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starting a battle robot

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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:37 pm

yea you guys get to work on that...

problem: gear box not enough reduction ratio
solution: lego gears? retrofit another gearbox? try it out with small wheels and see?
problem: batteries too expensive, big, and heavy
solution: extend frame? use lithium button cells? lower voltage down to 12? triple 9v?
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Unread postAuthor: frankrede » Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:52 am

Ah I always wanted to make a robot but spud guns have robbed me blind.
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Unread postAuthor: Recruit » Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:31 am

Salad you want them to run over you that is the point of the saw :D . Or how about building a flying one like a helo that lands on the enemy and drills hole in him so you so shoot taser into it or something.
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Tue Jan 23, 2007 7:10 am

I like the spike idea, but it needs modification. As far as room goes, i think you will need at least 2" around all componets with styrofoam cushion for protection.
If you go with the spike weapon --
Concentrate on building a good strong bumper, mainly to protect yourself from collisions. Direct main power to the drive wheels 2/3rds worth. The remaining power should be divided between steering and a retracting push off ram, that way you don't get stuck on your oppounet. A eletric solenoid would work best for a push off ram.
Question -- Is the objective to incapacitate all other oppounts?
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Unread postAuthor: Hotwired » Tue Jan 23, 2007 8:11 am

Make a spider one that clamps itself onto another robot with its legs then starts drilling/cutting away at it.

The legs will be the tricky bit but what kind of defence can you have against a limpet robot?

^_^
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:30 am

I like the spike idea, but it needs modification. As far as room goes, i think you will need at least 2 inch around all componets with styrofoam cushion for protection.
If you go with the spike weapon --
Concentrate on building a good strong bumper, mainly to protect yourself from collisions. Direct main power to the drive wheels 2/3rds worth. The remaining power should be divided between steering and a retracting push off ram, that way you do not get stuck on your oppounet. A eletric solenoid would work best for a push off ram.
Question -- Is the objective to incapacitate all other oppounts?


yea objective is basically disable, damage, shove

so you recommand another 1/3 gear reduction? think i can make a mold of plastic gears and then fill it with hot molten aluminum then fine tune it with a dremel?

edit: my friend who gave me the motors apperantly used a 1:2 ratio with 2" wheels and that ran fine, so I'm just gonna half that wheel size, but it won't be invertible

edit: think i'll find some rechargable ni-mh 9Vs and a charger

edit: i can't quote properly, there is always a slash before a quotation mark

"
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:58 pm

No slash, your button stuck??? A smaller wheel size gives you a lower gear, (more push power). A bigger wheel gives you a bigger/taller gear, more speed). A taller gear uses up more power. You can put a motor on each drive wheel, powered by 2 Tyco power packs 9.6v each run in a series giving you 19.2v. These power pack are basically 8 AA batteries run in series, 2 rows, 4 in each row. You should run a electronic speed control for motors to work well in this project.

Search ebay for Erector Sets with the gears you need, plus you'll get bracing pieces out of it, nuts and bolts ect...

Trying to make your own gears will be quit the challenge.

Nylon gears will probly hold up against stripping, the problem is normally the gear spinning on the drive/jack shaft. If you can solve that problem, gears will be plentiful.

What do you mean by -- " I'm just gonna half that wheel size, but it won't be invertible "?
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:07 pm

slash is gone, good, so is the code beside your rank picture.

I was looking at "the source" (canadian radio shack) and each 9.6v battery is like $30, but another friend of mine has a 9.6v pack from a old rc tank that he blew up years ago so i'll go with that, and probably get another one.

lol i think i made up "invertible", but it's a real word... "able to run upside down" is basically what i meant

gonna try making a frame design that has aluminum on top to counter hammer weapons

if i get enough money after it works, then i'm gonna get a 3 channel radio and receiver and two ESC

edit: with a motor such as this (link) , how heavy of a fly wheel can it effectively spin up?

edit:
new frame design, the top has more aluminum, the bottom is completely lexan, should be lighter and stronger against hits from above. the front end ramp is also easier to make because of the changed angle, and so it also has more room inside. the lexan bottom will have all electronics attached while the aluminum will have the motors mounted to it.
Image

this paper is 8" by 5.5", plenty of space i guess, probably make it 6" wide instead of 5.5"
Image

new side layout concept:
Image
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Unread postAuthor: abcdefg » Wed Jan 24, 2007 8:49 pm

what kind of blade are you using?
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Unread postAuthor: ProfessorAmadeus » Wed Jan 24, 2007 9:22 pm

Use a pihrana as a weapon. Or make a flame thrower :violent3: If I knew anything about electronics I would make a robot also. I might make one using the parts from a remote controlled car from a garage sale. You can get a metal cutting blade for a small chop saw from sears or any other hardware store for like 1 dollar for like 2 of them.
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Wed Jan 24, 2007 9:37 pm

what i was thinking, was actually not a saw or disk at all, i want a heavy bar (as heavy as possible while keeping the robot under 3 pounds) that spins to flip other robots, or even better, use a system that lets me change between the two options

(EDIT check out omega force 2 here and see why http://www.wa4dsy.net/robot/omegaforce2/)

ok i am going to use a 3/16" diameter axle for the wheels, but i can either have a fixed axle made if threaded rod that does not spin and have the wheels be fitted with small bearing in the center, or have two spinning axles 3/16" in diameter and fit the bearings on to the chassis

but i don't know if i should use bearings, if i don't i will use a 1/4" or 3/16" axle. should i be using bearings? if not i can also probably make cheap bushings out of plastic
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:11 pm

Mount the bearings to the chassis, it's a stronger build. Have 1 solid axel from wheel to wheel. Mount a gear/sprocket/pulley to the axel, that will give you more gearing options.
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Unread postAuthor: judgment_arms » Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:26 pm

Ha, that guy might as well of given you blueprints! Why not just make that bot? (Rhetorical question) as for the spinning flipper, I like it, but if you ran it backwards with a claw on it, call it the shredder! If you put a hammer on the end of the spinning rod you get duel uses, you can flip them over and then run it back the other way and beat them to a pulp! I personally prefer spikes on the front, simple but effective just ram the opponent into the wall.
Question: can you use a nitro engine?
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Unread postAuthor: saladtossser » Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:36 pm

jrrdw how am i supposed to turn? having another steering wheel is just not an option

cool idea about the claw, if i make the ram stronger maybe i'll try that

can i use a nitro engine? according to the rules, yes
but i really think it's more effort than it's worth

rules also say i need a switch on the robot in a safe place to shut it down
i was thinking of a keyed switch, good idea?
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:38 am

Long winded --


Where you going to steer it with the motors? I see your point. The flipper is a good idea, but can be defeated by ramming the flipper arm broadside, bend just one pivot point/hinge/linkage and it's done, or at least slowed down greatly. I didn't watch the video you posted, (download time is a issue this AM, but will check it tonight). As for the motor, rule of thumb: More speed, less power! More power, less speed! If you really want to get fancy, you can get two speed transmissions for RC toys, i don't see why you can't get a pair in there. Other then cost/room, would probly save on battery power. You can make your own battery packs. I normally get fifty at a time from ebay, dirt cheep and they have tabs on them for soldering wires on them. I'll get you the ebay store link tonight and edit this post.

Was that long winded enough?
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