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Slayer Valve (barrel sealing piston all housed in 2" Te

Built a pneumatic cannon? Then post it here! This section is for completed, finished cannons that you have built. Please include pictures and information.
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Slayer Valve (barrel sealing piston all housed in 2" Te

Unread postAuthor: origin unknown » Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:37 am

This is the Slayer. Yay, My first barrel sealing piston valve!!! I loved Gorts' mauler design that looked so well completely inside a Tee, so I decided to make something similar. I got success! It is too hard to explain how I fit all this in a Tee. The back cap made from a bushing held in with set screws leaks. I will have to put O-rings on that once I can get some that are the right size. The piston is very similar to the design I proposed earlier this week. It has a check valve made from a flap of rubber and a hole. The piston has 2" solid pvc rod that I made a 3/4" long washer and a 5/16" long washer with. This will all explain itself once you see this: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtopic,p,101979.html#101979. Now for the good stuff...

Valve specs:
Pilot volume - 4.71 cubic inches
Porting - 1.5"
Tee - 2"
Type - barrel sealing piston
Piston - made from threaded rod, nuts, washers, custom pvc washers, neoprene, thin rubber washers, will add O-rings as soon as I can find some of the right size
Pilot - 1/2" ball valve, hopefully I can go down to 1/4" once I put O-rings on the piston

I MADE THIS WITHOUT A LATHE, JUST A CHOP SAW, A HACKSAW AND A DRILL AND A DREMEL TOOL.
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Attachments
pvalve4.JPG
pvalve3.JPG
Barrel side of the valve
pvalve2.JPG
pvalve.JPG
The Slayer in all its glory
Last edited by origin unknown on Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Unread postAuthor: homedepotpro » Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:40 am

very clean, do you have a gun for it yet
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Unread postAuthor: origin unknown » Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:42 am

Not yet, just a chamber to test fire it. I need to fix that leak around the back cap though though...
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Unread postAuthor: spud yeti » Wed Jul 11, 2007 7:32 am

Very nice! Yeah, gorts mauler also inspired me to make a tee valve, which is being added to a gun at this very moment. Great work, hope you seal the leak though!
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Unread postAuthor: unisonmind » Wed Jul 11, 2007 8:52 am

what did you use to seal the back cap -o-rings or did you just glue it in?
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Wed Jul 11, 2007 9:29 am

It looks awesome!
Build a gun around it as fast as you can!
And then build a BIG gun eh ;)

I bet it will be one hell of a monstergun.
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Unread postAuthor: origin unknown » Wed Jul 11, 2007 3:04 pm

I used set screws to keep it in, and I used teflon tape to attempt to seal it which didn't work out so well. I am going to get O-rings on the back cap, and on the back of the piston. That should seal it. It is going to be used on a mid sized golf ball gun, I might order the golf ball barrel from sgort so I dont have to buy sch80 and sdr21, and it will be cheaper too.
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Unread postAuthor: Mitchza89 » Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:38 pm

Gorgeous looking valve. you did a great job on this one.
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Unread postAuthor: Modderxtrordanare » Fri Jul 13, 2007 2:41 am

Instead of looking for o-rings that fit properly, why not just buy a big long roll of o-ring stock? Custom fit to any shape, size, or length. :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: frankrede » Fri Jul 13, 2007 3:12 am

How do you get the o ring stock to connect?
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Unread postAuthor: tylerthetatertosser » Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:16 am

when i made my valve i had the same issue with it not sealing i suggest possibly using silicone and cut the silicone if you ever need to service the piston and teflon the screws.
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Unread postAuthor: Gepard » Fri Jul 13, 2007 5:06 am

Frankreke.

You glue it together.


Remember to take pi as 3 when working out the length so that it's tight.

Michael
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Unread postAuthor: Modderxtrordanare » Fri Jul 13, 2007 9:26 am

Gepard wrote:Frankreke.

You glue it together.


Remember to take pi as 3 when working out the length so that it's tight.

Michael


Last time I checked, pi was 3.141592652582973 and so on. Personally, getting a 20 foot stock of it, and just wrapping it around and then cutting it off at the right spot would be alot easier then doing the math to find out how long it should be cut, and then finding out you messed up.
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Unread postAuthor: Gepard » Fri Jul 13, 2007 9:35 am

That's why I added on 'so that it's tight'. The difference between the actual value of pi and 3 is enough that it keeps the o-ring tought.

Seems to me it would be easier to work out through maths than "hack and hope" (of course assuming you can use C=6*r)

Michael
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Unread postAuthor: Modderxtrordanare » Fri Jul 13, 2007 9:42 am

Gepard wrote:That's why I added on 'so that it's tight'. The difference between the actual value of pi and 3 is enough that it keeps the o-ring tought.

Seems to me it would be easier to work out through maths than "hack and hope" (of course assuming you can use C=6*r)

Michael


I suppose if you have trouble picking up a roll of o-ring stock, and placing it where it's supposed to be, and cutting it, then you should do your math first. When your o-rings don't fit, just remember I told you so.
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