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Machined PCP

Built a pneumatic cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:23 pm

Also if you dont own a shop compressor you can fill a soda stream tank and reg it down like i did, eliminating the need for a first stage!

In what way was that relevant to anything BtB said?
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Unread postAuthor: pneumaticcannons » Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:08 pm

Wow, great work so far man! Not sure how I missed this.
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Unread postAuthor: Brian the brain » Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:44 am

In what way was that relevant to anything BtB said?

I said the pipe insert was a brilliant find.
So...he tried to share another smart find.

Do you really get 100 bar out of the fridgy?
Damn...I never ran it that far.I got scared at half that pressure!
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Gun Freak wrote:
Oh my friggin god stop being so awesome, that thing is pure kick ass. Most innovative and creative pneumatic that the files have ever come by!

Can't ask for a better compliment!!
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:05 pm

Brian the brain wrote:
In what way was that relevant to anything BtB said?

I said the pipe insert was a brilliant find.
So...he tried to share another smart find.

Do you really get 100 bar out of the fridgy?
Damn...I never ran it that far.I got scared at half that pressure!
yes ill upload a pic, the fitting most probably wont come off as its all hydraulic and welded onto the fridgy :D

Edit: Pics!!!
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Attachments
P1011045.JPG
there Brian 100 Bar, had to turn it off just under because it shakes like crazy if the input isn't right.
P1011049.JPG
Grub screws, there long because there going through an aluminium action block aswell.
P1011054.JPG
stamped my initials L.G but it looks blurry because the tube is so shiny, also im going to do the model number &quot;0001&quot;
P1011054.JPG (28.38 KiB) Viewed 938 times
P1011057.JPG
Bluing paste, gives a really nice vintage finish
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Unread postAuthor: Brian the brain » Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:18 am

there Brian 100 Bar, had to turn it off just under because it shakes like crazy if the input isn't right.


daredevil!
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Gun Freak wrote:
Oh my friggin god stop being so awesome, that thing is pure kick ass. Most innovative and creative pneumatic that the files have ever come by!

Can't ask for a better compliment!!
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:38 am

:D


Im thinking of using a hydraulic cylinder and a lever attached to a reciprocating motor with 100 bar input to fill up-to 250 bar.

Diagram :)
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Attachments
diagram.png
not sure about motor torque?
diagram.png (25.6 KiB) Viewed 893 times
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Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:51 am

Wow, Goats, that's incredible. 100 bar out of a fridgy? Over 1,000 psi right? Your hydraulic pump idea may work.
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:41 pm

warhead052 wrote:Wow, Goats, that's incredible. 100 bar out of a fridgy? Over 1,000 psi right? Your hydraulic pump idea may work.
1500 Psi, i think the cylinder may work for water or low volume air.
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:29 pm

UPDATE: machining steel front grips tomorrow, tube with milled flats on the side, and will cover up the dodgy stamping, im going with electro engraving for the writing as stamps dont always turn up right and look "un-proffesional" :D also i have settled on all metal construction but as it will be uncomfortable to carry, the stock and pistol grip will be 6061-T4 aluminium.
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Tue May 01, 2012 1:07 pm

Sorry i haven't posted in a while, i have been really busy with other things, anyway i had some time today to do some machining, after seeing wyz's hybrid i noticed the "cool but ergonomic" fill probe, so i had a look at these and they seem stupidly simple to machine so i had a quick go, this will go on my fridgy which i installed a switch on the starting unit and removed all the unused wires, now it only has one wire coming from it and a switch mounted nicely on the rear. i only need to do the grooves
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Attachments
probe.jpg
Brass Fill probe needs o-ring grooves
probe.jpg (30.89 KiB) Viewed 763 times
P1011064.JPG
nice switch mounted in starter unit
P1011063.JPG
Switch
P1011063.JPG (30.36 KiB) Viewed 763 times
P1011065.JPG
Attached to the fridgy
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Wed May 02, 2012 8:13 am

Probes are a great way to fill IMO. I think you may end up having some trouble with extrusion though...o-ring grooves need to be deeper.

If you haven't already done so, remember to vent the hole to prevent blow out if/when you get a nicked/extruded o-ring. The vent hole should be at least the same size as the oriface in the probe itself.

Have made a few of these...

Image

Image
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Unread postAuthor: wyz2285 » Wed May 02, 2012 8:48 am

I agree, my grooves are deep (covers about 80% of the o-ring).
Still so you better vent it first then remove it.
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Wed May 02, 2012 12:13 pm

i havent cut the grooves yet i had no time and had to go for an emergency, also im having a problem with my valve insert, when i push it in the tube it gets cut in the holes ( burrs )
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Wed May 02, 2012 1:50 pm

Just to clarify...by "vent", I'm referring to a "through" hole where the probe is inserted. Failure to provide pressure a place to dissipate in the event of a leak will cause the probe to be ejected...possibly with some real force behind it.

It SHOULD go without saying that the fill line should be vented off before removing the probe as well.

i haven't cut the grooves yet


I suppose you really DO need to make them deeper then. :lol:
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Wed May 02, 2012 4:24 pm

:D im cutting off the burred part and doing it like the one in your pic.
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