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Building an induction furnace

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Unread postAuthor: john bunsenburner » Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:43 pm

In the us you get either 110 or 120v, while in europe you get 220, 240v exactly double...
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:05 pm

Really? i did not know that. How would you use the full potential?
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Unread postAuthor: john bunsenburner » Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:20 pm

what do you mean full potential?
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:39 pm

for jimmy's comment,240v in the us.sorry for short reply, im typing on a barcode scanner.
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Unread postAuthor: microman171 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:25 am

Typing on a barcode scanner? :?

I would like to have an electric 'metal melter', but I think it would probably end up costing a lot with all of the power...

Me personally? I say go with a waste oil burning furnace - hot enough to melt iron I think!

What do you mean by dirty? As in producing lots of black smoke?

I wouldn't know, I've only used a charcoal furnace (with various solid fuel).
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Unread postAuthor: john bunsenburner » Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:34 am

WVO needs to be ignited first, if the flame then goes out i am screwed, if i build a bad burner it will smoke my alli not melt it, i have to filter it, it is unpleasent and leaves a big mess...While electrical power or propane have none of these problems...Just propane cylinders tend to run out when you need them while electricity is always there!
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:41 pm

intermec ck3 barcode scanner my dad brang from work. There trying to implement that system.
I am going to attempt a induction heater today (parts re coming today), Ile post results =p
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Unread postAuthor: john bunsenburner » Fri Jan 02, 2009 1:07 pm

ok, thanks m8!message too short...
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Unread postAuthor: marpat » Fri Jan 02, 2009 1:10 pm

the toaster elements work with lead and is actually quite covemient for casting ammuntion. but it does not melt much else :[
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Unread postAuthor: john bunsenburner » Fri Jan 02, 2009 1:13 pm

No alli? it should, how are you using them?
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 1:39 pm

toaster is the worst option of heating elements. Try a hairdryer, or a oven if your feeling ambitious =p
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Unread postAuthor: jimmy101 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:56 pm

john bunsenburner wrote:In the us you get either 110 or 120v, while in europe you get 220, 240v exactly double...

No, in the US you get 110/120 at standard wall outlets. The circuit breaker box is supplied with 220/240V. The outlets for high power appliances are 220/240V.

Most homes have a 220/240V circuit for an electric clothes dryer that is wired to an outlet for a special plug. Use that for the furnace. (Many of the other high voltage circuits don't go an actual outlet, the wiring is done in a box.)
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:15 pm

I always thought those where just for higher current. So my fuse for my dryer is 60A. Is that 60A at 240v?
Is that why all the high power fuses (dryer with 2 30A and double oven with 2 50A) are composed of two breakers put together? for both legs of th circuit?
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Unread postAuthor: jimmy101 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:59 pm

rp181 wrote:I always thought those where just for higher current. So my fuse for my dryer is 60A. Is that 60A at 240v?
Is that why all the high power fuses (dryer with 2 30A and double oven with 2 50A) are composed of two breakers put together? for both legs of th circuit?

Exactly, 60A at 240V (14.4KW). The two legs of the supply are both used instead of one leg and ground. The legs are 180 degrees out of phase with each other, when one leg is at +120V the other is at -120V giving 240V between the legs and across the appliance.

That is why the dryer has a special plug. You can't plug a standard 120V plug into the dryer's outlet. Even something simple like a 120V 100W light bulb would be "unhappy" with a 240VAC supply.

240V circuits include a ground plug so that the appliance also has 120V available to run the controls, lights etc.

A 240V circuit has two "hots" and doesn't require a "common" (ground) though the ground is there for safety reasons. A standard 120V circuit has one "hot" and a "common" (ground). For safety reasons a 120V circuit has an extra, true ground. "Common" is connected to ground in the breaker box but "common" and ground are not the same thing. There should never be any current in the true ground wire, there is current in the common when a device is plugged into the circuit.
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Unread postAuthor: microman171 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:00 pm

You got results with a toaster? Wow!
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