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Spuddy Junior Unleashed! (accidentally)

Built a pneumatic cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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Unread postAuthor: THUNDERLORD » Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:51 pm

Very nice.
Maybe the pipe you wondered about is plated?
Looks sleek.
I got an umbrella I'd like to convert to something,
But i was thinking BB barrel. 8)
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Unread postAuthor: frozebyte » Sat Jul 11, 2009 2:02 am

@inonickname
Sorry what schrader problem are you referring to? Mine has no problem with fitting, just the whole schrader is spoilt(leaking) and i alr epoxied it to a $3 fitting cause my hot glue gun exploded(be careful not to buy cheap stuff like mine).

I charge it up, close the bv, and remove the schrader to fire. Works alright. Whats the core of the schrader? Mine doesn't look like it can be unscrewed.

@THUNDERLORD
Nope, not plated i guess, i sanded the printed words off and its still shiny. Its probably stainless steel or coated stainless steel.

UPDATE: I found out what caused my mini coax to accidentally fire a blank again (second time). Its due to a leak at the joint between the chamber and the bv, causes pressure to drop behind the piston when i stop pumping (subsequently fires the gun). It makes a loud bang even with three or so pumps on this small pump.

Anybody willing to give me ideas on how to modify this bv to be like a trigger, cause i have a rubberband gun stock made of wood and i can probably shave the top down to fit the gun. I made a trigger but it will be aligned to the let, out of the stock (quite stupid).

The setup (top will be cut down)
Image

Closer look
Image

The trigger is able to open the bv about 75% with that angled trigger.

Cheers.
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Unread postAuthor: MRR » Sat Jul 11, 2009 4:35 am

You could unscrew the handle of the ball valve and attach something different (maybe made out of wood).

What inonickname meant with shrader problem is that you have to unscrew the fitting everytime you pressurized the gun. The shrader is basically a tube with inner threading and the check valve is screwed into it. Now, when you remove the check valve you don't have to unscrew the fitting each time.
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Unread postAuthor: frozebyte » Sat Jul 11, 2009 5:54 am

I see, thanks for explaining on behalf of inonickname :] My shrader valve came from a scrapped inner tube and it doesn't seem to be able to be unscrewed into a checkvalve and the rest of the parts. Heres a picture of another shrader that i stripped (not very clean).

Image


I unscrewed the handle before, but it didnt seem easy to make another handle. Is wood the easiest way? I only have a few scrap pieces that broke off when i was sawing the stock. Those don't look useful.

Cheers.
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Unread postAuthor: inonickname » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:05 am

It should be unscrewable, you'll need a special tool or small electronic needle nosed pliers to do it.
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:14 am

For the ball-valve trigger, you can get a larger steel handle from another ball valve, and grind it into a trigger shape, like BTB did...

Image

EDIT: it appears your ball valve is a mini-style type. You might have to replace it with a whole 'nother valve to get a larger steel handle.
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Unread postAuthor: frozebyte » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:30 am

I wanted a mini type, i didn't use my other big steel one. I don't haver power tools so grinding is... impossible.

I'd probably have to wait til an inspiration comes knocking by, i had an idea last night but now its gone.

Coincidentally, that design by BtB was what i wanted to replicate earlier on but i decided to settle for a mini coax, I really like most of BtB's airguns.

EDIT: my steel handle fits on the mini valve but the stopper part is preventing me from installing it. if only i had a grinder, then it would fit real nice and i'll have a nice trigger in the middle. The big one doesn't work that well even if i reverse the handle, still not in the middle.

I think i'll cut one out of an aluminium strip i have and double it to reinforce(its not very strong). I should be able to punch a hole out with hammer and nail so that it fits onto my valve. Hoping for the best when i get to work tomorrow.
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Unread postAuthor: FORE!!!! » Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:57 am

inonickname wrote:It should be unscrewable, you'll need a special tool or small electronic needle nosed pliers to do it.


u can get a hacksaw blade and use ur tin snips to cut the desierd shape
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Unread postAuthor: frozebyte » Sat Jul 11, 2009 9:47 am

FORE!!!! wrote:
inonickname wrote:It should be unscrewable, you'll need a special tool or small electronic needle nosed pliers to do it.


u can get a hacksaw blade and use ur tin snips to cut the desierd shape


Im not sure why you quoted inonickname. Was it cause i totally missed it? Thanks for bringing that back up to me.

I don't think those manual tools are going to be affective on thick steel.

EDIT:
@inonickname
I managed to unscrew the check valve, never knew it worked this way! hmm, i should probably replace the leaking check valve with the non-leaking one since i already epoxied the casing. Won't the air vent very slowly through the small hole? My pilot volume isn't very big right? The piston only has about 1cm to shoot backwards and right behind it is the bv already. Would that counter the small hole problem?
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Unread postAuthor: frozebyte » Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:22 am

I hope this is a valid double post.

I managed to work my way into a custom trigger using hammer, some heavy duty cutter(blunt already), big old screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers. In my opinion, i think a straight trigger running on the side of the stock works better, but i bent mine into the middle. (might revert it)

Pictures:

It basically looks like this
Image

Image

Closer look
Image

It hasn't been attatched to the wood cause i have no idea how. and i left the original handle on top of it to confirm if i closed the bv fully or not, and to hold the trigger in place.

It doesn't look very nice with those weak tools i have.
Critics are welcomed, want to improve this.

Cheers. :D

p.s. can someone clarify with me if a copper and steel pipe with same thickness length whatever is put into comparison, which is stronger? And roughly how much is the difference?
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Unread postAuthor: qwerty » Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:10 am

it depends on the wall thickness but if there equal steel is stronger
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Unread postAuthor: frozebyte » Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:23 am

Yup i've mentioned that their equal. Hmm, if that is so, why do people choose copper over steel when steel is stronger and cheaper?
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Unread postAuthor: inonickname » Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:57 am

Copper is available in smaller sizes, is more streamlined, is more appealing, is smoother internally, ease of connection..
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Unread postAuthor: frozebyte » Sun Jul 12, 2009 2:31 am

i see. thanks for the info!
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Unread postAuthor: MRR » Sun Jul 12, 2009 4:10 am

Another problem is that very hard materials tend to break instead of bending. Steel could produce shrapnels during a fatal failure.

But thats only a problem when you push the material to the limit
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