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Golf Ball Cannon

Built a pneumatic cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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Unread postAuthor: sgort87 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:45 pm

My physical data pumped into GGDT by BenStern says it is better than a Supah. I have done chrony tests and he got my CV from that and he says it's supposed to be the better of the two. I am not counting on it because mistakes are made, but, yeah.

And about my lathing, most of the lathing I do for this is cosmetic, or where tolerances don't matter. The part that matters the most is the 2 o-ring grooves on the piston. I have really gotten it down to a system where I can see how well the o ring will fit as I am cutting. After the o-ring is put in, I lube it up and put it in the piston track and do the "feel test". B sliding it in the track, I know how much I have to take off. And just so you know, all of my valves (this current model) have been giving the same chrony results.
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Unread postAuthor: CS » Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:08 pm

BenStern, the same person that almost had to be put on anti-depressants, because his IP address was changed? Sorry, I wouldn’t count on any data as a result of that source.

Well on the lathing of a piston valve, I wouldn’t consider any of it to be terribly tolerance strict, other then that of the mentioned O-ring groove. Personally I wouldn’t consider the 'feel test' to trusty in the replication of a mechanical device such as a piston valve. A simple defect from machining could qualify it of the 'feel test' when in fact the chip is the only thing qualifying it, possibly lather resulting in a failure, or loss in performance. I just like working off the fact that I know in fact my tolerances are correct, if the given doesn’t work, I know that I either made a defect in the work piece, or there’s a mathematical error of some degree. Different standards I suppose.
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 5:19 pm

HOLY CRAP I just wanted to test it to make sure it worked so I filled my compressor then brought in in my house (since its cold) and I filled it to 40psi and fired it without the barrel on. Holy crap that thing is loud it scared the crap out of me it blew these papers that were like 20 feet away across the room. It is going to be sick pumping it to 115psi. It has a really nice CRACK to it.
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Tue Dec 19, 2006 5:55 pm

Yeah, its dangerous to test the valve without the barrel as the recoil can snap it straight off the gun.
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 5:59 pm

How would having the barrel of make it not snap off and I doubt that the recoil would cause the valve to snap right off.
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Unread postAuthor: Velocity » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:11 pm

It is likely that the supah valve may have slightly better machined parts, simply because it is made on a metal lathe. However, the supah valve is a chamber-sealer, while the mauler is a barrel-sealer, and I believe that this gives a distinct advantage to the Mauler valve
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Unread postAuthor: beebs111 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:28 pm

why would you just use a "feel test" as opposed to a pair of calipers, there like 5 bucks for a pair. oh, and can i have a mauler for christmas please??? and why wouldn't you just put a spring into your valve, i know it sounds simplaer than it is, but it would only have to apply 5-10 pounds of pressure to keep the piston sealed untill the air equalized, and you could put a stronger spring in in order to help with the piston's recoil
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Unread postAuthor: Insomniac » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:40 pm

Because putting a spring behind it would mean that the piston has to push against it when fired, thus slowing down the piston........ :idea: I have a great idea! If there are any metal parts on the piston, a strong magnet could be used from outside the gun to seal the piston, and the magnet could be taken away before fireing!!! This wouldn't be a big help on large pistons, but for smaller guns it should work!

You can get really big magnets for free by ripping them out of an old microwave's magnetron!
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:55 pm

I never said anything about recoil, let alone recoil being a problem.
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Tue Dec 19, 2006 8:56 pm

MisterSteve124 wrote:How would having the barrel of make it not snap off and I doubt that the recoil would cause the valve to snap right off.


Its dangerous to test your piston without the barrel at high pressures, like in the Americannon video Rmich only takes it up to 30psi or something,and thats where I heard that the recoil can snap the tee off,or I may of got it of spudtech.
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Unread postAuthor: beebs111 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 8:56 pm

i wasn't talking about Recoil as in the kick of the gun, i was talking about how the piston slams back against the back of the valve and how a spring would help that. it just a suggestion for gort, and if it was only a 5 ound spring it would only decrease the speed by a little bit.
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:02 pm

Oh ok thanks Crowley thats good to know. Yeah I only took it to like 30psi cause I just wanted to test it. And beebs it doesn't really matter to me that it slams I like the noise and it is no problem to my neighbors.
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Unread postAuthor: PVC Arsenal 17 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:10 pm

So, if we were to give gort some god-like skills and a metal lathe, which could we assume is better then? Really it all comes down chamber vs. barrel sealer. Has anyone ever proved one better than the other?
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:19 pm

Well I guess you could also say a mauler is better because it doesn't take 6 months to ship and you can actually contact gort if you need to :lol: .
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Unread postAuthor: PVC Arsenal 17 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:17 pm

Yeah Joel doesn't seem to be very friendly. I understand he has work to do, but in order to do good business you have to know how to deal with people somewhat pleasantly.
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