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Spark Gap System

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Spark Gap System

Unread postAuthor: STHORNE » Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:00 pm

hello fellow spudders!

I made a spark gap system that will be running off a 100k volt stun gun (which i have yet to buy from bcarms) and was wondering if the system would work at 1x fuel mixture. Its for an advanced combustion so I don't plan on taking it past 1x...

the gaps are 1/8" apart (each) to the nearest mm.
I also grinded the ends to points for better conductivity.

I used 3" pvc but with the bolt heads on the outside, it fits snugly into a 4" chamber. Hope ya'll can help.

thanks in advance,
STHORNE
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Here is a diagram of how i plan to wire the system.
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sparkgapspic.JPG
picture of the actual system
sparkgapspic.JPG (37.91 KiB) Viewed 427 times
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Unread postAuthor: DYI » Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:14 pm

You'll only get one spark out of that system, as electric currents follow the path of least resistance. In this case, it should spark between the rightmost point, and the one beside it, unless the gap lengths are off.
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Unread postAuthor: STHORNE » Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:18 pm

ok...i got another pic for you that i think might work...hang on...
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Unread postAuthor: STHORNE » Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:21 pm

all being the same length in wire....
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Unread postAuthor: DYI » Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:26 pm

One wire will ALWAYS be shorter than the other, and a current can only follow one path at a time. The gaps have to be in series to work properly.
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Unread postAuthor: STHORNE » Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:27 pm

oh, ok...i think i got it...

got it...

1) would have to work unless the total distance between all bolts is too much.

2) I'm pretty sure it would work (or atleast one side would)
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Unread postAuthor: STHORNE » Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:56 pm

sorry, double post...

DYI? got any feedback? i'm going to bed in a couple, been a rough day, so...
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Unread postAuthor: DYI » Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:46 pm

#1 will work, and one half of #2 will work.
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:58 pm

since the tips are sharp, theylle corrode sooner or later, making the gap too big.
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Unread postAuthor: pizlo » Thu Apr 17, 2008 11:02 pm

Even if it Doesn't work it sure is pretty.
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Unread postAuthor: starman » Thu Apr 17, 2008 11:17 pm

The setup is flawed from the start. You would be better off taking the 3 in the middle out and just bringing the 2 outside points closer together with longer screws.

The other option is to take the middle one out and connect the 2 remaining middle screws together and the spark source connected to the outside screws. That would give you 2 spark gaps in series with each other. However, it would then be best to move the second gap down further into the chamber, splitting the chamber into thirds with the 2 gaps being the dividers.

Also, the big washer stacks aren't necessary unless you just like how they look.
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:33 am

Whats the function of having multiple spark gaps at the same point?
Well, nothing besides it may look cooler.
Just use a set of two screws and another set further up ahead in the chamber.
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Unread postAuthor: rcman50166 » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:25 am

This seems like a good thread for me to help on. These knids of spark gaps are used on tesla coils alot. There is no real benefit to having multiple gaps set up the way you do. The only reason tesla coils have it is so the gap doesn't power arc due to a build up of corona and ozone. A greater surface area is easier to "quench" with a fan making it possible to fire a spark gap at higher frequencies. Another use, which I want to try myself in the future is remote triggering. Remote triggering uses a HV trigger circuit to add to the ignition circuit making a HV jump on cue. I'll put up a diagram to show what I mean by this. But, essentially, having a gap setup like that doesn't benifit much from only one power source, if any.
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This is the remote trigger circuit. (A crude one anyway.) The trigger could be something like a bbq ignitor or a camera flash circuit. The ignition circuit can be any continuous HV source as long as it can't jump the distance alone.
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Unread postAuthor: STHORNE » Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:14 pm

starman wrote:The setup is flawed from the start. You would be better off taking the 3 in the middle out and just bringing the 2 outside points closer together with longer screws.

The other option is to take the middle one out and connect the 2 remaining middle screws together and the spark source connected to the outside screws. That would give you 2 spark gaps in series with each other. However, it would then be best to move the second gap down further into the chamber, splitting the chamber into thirds with the 2 gaps being the dividers.

Also, the big washer stacks aren't necessary unless you just like how they look.


1. I would but these were the only bolts durable enough for the job available and were a wee bit short, so to improve reliability, i set up 5 close together instead of 2 far apart...

2. I was actually thinking about that but what would be the point of multiple sparks in the same spot? I plan on making another unit and spacing them about 6 inches apart, having a total of 8 spark gaps throughout the chamber.

3. The threads on the bolt don't go all the way to the head, so to guarantee a tight fit, i had to add washers to the assembly.
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psycix wrote:Whats the function of having multiple spark gaps at the same point?
Well, nothing besides it may look cooler.
Just use a set of two screws and another set further up ahead in the chamber.


Answer = #1 in previous response
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rcman50166 wrote:This seems like a good thread for me to help on. These knids of spark gaps are used on tesla coils alot. There is no real benefit to having multiple gaps set up the way you do. The only reason tesla coils have it is so the gap doesn't power arc due to a build up of corona and ozone. A greater surface area is easier to "quench" with a fan making it possible to fire a spark gap at higher frequencies. Another use, which I want to try myself in the future is remote triggering. Remote triggering uses a HV trigger circuit to add to the ignition circuit making a HV jump on cue. I'll put up a diagram to show what I mean by this. But, essentially, having a gap setup like that doesn't benifit much from only one power source, if any.


Thanks for the help/suggestions but its a little bit over my head. I was actually thinking about making a remote trigger system using an old cordless phone with the "Call Phone" button. because once that button is pressed, it sends a signal to the cordless phone turning on a switch that makes the phone ring. I could dig up some schematics and see how i could wire it up. I had the perfect phone too but the battery was screwed up so i put it to rest for another project.
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Thanks again for the input guys, I really appreciate it!

wow that took long to type lol...
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