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purchasing a threaded schrader valve

Post about things you have launched or thought about launching. Also post about various materials used for building cannons. No posts about explosive projectiles!
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purchasing a threaded schrader valve

Unread postAuthor: joe912 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 6:27 pm

where locally could i purchase a threaded schader valve i was looking at an auto store but could not find anything.

also is this a good sprinkler valve
http://www.homedepot.com/
and enter in 162344 in the search

this is for my first pneumatic, what is a good size pipe for a bike pump to pump up.
how long would it take, approxamately, for a bike pump to pump up a chamber 1.5 inches by like a foot or 2
thanks for the help guys
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Unread postAuthor: JustinMeisse » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:00 pm

I picked this up at Lowes
ProPlumber 1/8" Air Valve

You can also buy a push in tire valve at any car parts store, cut the fat bulb part off the end, and squeeze 1/4" ID tubing over it (I had to stick my tube in boiling water to soften it first). I'm not sure how safe this is at high pressures, I found out about it in an soda bottle rocket how-to where it is pumped to about 70psi. It would be handy if you wanted to hide behind cover while you pump and fire a pneumatic cannon.

I'm a newbie myself so I can't help you with your other questions.
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Unread postAuthor: Shrimphead » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:17 pm

Why a threaded shrader valve? Like Justin said, why don't you just get a push in valve at a car store? (I wouldn't cut the bottom off though) All you have to do is drill a hole in your chamber the size of the valve (be careful not to drill it too big) then pull it through. It takes some force to pull it through, but it should be easier than threading a hole in your chamber.

And about that sprinkler valve. That valve has a guide rod and I had trouble finding a way to drill the hole for the blowgun (if you are planning to mod it). Just try and find an Orbit Watermaster 1" (the same model as in the modding tutorial just a size up) They don't have guide rods.
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Unread postAuthor: joe912 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:19 pm

yea except i dont have a lowes in the area. so that sucks

and where would you find them in home depot cause their website sort of sucks
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Unread postAuthor: joe912 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:30 pm

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Unread postAuthor: Shrimphead » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:34 pm

Exactly. They are very easy and make a great seal. If the package doesn't tell you what size hole you need, then measure it. And start with a small hole because if you drill the hole too big then you have to epoxy it in. That's what happened to me.
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Unread postAuthor: nabu92 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:02 pm

r those plastic tire valves?... If they are, I suggest u use the ones with a metal neck because my plastic ones broke. :lol:
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Unread postAuthor: Shrimphead » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:03 pm

The ones that I have like that are made of rubber and they've held up just fine so far.
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:07 pm

plz use the metal threaded ones, just cuz they are safer, get them from the water pump isle, the cap on the ones i use has a little tool on the tip so you can remove the stem

instead of drilling a hole in your air chamber, have a bushing or two to reduce the thread size to 1/8" so the schrader screws right in, thus easy to replace.
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Unread postAuthor: nabu92 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:11 pm

rubbers r good...Im just sayin, the crappy plastic ones crack after a while...they're kinda hard 2 find cuz no one makes them out of plastic anymore.....o yea....do u think if i cut up my *cough* sister's *cough* bike tire, i could take out the tire valve? or r they glued in? :D :lol: :D
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Unread postAuthor: Shrimphead » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:14 pm

The valve is attached to the whole tube, but it is possible to cut it out (leaving some of the rubber tube around it) and gluing it into the chamber. The problem is that it's not as easy to get a good seal, and they can't be removed easily once they are glued in.
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Unread postAuthor: nabu92 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:14 pm

k, thanks shrimphead

if u use a brushing to reduce the size of the valve threads, wont the chamber take longer to fill?
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:59 pm

nabu92 wrote:k, thanks shrimphead

if u use a brushing to reduce the size of the valve threads, wont the chamber take longer to fill?


i dont see why it would take longer...
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Unread postAuthor: nabu92 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:24 pm

oh, never mind, i get it
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Unread postAuthor: nicholai » Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:38 am

nabu92 wrote:k, thanks shrimphead

if u use a brushing to reduce the size of the valve threads, wont the chamber take longer to fill?


lol.

it will fill the same because you are not reducing the size of the hole you are making it bigger.

the bushing makes the threaded hole on the potato gun bigger , while it maintains threads on the inside of it (same as the outside of schrader valve). Metal threaded into plastic is not safe to screw in and out a bunch of times so using a reducing bushing made of brass or steel makes the friction point a metal to metal contact, not metal to plastic which will eventually get stripped out

the picture should help you understand this. the bushing he's talking about is on the right hand side, notice the threads inside and outside the fitting. the elbow on the left would make it fill faster if the valve was screwed into the bigger threaded piece and the smaller threads were screwed into the chamber because it would reduce the flow of volume
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