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Machined pengun - Dimply

Discuss miniature cannons built from things such as pill bottles and pen caps.
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:36 am

Woo!

Can we see how they look on the body?
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:52 am

Your Wish Is My Command :D
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:57 am

Merveilleux!

It's going to look amazing finished!

In the meantime, I have suffered a minor setback with mine, one of the o-rings tore and I don't have a replacement in stock, visiting a couple of hardware stores didn't turn up any of the same size so I have some digging around to do because I don't want to go down the thread tape/epoxy route with this one!
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Unread postAuthor: saefroch » Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:20 am

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:I don't have a replacement in stock
*gasp* That's why you buy them in bags of 50 from McMaster!
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Unread postAuthor: dewey-1 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:40 am

LeMaudit;

What is the flange height on the nose piece? 1 mm maybe?
Also ball cutter radius?

Would cut depth be now .65 not .30 as shown in picture?

Updating 3D model for you!

Why did you not do the same thing on the valve end?
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:58 am

I knew this little change would attract you dewey-1 :lol:
Thanks for taking care of updating the 3D, I didn't want to bother for mere details :wink:
Damn... that means I will need to update my 3D too...

The end mill I used is a 1/8" ball.
The nose flats separation is 0.486". The end mill was raised 0.5mm to keep the round border.
The valve plug flats separation is 0.500"

I didn't do the same on the valve plug because I wanted a large surface to easily insert a wrench without risking to dent the rounded part and ruin the finish. The nose is not supposed to be removed as often so it's not a problem. Also, having it round and flush on the side of the body's edge, but not on the cap's edge looked awkward to me.

Thanks!
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Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:43 am

Looking good! Is the barrel being inserted and then the testing?
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:45 am

After some judicious application of heat, managed to get the barrel off :) nose is a bit blackened but I'll give it a whirl and a polish when it cools down.

Ready to practice some more milling :)
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:57 am

black is not bad, you'll see better how much off-center the nose is regarding the tube when you cut just a bit, and compensate the milling position.

If you are lucky, the nose will be perfectly centered. :lol: I had a +0.2mm error.
You can check that first visually, by installing the chuck in the head and rotate slowly looking against a contrasting background (a white sheet of paper in your case?)

You could also possibly try to reduce the error with teflon tape maybe?

Remember you can mount the chuck on the head, even in milling mode.

Be very careful that the piece is well tighten in the tube, or the cutting force on the side when you'll mill will unscrew it and ruin it!
Lastly, don't cut more than 0.1 mm at a time, for the same reason.

Good luck!
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Thu Jul 07, 2011 11:26 am

LeMaudit wrote:a contrasting background (a white sheet of paper in your case?)


:P

Just watched the video, I like your extensive use of yakety sax :D

Good luck!


Cheers!

Time to mount the mill :)
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Thu Jul 07, 2011 11:39 am

I like your extensive use of yakety sax


It will never be as good as Benny Hill show :lol:

One last advise. I cut in the video on a reverse direction. It would have been much better to start with the piece in front of the end mill, and moved to the back so the cutting force push against the movement. That's the proper way.

But, I had to find a compromise because the force that could unscrew the piece are lower that way. On the other way, you could have a kick back from the piece, because the mill will try to grab it, and you have some play in the leadscrew using it like that.

Again, very light cut to minimize this "kick-back" force.

It is important to understand that, it's basic milling. I'll explain again if necessary.

Or, glue it with some cyanocrylate/super glue, it dissolves very well with heating :wink:
Serious, I would have done it if I had thought about that before!
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:56 pm

Nose done, it wasn't concentric and I seem to have corrected adequately. I don't understand how you measured the correction required though, I took the first cut to be zero and eyeballed the rest.
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Thu Jul 07, 2011 4:09 pm

Yooohooo!
Great job! And good cleaning too!!

How I did it.... hmmm.. let me remember.... eyeballed :lol:

Seriously, all I did is turn the wheel until it touched the flat on the closest (the smallest cut surface, which was at 0° position by pure chance), then at 180° I noted the difference, which was 0.2mm.
I could have explain that part better :? but then, most of the video would have been in fast forward 10x to keep inside the 15mn YouTube limit!
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:32 pm

LeMaudit wrote:Great job! And good cleaning too!


Cheers :)

How I did it.... hmmm.. let me remember.... eyeballed :lol:


:shock:

Thanks, I feel much better about it now!

Seriously, all I did is turn the wheel until it touched the flat on the closest (the smallest cut surface, which was at 0° position by pure chance), then at 180° I noted the difference, which was 0.2mm.


That's almost exactly what I did, except I went for the largest cut as the zero. Nice.
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:40 am

Endcap done, mostly eyeballing but it turned out well :) I didn't leave a round edge but it shouldn't compromise sealing *crosses appendages*
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