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My 1st Pneumatic (The P-Trap)

Built a pneumatic cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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My 1st Pneumatic (The P-Trap)

Unread postAuthor: kraken » Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:09 pm

I know that this isn't a pic of the real thing but it is an accurate 3d model of it. I would put up some real pics but right now it is made from DWV fittings. I'm going to rebuild it with NSF-pw fittings but I'll have to order them off the internet. Most places don't carry 3" and 4" water supply fittings. I've only been using it at 60psi and I do have a remote hose so I can hide behind trees when firing.
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Last edited by kraken on Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Unread postAuthor: PVC Arsenal 17 » Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:10 pm

I think you forgot the 3d pic
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Unread postAuthor: kraken » Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:18 pm

I fixed it. I forgot to do something the first time. My model is missing my bumper. I used one of thoes temporary rubber caps but I cut a big hole in it so air can get from the inlet (in the cleanout) to the pilot area. A 3" temp cap fits perfectly inside of a 4" cleanout cap.
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Unread postAuthor: CS » Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:58 pm

Just a few suggestions as to your designs:

First on the barrel it seems that you forgot to add a male adapter to connect to the female adapter.

Second 'butt' all connections in which a short length of pipe is used to connect to female slip joints. In the case of the following connections:
2" Female Adapter > 2"x 4" Bushing
4" Tee > 4" 90* Elbow
4" 45* Elbow > 4" 90* Elbow
4" 45* Elbow > 4" 45* Elbow

Simply combine the socket depths of both fittings and subtract a 1/8" or so. This will assure that the fittings are 'butted', yet you dont loose the crictical socket depth by cutting it too short. The reason I suggest that 1/8" buffer or so is to account and imperfections in cutting methods. Such can be reduced when cutting with a circular saw, this still has its flaws when the blade is not perpdicular to the work surface. Removing burs as this can also result in a poorly 'butted' joint.

As I see from the CAD animation that it displays the fittings 'butted'. Ive seen other members do such, then come back not butting the fittings. Im just telling you in the event if you care to listen, or didnt intend to do so. It should be noted that doing such is purely cosmetic.
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Unread postAuthor: kraken » Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:25 pm

Yeah I know about needing the 4" pipe between the fittings. I'm just lazy and didn't feel like modeling them. The reason I've got everything butted is because it keeps everything compact. I'm all about cosmetics. If I did my math right with everything butted I should be able to use my 4" barrel. I also didn't model the bi-pod I made for it.
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Unread postAuthor: Dan003400 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:28 am

Wait u can make that in a 2 1/2 T u should make it 3" porting, that makes no sence have u ver seen Gorts 2" porting mauler valve, i have shot it and it is crazzy!!! i mean we have to wear ear plaugs, Make a design with 3" porting, gort is working on a 2 1/2 portin with 3" T so yea get that to 3" porting and it will be KICK Ass!
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Unread postAuthor: itwentboom » Wed Mar 21, 2007 4:26 pm

What program did you use for these plans?
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Unread postAuthor: goathunter » Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:37 pm

Sure gonna be Big. What do you plan on shooting? And I would also like to know what program you used to draw that up.
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