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compressor check valve

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compressor check valve

Unread postAuthor: roughboy » Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:37 am

Do i really need to put a check valve, ball valve, pressure gauage on a fridge or air condition compressor?
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:50 am

It depends on where your talking about? In one area it will help build pressure, in another it will keep you from building to much.
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:44 pm

Check valve: No.
Ball valve: You need a bleed valve to get the pressure of your line if you want to disconnect the quickdisconnect. On high pressures you cannot detach a QD, and even if you manage to, you are ruining the QD.
A ballvalve can do this job.
Pressure gauge: Highly advisable. You will need to know how much pressure it is putting out dont you?
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Unread postAuthor: roughboy » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:55 pm

[img][img]http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5512/73381710.png[/img]

Is this setup right or do i have to change something?
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Unread postAuthor: ramses » Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:28 pm

no, this is better. I would use quick connects instead of schrader.
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Unread postAuthor: roughboy » Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:38 pm

why quick connects instead a schrader valve?
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Unread postAuthor: ramses » Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:01 pm

I have seen them used to higher pressures more often, so I conclude that they would be less likely to fail, especially if you use salvaged male schrader valves from tires or something.

also, make sure the hose is rated above you max operating pressure.
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:47 pm

You can use a shrader, but I had a lot of shrader chucks that leaked. Quick connects seal better and work fine on high pressures. You just need to bleed off pressure before disconnecting, thats all.

Ramses is right about the ballvalve placement.
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:40 pm

If you want to use a schrader, I'll recommend getting one of these;

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/l ... seneck.php

It threads on to the schrader valve, and is rated to 3000psi.

For the record...a schrader valve that threads in, has been tested to 10 000psi, by me. It cut the seal, but did not otherwise fail.

At 4350psi, it didn't even cut the seal. (300bar)
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Unread postAuthor: roughboy » Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:30 pm

Ramses's design is good i know but i want to change the design so is this good or should i change something?

Image

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Last edited by roughboy on Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:55 pm

@roughboy
so does it work with a starting relay ??


this design is better as there are two 'out going' ports - one for a bleed valve/ball valve and one for the air hose...

once you have time to improve your setup you can add one more T to get one more port for an air tank ( it's a really useful addition - just make sure it is rated high enough)


I know that psycix told you that before but it's worth stressing -> use quick connect fitings... it's easier to get a good QC fittings than shraders... and it makes life easier in the long run

there are QC fittings that are specifically designed to work with higher pressures - but you can use normal ones
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Unread postAuthor: inonickname » Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:59 pm

I repeatably use schraders to 300-400 psi routinely, but they are clean, unused and brand new. Air chucks are rubbish, so if you're using schraders you need a screw on connection such as in shock pumps. Quick disconnects are the best in my opinion.
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