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Golf Ball Cannon

Built a pneumatic cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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Golf Ball Cannon

Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:19 pm

Well here's my brand new golf ball cannon that I got all the parts for christmas. It has a 24"x 4" chamber and a 60" golf ball barrel (1.5" sdr 21 sleeved in 2" sch.80). It uses a 2" porting mauler valve. I haven't used it yet since its my chrismas present so I will post some results after I shoot it.


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Unread postAuthor: Insomniac » Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:32 pm

Nice, I like it. How do the mauler valves compare to the Supahs?
Exeptionally clean build(or haven't you glued it yet lol) When you get a chance to shoot it, fire at a stack of cd's and get a video. Now THAT would be spectacular.

Hehehehehe I replied first lol.
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Last edited by Insomniac on Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:43 pm

Well no one is exactly sure because they haven't been tested yet but its supposed to be just as good. Yeah I bought some clear primer so there wouldn't be purple stains all over. I will definetly post damage pics and videos once I fire it.
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Unread postAuthor: sgort87 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:57 pm

These have been tested, just not against a Supah. GGDT keeps giving results of this being better though. I really hope it's true.
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Unread postAuthor: Insomniac » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:10 pm

Gort, you were the one who designed the Mauler, correct? Is it a chamber sealer or a barrel sealer?
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:25 pm

Yeah he designed it its a barrel sealer vs. the supah which is a chamber sealer. I bet it is better than the supah.
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:29 pm

Well from looking at this gun you can tell its a barrel sealer...... :roll:
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Unread postAuthor: beebs111 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:29 pm

there are a lot of ways to measure "better" it is a factor of reliability, efficiency, power, and gaurentueed-ness
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:30 pm

well in this case I say we're looking at just plain power.
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Unread postAuthor: sgort87 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:35 pm

Efficiency as well I believe.

The only downside to this, which does not matter to many people, is that this needs to be filled from behind the piston. A Supah does not because of its spring.
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Unread postAuthor: experament_u2 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:42 pm

that is a awsome gun man looking forward to some damage
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:45 pm

What do you guys sugest shooting it at for damge shots? I was thinking maybe this old tv I have or a huge chunck of ballistics gel or maybe just plain old plywood.
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Unread postAuthor: Insomniac » Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:06 pm

Yeah, I've heard barrel sealers are better.
Who cares if it has to be filled from behind the piston???
SHOOT SOME CD'S they shatter and shiny foil goes EVERYWHERE
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Unread postAuthor: homeflake210 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:01 pm

Nice canon, Gort is shipping me a Mauler tomorrow. Some damage pics would be cool.
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Unread postAuthor: CS » Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:38 pm

As to the gun, noice!
Clear primer and glue really helped this thing come out clean. Clean to the point you don’t want to paint it. :-p Might be a bit difficult to tow around, although I bet the power of the gun itself makes it well worth it.

I wouldn’t simply go with ones own natural bias, and start to claim it to be superior. It is known that Joel machines the Supah on a metal lathe, capable of .001” tolerances. While Gort does such on a wood lathe. Quite simply these machines aren’t designed of producing strict tolerances. Heck, I’ve never heard of a wood project requiring anything near .01”. In the diameter were talking lathing a O-ring to just 1% squeeze is going to result in a ~.00125” difference. A wood lathe quite simply cant touch that. Remember a lathe uses a series of acme rods to jog the tool post, with the tooling tightly secured, along the bed. So all the operations are mechanical, with the user input of spinning one of several crank/hand wheels to rotate the acme rod, converting this into a linear motion. A wood lathe simply has a flat rest linear to the work piece secured to the bed. The user simply uses a tool, similar in size to that of a screwdriver, with a sharpened end and while resting along this rest, the user feeds such into the work piece. I mean I don’t think a well trained sniper could even pull off tolerances achieved by a metal lathe on a wood lathe.

I’m not drawing any conclusions, just stating that one cannot simply start to support one as there is many to factors to compare. I could only see physical data turning up such support.
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