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The Official High-Speed Camera Thread

All non-spudgun related discussion goes here such as projects, theories, serious questions, etc. All "off-topic" posts (aka useless posting, determined by moderators) will be removed.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudFarm » Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:45 pm

Unbelievable how irritating a small spot on your lens is, even if it does not affect image quality at all..

Humans fear the unknown and the things that they can't remove, instinct's a bit*h..
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Mon Apr 04, 2011 7:12 pm

SpudFarm wrote: This one came out pretty good and resulted in three steel beads embedded in my lens.
Thank you for not throwing molten metal at my lens God!


I am a fan of filters. I learned years ago that a UV or other filter to protect the lens was a good investment. I've used them since my first 35mm SLR.

http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/index.html
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Unread postAuthor: drex » Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:06 pm

I figure this would be a relevant place to share how I spent my lunch hour!
Image


if theres a better way to embed this let me know.

Edit: the camera is a Casio Exlim Zr-100
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Apr 07, 2011 4:31 pm

The quality on your camera seems no better than that of my FS10 that only costs 100 USD... Anyways nice video, but for God's sake, don't record everything in 1000 fps, I did a water fountain in 210 once and it looks good.
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Unread postAuthor: drex » Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:24 pm

For the most part you're probably right about the quality, I needed the better zoom and I wanted to be able to shoot in 1080p.
I guess I should play around with something other than 1000fps.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Apr 07, 2011 7:08 pm

I guess the better pictures/zoom/1080p videos makes it worth it.
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Unread postAuthor: Hotwired » Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:07 pm

Got bored, bought a Casio Exilim ZR-100.

It's a nice bit of kit.

I may finally find a use for the 30W fluorescent 5000k daylight bulbs I bought a while back.

While I was fiddling with my new toy, trying out long exposure laser painting:

Image

I noticed I was being watched:

Image

For a sense of scale each major diagonal line is 5mm apart.

Sleep tight :)
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Last edited by Hotwired on Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:14 pm

I want to launch a LED blinker and do a long exposure of the flight. I think my camera has a long exposure mode, so I may try a few shots this summer.
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Unread postAuthor: Hotwired » Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:40 pm

Technician1002 wrote:LED blinker


Wouldn't it be better to have a permanently on LED since it's only going to be in shot for a short while anyway. You might get a disappointingly large amount of black between "tracer" streaks.
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:54 pm

Many flash at 3 or more flashes per second. If I do a long shot with a 9 second hang time, the shot should have a string of about 30 flashes. I just checked my camera. On manual I can go as long as a 16 second exposure on manual. :D

Edit, used manual to set the exposure for the TV. Normally the auto exposure of a camera would make a mess of this scene and overexpose the TV. I can see the camera is sensitive to the IR from the Wii sensor bar on top of the TV. Watching Stargate on the Wii on Netflix.
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Manual exposure for the TV.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:24 am

Methinks MrCrowley will be posting in this thread shortly. :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:27 am

Made it a topic instead :D
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Unread postAuthor: ramses » Fri Apr 08, 2011 2:28 pm

Inside of 3 minutes, yes.

It shouldn't be too much trouble to modify the blinker to blink faster. It may be as simple as adding more voltage.
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Fri Apr 08, 2011 4:24 pm

Many blinkers have an RC timebase. Changing the voltage on most don't change the rate much. Changing the capacitor to one about 1/10th the value does the trick most of the time. Often the capacitor is a tiny surface mount device. Most hobbyists are not equipped to do SMD work.
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Unread postAuthor: Ragnarok » Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:51 pm

There was some pretty stonking sunlight this afternoon, so I tried out a few things. I did some videos, but I'm more impressed with the photos:

Die being blown apart by my .177":
Image
It's a very noisy picture, but the exposure time was only 1/20,000th, so I had to run it at full ISO settings (ISO 3200).

Unfortunately, the timing wasn't great, even with the 40 fps burst mode trying to compensate (there wasn't even an impact frame in some of my other attempts - just a die, then no die in the next picture), but it's still amazing to see how much it's distorting immediately after impact - you can see the remnants of the 5 being bent right out of whack.

And a water filled Coke bottle at 1/10,000th:
Image

Unfortunately I didn't have a smoother sided bottle on hand, but the cavitation is still pretty cool.

If I get better light some day, I'll try the 1/40,000th shutter speed and see how that turns out.
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