Login    Register
User Information
Username:
Password:
We are a free and open
community, all are welcome.
Click here to Register
Sponsored
Who is online

In total there are 51 users online :: 5 registered, 0 hidden and 46 guests


Most users ever online was 218 on Wed Dec 07, 2016 6:58 pm

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], MSNbot Media, Yahoo [Bot] based on users active over the past 5 minutes

The Team
Administrators
Global Moderators
global_moderators.png CS

First original Design CO2 / compressed air Sprinkler valve

Built a pneumatic cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
Sponsored 
  • Author
    Message

First original Design CO2 / compressed air Sprinkler valve

Unread postAuthor: Maj. Tom » Sat May 28, 2011 3:31 pm

Alright folks I'm looking for some advice. Specifically about ideal chamber size and any information pertinent to the use of the Palmer Stabilizer with my air cannon. First of all, here are the pics.

Image

Image

This is one of my intermediate designs which obviously had too small of a chamber.
Image

I am trying to achieve a range of about 75-100 yards.
I have heard I can probably reach that using around 90psi or so.

Here's my theory:
The CO2 tank input psi is about 850.
I used an expansion chamber to reduce liquid entering the system and the Palmer stabilizer has come highly recommended to regulate my source pressure down to my target chamber pressure. Once the chamber has equalized and I no longer hear moving air, I close a ball valve between the stabilizer and the chamber. I have opted to do this because I don't want extra air from the source escaping through the sprinkler valve and reducing efficiency. The ball valve allows each shot to be powered by a relatively uniform measure of air from the chamber.
I am using a 300 psi gauge measuring the stabilizer output.

For those who are wondering, The trigger in this system is a 1/8" mini pneumatic push button valve from spudtech. The paintball grip frame trigger currently does not function. The grip frame will surely be nostalgic to those of you familiar with the 68 automag classic.

Here's the situation:
When I pressurize the chamber, the gauge needle levels off at target PSI.

Once I close the ball valve, the gauge begins to rise.
If I then reopen the ball valve and let the chamber re equalize, the needle returns to target value.
I believe this phenomenon is related to the operation of the stabilizer.

My logic is that if the ball valve is closed after the chamber has equalized, shouldn't the pressure be the same on both sides of the valve? If so, why does the stabilizer feel the need to allow more gas in causing the gauge needle to start moving.

During testing I have managed to render the gauge inoperable.

This Palmer stabilizer is new and has not been "broken in" with it's reccomended 2000-300 paintgun shots so I am assuming that is the reason I blew my 300psi gauge. Though I have not seen a reading that has exceeded 300psi at any time.


Before the gauge blew, I was able to test a shot at about 50-60 psi that achieved a weak sauce distance of about 30 feet That original experimental chamber only got me about 4 1/2 feet in case you were wondering.
Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I am very close to completing this project and slapping a sexy can of paint all over it. All I need now is you. What am I missing here?
  • 0

User avatar
Maj. Tom
Private
Private
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Oct 29, 2009 3:10 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: Lockednloaded » Sat May 28, 2011 4:16 pm

I've found with my experiences, those NERF footballs don't require a lot of energy to go very far. You can easily afford a smaller chamber, try a middle ground between your two previous chambers. You should also look into mounting a 200psi pop-off valve for safety's sake along with a decent pressure gauge.
  • 0

I love lamp
User avatar
Lockednloaded
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 1558
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:38 pm
Location: Texas, USA
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: al-xg » Sat May 28, 2011 7:22 pm

I haven't looked into how that regulator works, but it seems weird it doesn't actually regulate the small volume.
If it isn't meant to be happening, the only thing I can Imagine, is if some liquid or cooler CO2 gets through the regulator, it would expand slowly as it warms up. And maybe in the smaller volume, the air doesn't get to expand immediately and when it does rises faster due to smaller volume ? :?
I would have expected the expansion chamber to have done its job.

The regulator is definitely hooked up right ?
  • 0

User avatar
al-xg
Colonel
Colonel
 
Posts: 643
Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 12:29 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Sat May 28, 2011 7:54 pm

Are you sure its even the regulators? Try getting a new gauge, a sensitive one, and then see if it works.
  • 0


warhead052
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 1769
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:41 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: Hubb » Mon May 30, 2011 5:14 am

If the regulator is new, it needs to be broken in. It's actually a common problem.
  • 0

User avatar
Hubb
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 2390
Joined: Mon May 28, 2007 8:39 am
Location: South Georgia
Reputation: 2

Unread postAuthor: Maj. Tom » Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:23 pm

Alright, I've broken in the regulator, IT seems to be working a lot better now. I have yet to really test it for distance and whatnot. I also need a new gauge. Be patient my friends, and thanks for the input!
  • 0

User avatar
Maj. Tom
Private
Private
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Oct 29, 2009 3:10 pm
Reputation: 0

Return to Pneumatic Cannon Database

Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], MSNbot Media, Yahoo [Bot]

Reputation System ©'