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pneumatic sniper

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:41 pm

sniper hero wrote:just all the things you see in the pictures and soldering stuff.
but do you think it's better to make the smaller pipe in the pipe that comes from the stock/chamber?
.___ _______
......\/ _|____| I hope you reconise the gun



I mean the pipe that is showed above with: /
for my idea

ignore the dots


I should get an bigger tee. As I already told you sometime.
If not, then you should make the porting of the valve smaller to get the piston seal on. Wich constricts flow.
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Unread postAuthor: sniper hero » Tue Apr 08, 2008 4:15 pm

I know it constrics the flow but it makes it easier and the bigger tee makes it look different and cost money again :(
I have at home 22mm pipe copper and some other metal pipes in some bigger and smaller diameters which diameter would be best
think of sealing and flow

thanks for helping me btw :D
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:39 am

Thats what I am here for! Helping eachother!

But.... are you making a barrel or a chamber sealer?
Because it looks like a chamber sealer this way, and I wont recommend that to you, its more complicated.
Your tee is turned wrong I think.

EDIT: Pic!

Image

Look: this is why your tee is wrong.
I assume you dont want a chamber sealer and thus its not in the correct position.
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Unread postAuthor: sniper hero » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:20 am

ok but what would be wrong with chamber sealing
it is easier to make the pilot valve then
but do you think 22mm is the best to use as maller pipe ?
and are equalisation holes important? I have 2 bike tire valves
I will start soon with making diagrams :D
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:33 pm

Because a chamber sealers NEED o-rings and a 100% NO leakage from the pilot past the piston.
In barrel sealers it doest leak because the pressure is equal along the side of the piston. You only need a sealing face to seal off the barrel port wich is easy due to the force on the piston.
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Unread postAuthor: sniper hero » Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:11 pm

yes but I just can't get why the piston would move fast if the air comes from the side
but I have O-rings at home so that may make a difference

i am sure my next gun will be less complicated
and I found O-ring that fits in the barrel to stop the marble from rolling into the chamber
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:46 am

sniper hero wrote:yes but I just can't get why the piston would move fast if the air comes from the side
but I have O-rings at home so that may make a difference

i am sure my next gun will be less complicated
and I found O-ring that fits in the barrel to stop the marble from rolling into the chamber


I have the idea that you are understanding piston valves a tiny bit wrong.
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtopic,p,86292.html#86292
Take a look and understand why you are NOT chosing the easy way now.

It doesnt matter from what side the air comes. It about pressure that moves the piston, not flow from the front.
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Unread postAuthor: sniper hero » Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:23 am

I understand pistons very well but it's just strange for me the piston moves if it's pushed side ways
but what about my question about equalistion holes
heating up the tee will heat the solder and then i'm able to make it lose and turn it , right?

and will it work if I tape the smaller pipe and then insert it and then use epoxy?

O and what a good programme to use for diagrams (or is there a topic for that?)
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:15 am

Hmm ok
Im not experienced with pipe soldering but
Yes if you heat it up enough you should be able to pull it out again.
I cant see why not when the solder becomes fluid again.

For the smaller pipe, yes you could use epoxy to build it in.
But make sure its in straight.

Dont take a pipe too small, just a bit smaller.

Make sure the pipe is cut square to make a good seal against the piston.
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Unread postAuthor: Jared Haehnel » Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:21 am

Psycix is right...heat it up again to pull it apart...I use an old CAD program to make my own diagrams but a lot of people here..like to use MS Piant
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