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Kato/Fimo polyclay???

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Kato/Fimo polyclay???

Unread postAuthor: jeepkahn » Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:10 pm

I know Mr.Epoxy(jsr) and a few others have used polymorph and other heat to soften clays/media, but have any oif you used the bake to harden clays like fimo/premo/kato, where they are pliable but can be oven cured to harden, supposedly to the consistency/durabilty of pvc...

I'm looking at using it to make pistol grips, sights, possibly projectiles, pistons, etc...

Would like some feedback, before I go buy it this evening...
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Unread postAuthor: spud downunder » Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:54 pm

i dont know much about it myself, but i do know that it is very good for making slingshot handles. so for pistol grips it should do good
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Unread postAuthor: Techie » Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:20 pm

you could use pvc sheets, unless you already have the polymorph.
If you warm pvc up(dont burn it dear gosh) and it will flex and hold its shape very well.
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:40 pm

Jeep...Have you given any thought to using Bondo?
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Unread postAuthor: jamie e » Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:41 am

I've used fimo for a grip before and it looked really good at first but after using it a bit a few cracks formed and eventually fell appart.
This might be because i baked it too long or not long enough.
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Unread postAuthor: jeepkahn » Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:46 am

I've used bondo for some stuff and it works ok, and to correct techie, Fimo is not like polymorph, polymorph is hard at room temp and softens with heat, kato/fimo is soft at room temp but you bake it to cure it into a hard plastic(it's basically plasticized pvc that you cook the plasticizer out of it, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_clay )... It's basically the same thing as "bakelite"... It has no clay in it(just the consistency of clay, hence the name)...

If cured properly(not too hot or too long) it is supposed to be about like a solid piece of pvc.... Also, It doesn't shrink
"Traditional polymer clay hardens by curing at temperatures created in a typical home oven, generally at 265 to 275 °F (129 to 135 °C), for 15 minutes per 1/4" (6 mm) of thickness, and does not shrink or change texture during the process. When properly conditioned and cured, most clays create items that will not break if dropped or normally stressed."


I figure if it works, it would be a great way to improve the aesthetics of cannons and a good way to prototype projectiles and use the finished prototypes as "investments" for lostwax or foamcasting... Not to mention a possible materiel for pistons...
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Unread postAuthor: inonickname » Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:32 am

I've used fimo. I took some time and worked it until it was nice and consistent. It comes out nice and smooth, and rather hard. It needs some support or it will crack and break, but it comes out quit nicely.

I'd say it wouldnt be suitable to make a piston from.
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