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Can you solder steel?

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Can you solder steel?

Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Sat Nov 11, 2006 10:43 pm

Can you solder onto steel? I was trying to solder wires to bolts for my camera taser and it wasn't sticking. I think they're stainless steel bolts. If not I guess they're zinc.
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Unread postAuthor: rna_duelers » Sat Nov 11, 2006 11:00 pm

Yes you can,but the bolt has to be the same temperature as the wire so it can stick to it.So you need a big heat source more then a little soldering iron.Try heating up aother bolt or piece of steel with a blow torch of some sort and use that to solder it.
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Sat Nov 11, 2006 11:06 pm

only problem is its already on the camera and epoxied and stuff. I just wrapped the wire around it and electrical taped it. Thanks though now I know not to try and solder it for 30 min lol
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:35 am

Sodering suave(sp) helps also, auto radiators shop buy that stuff by the pounds, they due tons of sodering.
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:12 am

what is that? Because I would rather have it soldered then what I have now. Its just electrical taped on there and covered in hot glue
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:04 pm

Ask anyone at a hardware store, or go to plumbing isle and explore. You can find it there, sodering takes pratice, so don't get frustrated if it don't work 1st couple of times, and follow the directions. It comes in little tin cans the size of 50 cent pieces (aprox). You should use silver soder to soder wireing. It has no lead in it.
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:42 pm

Yeah I can solder I just couldn't get the solder to stay onto the bolt. The solder I have if lead free and I think its made from resin or something. I got that cold heat soldering iron at home depot. What does soldering suave do though?
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:36 pm

Makes the rite inviroment for the soder to stick. Kinda like the white colored flux on a welding rod.
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Unread postAuthor: Pete Zaria » Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:44 pm

Assuming you won't damage the circutry by doing so, when soldering, hotter is usually better. You know your materials are hot enough when the solder turns to more of a liquid than a solid. Try to get *both* surfaces really hot before applying the solder. I use a propane torch on low or a butane torch lighter (like the kind crackheads use) if there's no risk of damaging circutry. If I'm working on a circuit board, a 100w soldering gun works great.
Use silver, rosin-core, lead-free solder. Smaller gauge solder melts faster and easier.

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Pete Zaria.
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:59 pm

Ok guys, this is just bugging me, i normaly don't care but, is it spelled soder or solder. I mean look at it, sod-er, sold-er, did i sold-er it or sod-er it????
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Unread postAuthor: PVC Arsenal 17 » Sun Nov 12, 2006 10:16 pm

solder is correct.
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Unread postAuthor: rna_duelers » Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:09 am

Make sure you do use a flux,it is a weak acid solution that cleanes the surfaces so the solder can stick easily.It's much cheaper from glass shops because its used to solder up glass frames.
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Unread postAuthor: pyrogeek » Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:30 pm

Solder for welding electronic circuits already has a flux inside.
I have a switchable iron, and I use the 20 watt setting on delicate electronics, and 40watts for heavier stuff.

Also, I believe it's "silver bearing solder", not just silver solder. And you can have lead free solder without silver. I think it has tin and like antimony in it.
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