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Unread postAuthor: Daltonultra » Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:37 pm

lol@Traxxas...they do make some good stuff, but the E-Revo and the Maxx series aren't included unless you feel like spending a LOT on upgrades to run on anything other than pavement or a professional track. I have been thinking of getting a Rustler VXL, though...

Right now I have an HPI Savage Flux that is an absolute beast. I don't have it tuned for top speed, so it only does around 40mph, but the acceleration is brutal on 2 2-cell LiPOs (14.8volts) and if I want, I can take it up to 6 cells for 22.2volts. On 4 cells, it can do a standing backflip. On 6 cells, I could do a backflip at any speed up to probably 20mph...
And while some other trucks might out-corner it on a track, there's just nothing out there that can jump and take abuse like a Savage. I've cleared thirty-foot jumps and landed samck on the roof, or even bounced off one wheel, and just kept going with little or no damage. I've broken a few parts here and there just out of constant abuse, and spent more money than I maybe should have, but that's just part of the hobby.

I do have a set of aftermarket chassis plates. The stock ones finally bent after six months of constant bad landings, so I replaced them with a set of 5mm thick 6061 aluminum plates from TeamTCS for, get this, $20. Everything else is either stock, or replaced with parts from the earlier Savage 25, which had a couple parts that were stronger.

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Mine is the orange Cuda...
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Unread postAuthor: kiwi of nitro » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:09 pm

YEAH! Somehow I knew I was about to see some nitro buggies when I clicked this thread!

Here's a few of mine!

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That's a 1/8th losi muggy (truggy) with a JPX .28, I run it at www.tacomarc.com or www.fourseasonsrcracing.com (my local tracks) you should look up your local tracks if you haven't already, lots of fun to race.

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That's the sleeve of my mach .26, if you enlarge the intake ports you can get 40,000 rpm out of most motors, (and shorten their life so be careful)...

I used a dremel and hand files to port and polish that motor...

you'll need to do some research if you want to do that... I screwed up a few motors before I got it right. I practiced on used cheap ones I got off ebay...



NOWADAYS

Brushless is more powerful than nitro,

this is the AE B4 I used to have with a Mamba 5700kv system in it, when running 3s 11.1v lipos I clocked it at 69mph with my garmin GPS onboard!

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This is one of my fav videos...
[GVideo]
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 354&hl=en#
[/GVideo]
Another cool one:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6MD2jUGReg
[/youtube]
Kyosho MP777 Jumps a house, ya that's right and it survives with nothing but a busted body post.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5JXs3KqUqU[/youtube]

The Hyper 9 is a revolutionary machine,

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U36xygJcP4[/youtube]
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Unread postAuthor: rcman50166 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:58 pm

Well VH_man, I'm not sure if you know what RCman stands for do you?
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Unread postAuthor: kiwi of nitro » Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:26 pm

Something I did a while back that sped up my lap times...
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/k ... GP0399.flv

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/k ... GP0398.flv

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MEET THE AUTOTANK!
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:48 pm

VH_Man, if you spent that kind of money on your setup, why did you buy an Axial 28? One of the worst performing .28s on the market, and for $100 more, you could have had a Picco 28, which would wipe the floor with your Axial.

A long time ago, I dumped a large amount of money into an HPI Savage.

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Unread postAuthor: VH_man » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:07 pm

all I know is my axial is a definite upgrade from the junky engine I had on there before...

the axial was running for like 100 bucks, so It was a cheap upgrade that I KNEW i could get replacement parts for, unlike my other engine.... not to mention the engine was a birthday present so for me it was free.

It was a force .28 or something. And it was junk. The part of the piston that held the wrist pin in completely exploded and cased irreparable damage to the piston and sleeve, connecting rod, bearings, and crankcase. All after running 1 gallon of fuel through it, and on top of that, It was a RICH 1 gallon. And I used a good 1/4 gallon getting it started (with help from someone who knew what they were doing)

The axial started up on the first pull, gives some pretty impressive mid-range torque, and with some mods, has been able to give me a top speed I am quite happy with. For bashing (which is mostly what I do) i couldn't ask for better.

and that auto-tank cant be good for your engine... Its simply leaning out your mixture when you pull the top open. Unless your using that to fuel the car, in which case I dont see a real reason to but... hey. Its cool.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:46 pm

Just so you know, the Force 28 is a higher quality and better performing engine than the Axial 28. Honestly, Axial engines are bottom of the barrel. If you're happy with it though, then that's fine.

You probably blew up the Force by running it overly rich (And cool) for the first gallon. Due to the tapered sleeve, these engines must be broken in at operating temperature (200 degrees F or higher), else you put incredible stresses on the connecting rod, rod bushings, piston, and crankshaft.

And I used a good 1/4 gallon getting it started (with help from someone who knew what they were doing)


If it took 1/4 gallon to get it started, the person you were working with obviously didn't know what they were doing. I've helped lots of guys break in nitro engines, Force 28s included, and with the proper glow plug heat range and fuel mixture settings, you don't need more than a few seconds to get it started.
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Unread postAuthor: kiwi of nitro » Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:58 pm

Well, its not like I open the tank just for fun!

The autotank lets me do one handed re-fueling at the raceway with my fuel gun without setting down my transmitter. I can stop my truggy, press the TX button, empty my fuel gun into the tank press the TX button again and be back in the race in TWO SECONDS or less!

Other racers have to take their truggy off the track set down their transmitters, reach into the cooling cut-out on their body, pull the tank open with one hand and re-fuel with the other hand, then put their truggy back on the track, this takes a long time and risks stalling the engine, taking even more time!


And racing is what RC is all about!!!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pCbVvhT67c[/youtube]
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Unread postAuthor: VH_man » Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:17 pm

it sure doesn't seem like it... Meh. I am happy with it. So i guess its all good.

Anywhere there are reliable specs on engines? (not manufacturers junk). I kind of want some numerical backup for the apparent suckishness of the axial. because I still dont buy it. At least, It seems well made...... and reliable.

And Kiwi, thats a CRAZY track. puts the one near where I live to shame....
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:43 pm

NitroDyne Systems used to have a decent database of dynamometer readings for various engines, though their site seems to have disappeared. XRC magazine has also tested a bunch of engines, and the Axial was among the lowest of the .28s.

An Axial engine will usually seem great to someone who is new to Nitro, but they really aren't. They are made in Taiwan using the cheapest materials the manufacturer can get away with. The metallurgy, build quality, and performance are relatively poor. Once you run something like a Picco built engine, you will wonder why you didn't just buy one in the first place.
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Unread postAuthor: VH_man » Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:51 pm

It makes sense... It was a steal... tower was selling it for 120 or so.

Ah well. I guess all I have to compare it to is the force .28 that I still say was a piece of junk (at least what I saw of it) and a .12 on my friends streetcar.

Regardless, Im turning my car in for the season about now, and doing what I call the "winter tune up", where all the Jury rigged fixes are replaced with legitimate replacement parts, Everything is cleaned like new, all Screws are re-thread-locked, and I finally get a body thats not completely destroyed. Mostly meaning that yes, there will be some sweet pics of my new body (painted by me) up sometime.
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Unread postAuthor: kiwi of nitro » Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:00 pm

Yeah spudblaster's absolutely right, I run a Jammin JPX .28 which is a Picco 28 with a different cooling head and comes stock with an 8mm carb venturi insert rather than a 9mm like the picco.

The Italian motors like Picco and Novarossi are far superior to any of the taiwan junk. Their machining is much better, however they can take up to a gallon to break-in due to the crazy tight pinch zone at TDC.

Here's some pics of my JPX 28

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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:26 pm

All you have to do is match the size of the carburater with the intake and gasket, same with the exhaust. Any bigger and your building a time bomb, removing material unnecessarily. After you match the sizes polish smooth and you got all your going to get!

Exhaust configuration, if you want your engine to wind out for a long way your expansion chamber should be long and skinny, get as much chamber stuffed in there that you can.

If you want your engine to wind up real fast make your expansion chamber short and fat. Of course the trade off is you can't run it wide open for long runs.

If someone else said this, sorry. Once I seen the pictures I knew right away what is going on.

kiwi of nitro, you should have left that bridge in the sleeve.
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Unread postAuthor: kiwi of nitro » Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:02 pm

That post right above of the JPX sleeve isn't modded, that's stock actually!

That mach sleeve at the top of the thread is however.

I went crazy on that cheap mach motor, I enlarged the carb venturi and then the block and crank, then the intake and exhaust port, it's runs hot, but it definitely boosted the power.

And check out this tuned pipe (or expansion chamber if that's what you want to call it)


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQeh8SxerAY[/youtube]


Check out www.bukupower.com

You don't need to worry about getting the right tuned pipe now you can have them all at once.
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Unread postAuthor: VH_man » Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:10 pm

You don't need to worry about getting the right tuned pipe now you can have them all at once.


for a nominal fee of 109 bucks.....
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