Login    Register
User Information
Username:
Password:
We are a free and open
community, all are welcome.
Click here to Register
Sponsored
Who is online

In total there are 50 users online :: 5 registered, 0 hidden and 45 guests


Most users ever online was 155 on Mon Aug 15, 2016 1:40 am

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], MSNbot Media, Yahoo [Bot] based on users active over the past 5 minutes

The Team
Administrators
Global Moderators
global_moderators.png CS

Re design of 1 1/2 inch piston and housing Tee

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
Sponsored 
  • Author
    Message

Re design of 1 1/2 inch piston and housing Tee

Unread postAuthor: LikimysCrotchus5 » Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:11 pm

Well if you didnt notice my other post, i made a 1 1/2 inch piston which now doesnt work. But im not stopping there. I am going to recast and recreate my piston and my gun with improvements. Well i knew this would be hard to describe in words so............I made a diagram!!!!! :D

It is pretty much self explanatory

Image

If you cant read my important question i have there, this is what it says

"Now here is my important question, would i have to put a hole here because i inserted a 1 1/2 inch pipe into the Tee? Now the vertical part of the Tee (Meaning the up down part) is blocked by the 1 1/2 inch pipe. So would i have to put a hole in the 1 1/2 inch pipe so that air can get into the chamber? And this is NOT a equilization hole i am talking about."

I have thought about the question there that i wrote, and if that hole isnt there, then the air would not be about to go into the chamber because it is being blocked by the pipe.
I hope to finish this today because i have to go to school tomorrow and i fall is coming so i gotta finish. Hope to hear from the best of ya. :D
  • 0

Last edited by LikimysCrotchus5 on Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
LikimysCrotchus5
Brigadier General
Brigadier General
 
Posts: 1100
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:16 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:26 pm

Of course you will need to drill a hole in the 1 1/2" pipe if it passes through far enough to block the chamber port. Do you think that the air is going to magically pass through the wall of the pipe?

I don't see how this will resolve the problems you are having with your current valve. Your problem does not result from some defect in the construction of the valve body, it lies within either the piston, or the piston's seat.

Did you lubricate the piston and the piston's rubber sealing face before inserting it into the valve?

Did you cut the 3/4" pipe square, then cement it into the chamber at the proper angle? Are there any significant imperfections on the end of the pipe?

Troubleshoot the problem, don't just rebuild the entire valve and hope that it works.
  • 0

People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
User avatar
SpudBlaster15
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 2385
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:12 pm
Location: Canada
Country: Poland (pl)
Reputation: 3

Unread postAuthor: origin unknown » Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:33 pm

That design will be way too much trouble to make and wouldn't be worth the effort. Make a valve that is like this: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/c19os-1-5-barrel-sealing-golfball-gun-t10494.html Heres another valve that is constructed the same way as c19o's exept for the bolt in back part: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/pvcmasters-new-barrel-sealer-t10086.html
. With these two valves I hope you can take what you can from both and make a working piston valve. I made a version of c19o's valve in one day with only a saw and some pvc glue.
  • 0

Ecclesiastes 1:9 - What has been will be again, what has been done will be done again; there is nothing new under the sun.
User avatar
origin unknown
Colonel
Colonel
 
Posts: 533
Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:38 pm
Location: Searcy, Arkansas (college) and Memphis, TN (hometown)
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: LikimysCrotchus5 » Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:34 pm

I am going by Mrcrowley's advice on this post. The reason why i mentioned this is because i was talking to spudguneryyyyy and he didnt understand my question and kept giving me a different answer that did not resolve the problem i was talking about. I did lubricate the piston but i am going to remake the piston and recast it so that it is very tight so that it will for sure work. I didnt say i am going to recast the piston using a scrap piece of 1 1/2 inch pipe and that will make it tight. And for the barrel it wasnt cut, it was purely flat striaght store bought. And also why would i need to lubricate the sealing Face? with this new design, i am getting rid of the lip and putting 1 1/2 inch pipe that will resolve my problem of the smoothness of the piston in the piston housing. It is all cemented in a proper angle. So i am pretty sure i am resolving my problems.

Edit: Ooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. I think i have misunderstood some stuff that i was told. NVM. Huh man it sucks just getting things wrong, especially when you just finished it and you did it wrong.

@ origin unknown
Ok i can see how to do that. I probably cant make one like c190's because i cant make a o-ring so i can try pvc master's design
  • 0

Last edited by LikimysCrotchus5 on Sun Oct 21, 2007 1:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
LikimysCrotchus5
Brigadier General
Brigadier General
 
Posts: 1100
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:16 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: origin unknown » Sun Oct 21, 2007 1:13 pm

You dont have to have O-rings for c19o's valve. I made one like his and I dont have O-rings. His valve is basically pvcmaster's with a female adapter and a threaded cap on the back end with 2" pipe for the piston to travel in. pvcmaster had a problem with the back end of his valve leaking so you should go with c19o's back end design to eliminate problems.
  • 0

Ecclesiastes 1:9 - What has been will be again, what has been done will be done again; there is nothing new under the sun.
User avatar
origin unknown
Colonel
Colonel
 
Posts: 533
Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:38 pm
Location: Searcy, Arkansas (college) and Memphis, TN (hometown)
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: LikimysCrotchus5 » Sun Oct 21, 2007 1:23 pm

Ok i would try to do that but because Home depot doesnt have all i need to make c19o's valve, i cant really make it. Just makes me mad that i am limited with materials :evil:
  • 0

User avatar
LikimysCrotchus5
Brigadier General
Brigadier General
 
Posts: 1100
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:16 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: origin unknown » Sun Oct 21, 2007 1:33 pm

Don't make a bolt in back cap because they are way too hard to keep from leaking. That is the point I was tryin to make. Your above valve will work if you dont have the 1.5" pipe extend all the way to the bushing reducer like that. Instead have the 1.5" pipe extend only to were the downwards part of the tee starts.
  • 0

Ecclesiastes 1:9 - What has been will be again, what has been done will be done again; there is nothing new under the sun.
User avatar
origin unknown
Colonel
Colonel
 
Posts: 533
Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:38 pm
Location: Searcy, Arkansas (college) and Memphis, TN (hometown)
Reputation: 0

Sponsored

Sponsor
 


Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Sun Oct 21, 2007 4:30 pm

All I can say, is keep your old setup, the piston housing is fine, the piston that you made isn't. All you need to do is adapt the piston to your needs and fix the flaws. For this I suggest reading my post in your old thread.

You're supposed to only let the 1 1/2" pipe go about 2" in, so it hits the lip before the bottom opening. But make sure you have left room in the tee socket for a plug to be bolted in.

Read my post in thisd thread:
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtop ... tml#127474

Have you seen this?
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/how-to- ... 10381.html

That might help you, though I used a end cap instead of a plug for the pilot setup, which I have recently changed to a threaded adapter.

Here's a quick diagram:

Black = Tee
Green = sleeved pipe
Maroon = 'lip' inside tee
Grey = Reducing threaded plug
Brown - Pilot setup
Yellow = fill valve
red circle = ball valve(pilot valve)
Orange = piston(the grey is a bolt and the washer holding on the sealing face)
Purple = Barrel
Sky Blue = sealing face
  • 0

Attachments
Untitled.jpg
PIston Diagram
Untitled.jpg (36.28 KiB) Viewed 230 times
User avatar
MrCrowley
Moderator
Moderator
 
Posts: 10207
Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2006 10:42 pm
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Country: New Zealand (nz)
Reputation: 4

Return to Pneumatic Cannon Discussion

Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], MSNbot Media, Yahoo [Bot]

Reputation System ©'