Chief of Staff
Chief of Staff
 
Posts: 5339
Joined: Tue Dec 19, 2006 8:23 am
Location: The UK
Reputation: 8

Unread postAuthor: grumpy » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:33 pm

this is what you need, in home depo in the paint section they have an isle with all the glue and you will find this it works very well. even though it says 5 minute you should still let it cure 24 hrs.
  • 0

Attachments
sub-0498-02.jpg
sub-0498-02.jpg (39.15 KiB) Viewed 903 times
Last edited by grumpy on Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.

grumpy
Captain
Captain
 
Posts: 331
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 7:48 am
Location: tampa,fla.
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:36 pm

Try some JB weld, leave it for at least a full day.

Side note:

It recommends 24 hours, but i've always had a small leak occur after 24 hours, so now I leave it for 3 days and I haven't had a problem since.
  • 0

User avatar
MrCrowley
Moderator
Moderator
 
Posts: 10207
Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2006 10:42 pm
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Country: New Zealand (nz)
Reputation: 4

Unread postAuthor: Erlex » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:50 pm

Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone. :D
  • 0

User avatar
Erlex
Private
Private
 
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:38 am
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: BigGrib » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:55 pm

personally i prefer the loctite 5 minute set because one side is clear and one side is yellow and i can tell if the portions are equal
  • 0

Yea, that's definitely going to get you at least a tazer.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkMkGOpAF4s">DONT TAZE ME BRO.. DONT TAZE ME... AHHHH</a>
facebook.com/biggrib
User avatar
BigGrib
Colonel
Colonel
 
Posts: 652
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:43 pm
Location: TriCities, WA
Reputation: 0

Next

Return to Construction Materials/Ammo Discussion

Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Exabot [Bot], Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], Yahoo [Bot]

Reputation System ©'