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Ball Valve Question!

Built a pneumatic cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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Ball Valve Question!

Unread postAuthor: doomburger » Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:36 pm

Hey guys! I'm buying a 2.5" PVC ball valve (can't find a sprinkler valve anywhere) for my spud gun, and someone has told me that after a while it starts to become stiff and harder to turn. Is this true, and if it is, around how long does it last until it starts to become stiff?
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:44 pm

They get stiff, and you'll need to lubricate it, I use vaseline, some people swear by silicone spray. Don't use WD40 or the like.

Why not build a piston?
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Unread postAuthor: doomburger » Tue Jul 31, 2012 11:58 pm

Ah thanks. I have a bottle of silicon spray right next to me! :D I'm not building a piston because a ball valve is so much simpler :P
However, I have a problem: How am I supposed to lube the ball valve if there are tubes on both sides? (I can't reach the ball valve)
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:13 am

can you find a union?

Image

Because if so, screw ball valves, go burst disk!

From another thread:

If you want a high performance big bore without breaking the bank, consider something like this design:

Image

You can make the chamber and barrel out of the same type of tubing, all you need is the chamber capped on one end with a valve of some sort in order to supply the air, and on the other end you attach a union.

All you have to do is sandwich a disk of frangible material (foil etc.) and when a certain pressure is reached in the chamber, BOOM!, Robert's your mother's brother.

It is a bit of a pain in the arse having to install new burst disks for every shot but really this is the only way to get the best performance out of a pneumatic on a very low budget.

At 100-150 psi with a long enough chamber and barrel, performance should be quite impressive.
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:22 am

Jack's right, barring valveless that's the highest performance you can get from a pneubmatic. Chuck in a spark gap and you've got the option for a very low mix hybrid or combustion.

To lubricate the ball valve if you can't be convinced out of it, spray the silicone onto a rag, and poke it down against the BV, then rotate it a few times.
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Unread postAuthor: doomburger » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:26 am

No luck with finding any unions either...
How can I lube a ball valve with tubes on both ends??? :(
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:34 am

Surely both sides aren't closed? Tie the rag to a stickand poke it down.
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:39 am

Zeus wrote:Tie the rag to a stick and poke it down.


This method also works for unclean members of the fairer sex :D
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Unread postAuthor: doomburger » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:40 am

Ah thanks, I guess I'll do that. You only need to lubricate one side of the ball valve?

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:
Zeus wrote:Tie the rag to a stick and poke it down.


This method also works for unclean members of the fairer sex :D


Haha :D
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:42 am

I was hoping you'd get that JSR. I don't recommend silicone spray though, unless your partner is made of the same. :D :D :D

Edit: It'll spread out over a few turns, like the fairer sex...
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Unread postAuthor: doomburger » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:49 am

To lubricate the other side as well, the ball valve would have to turn at least 180 degrees...
I am under the impression that ball valves can only turn 90 degrees. Right? :o

EDIT: My ball valve looks somewhat like this
http://www.spudfiles.com/spud_wiki/inde ... _valve.jpg
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Unread postAuthor: Zeus » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:52 am

Not if you dremel down the plastic nubs, or reverse the handle of a threaded metal BV.
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Unread postAuthor: doomburger » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:54 am

Ah I see now! you have enlightened me :P Thanks!
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