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Unread postAuthor: WOW!! » Sat May 13, 2006 10:16 am

Here is a a http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h105/SRX_RidEr/ link for my lawn mower.
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sat May 13, 2006 5:07 pm

Wow, the link is your log on link, you have to log on find the pic you want to share copy the url link under the pic, then post that 1, not the link in your browser address field.
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sat May 13, 2006 5:28 pm

I would think twice about modding a good rideing mower drive to a hydrostatic drive, not that you can't, it's just to inpractical/costly to do so, also the frames just aren't the same. Hydraulic drives are hard to get rite if they are not designed to the machine, it would be easier to build a chassie from scratch to accomidate hydrostatic/hydraulic drives, no fooling, your bitting off a expensive very hard to build project, i really don't recomend trying it!! I wouldn't do it and i have been a mechanic all my life 39 now started when i was 14, thats 25 years now.

the double post was not my fault, it was the computer, GLITCH???
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Sun May 14, 2006 5:41 pm

ok heres what i found

since i am using only one wheel for drive at the back, i found a 8" pneumatic wheel, perfect, because it has bearings in it, i figure i bolt my sprocket right on it, and have an axle that does not spin.
but i know i need only 48 to 53 teeth on the sprocket, and from some sources, steel sprockets does not go that low

aluminum sprockets do have 53 teeth but they are the kind that are meant to be split in half, are they good enough?
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/AZ2001.html?id=6J2znsT4
i know, it's expensive
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun May 14, 2006 5:57 pm

You can get a steel plated sprock from here - http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gokaz_ ... sprckt.cfm 54 teeth, it's the 1 we used on the go-cart with BALLS ! ! ! The split sprockets are for raceing, the 1 we used was only like $17.00 i think, check out the link page from top to bottem. YEA CHECK OUT THE VERY BOTTEM IT'S JUST WHAT YOUR LOOKING FOR i think.
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Sun May 14, 2006 6:11 pm

but those are for #40 chains
who knows i might get lucky... :lol: 8) :shock: :roll:

if i used a scrub brake, can u use the brake shoe from a bike brake?
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun May 14, 2006 6:14 pm

What size chain were you useing again? I forgot we had that conversation, you can use a 40,41, or 420 on the bottem sprocket. Here check out all the cart parts they offer - http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gocartparts_index.html
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Sun May 14, 2006 6:17 pm

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gokart ... kt_35f.cfm

problem solved

do you have aim or msn i can talk to you on? you seem to respond rather fast
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun May 14, 2006 6:20 pm

YAHOO-member jrrdw i have to log on give me a minute(dail up)

Yahoo messanger that is i don't have any other.
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Unread postAuthor: WOW!! » Sun May 14, 2006 10:04 pm

saladtossser wrote:ok heres what i found

since i am using only one wheel for drive at the back, i found a 8" pneumatic wheel, perfect, because it has bearings in it, i figure i bolt my sprocket right on it, and have an axle that does not spin.
but i know i need only 48 to 53 teeth on the sprocket, and from some sources, steel sprockets does not go that low

aluminum sprockets do have 53 teeth but they are the kind that are meant to be split in half, are they good enough?
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/AZ2001.html?id=6J2znsT4
i know, it's expensive


If it is the drive wheel you dont want it to spin on the axel. If you are mounting the sprocket on the axel you need just a hub and no bearing. And i dont know how stable it is going to be with one wheel.
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Tue May 16, 2006 6:06 pm

WOW!! wrote:If it is the drive wheel you dont want it to spin on the axel.


why not? thats how a bike works, and there will be less stress on a still axle, i can use shaft collars to stop it from wobbling

We strongly suggest a single wheel drive rather than a solid axle. With a sold axle both wheels are forced to turn at the same speed at all times and it is difficult to turn. A single wheel drive is fine for most applications.


That was from http://www.limestonemedia.com/how-to-pl ... rocket.htm

A single wheel drive is by far the easier and cheaper than a differential, and give you the needed slip for on-road and hard pack dirt driving.


from http://www.diygokarts.com/kart-parts/go ... -axle.html

For a single wheel drive, the sprocket can mount directly to the wheel so that there are no moving axle parts.


from http://www.diygokarts.com/kart-parts/go ... ocket.html

WOW!! wrote:And i dont know how stable it is going to be with one wheel.


wont be the best but i will have wheels on the side, a tad smaller so i can ride on not flat places

dont you worry, thanks to you guys and many others, i have the puzzle peices and i am going to start doing stuff as soon as i get my money

edit:
whats a really easy way to disconnect a roller chain without special tools?? i am thinking of using a nail, hammer, and a vice...
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Tue May 16, 2006 8:29 pm

I use my 4" angle grinder and grind half the link off, it's brutill, but it's fast, just lock it in your vice tight so it don't get away from you. Remember measure twice, cut once!!! Your way is hard to do, agravating, and hard on the fingers, been there, done that!

HAPPY BUILDING.

HAVE FUN.

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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Tue May 16, 2006 11:56 pm

arg i'm getting conflicting info on clutches

http://www.hoffcocomet.com/comet/afterm ... utches.asp
comet industries site says their 400 series clutch is up to 8 hp

but

http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/209760A..html?id=S7hEiJDu
says it is only for up to 5 hp

i trust it goest to 8 hp because mfgsupply just copied and pasted all over their site

also no website says the one that fits my engine has a keyway, the pictures do not show a keyway

but

These 1" bore clutches do not use set screws and mount onto the engine crankshaft with a lockwasher, flat washer and a bolt in the end of the crankshaft. Requires a crankshaft with a tapped end. The Part #206169A clutch for #35 chain has 12 teeth. The Part #206170A clutch for #40, #41 & #420 chain has 10 teeth. Designed and built for direct drive mini bikes and go karts, one of the most rugged applications ever required of a modestly priced automatic centrifugal clutch. Operates under conditions that would destroy most clutches.


suggests i have to bolt it on the shaft (yes can do, shaft has tapered end and a threaded hole), or have some sort of set screw to jam into the keyway

this site
http://shakyparts.com/comet_clutch_for_3_4_shaft.html
clearly states it has a key right on it and a set screw
also
http://www.bmikarts.com/shop/?shop=1&ca ... bval=thumb
http://www.bmikarts.com/shop/index.php? ... from=thumb
says the samething somewhat, but i dont know the brand

so my guts say that they all do have the key thingy, should i trust my guts? also bolting a clutch to the shaft is no problem unless it becomes loose

i have exhausted all of my sources, if you know more stores or diy go kart sites let me know, i'm making a list
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Wed May 17, 2006 5:52 am

Yes, go with the comet clutch, you can clearly see the key way and set screw hole. In the 3rd link posted above. Says Willards small engine parts in yellow writing rite in the pic. Some of these clutch's come with 2 set screw hole placed so they hold the key in the keyway tightly, and with the added center bolt your in bussiness!!! You gotter now, go with it!!!
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Sat May 20, 2006 4:58 pm

GREAT NEWS, just got 40 feet of steel tubing, a $80 arc welder, some 8" pneumatic wheels, the clutch and sprocket, the place ran out of 35 chain

can some1 give me a crash course on arc stick welding?
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