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backwards valve?

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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backwards valve?

Unread postAuthor: enginerd » Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:04 pm

ok so i build my cannon and put the valve in with the arrows pointing in the direction of the flow, the only problem is when i pressurize it it leaks down the tube. i checked everything there's no debris on the diaphragm or the seal. but i noticed the pressure balance hole goes from the output part of the chamber to the part above the diaphragm. and as far as i can gather it should be on the input section of the body and go to the upper chamber. do you think just reversing the valve would work? or should i go get a different valve? also where do you suggest buying your sprinkler valves, homedepot doesn't have them, i got my whacky one from menards, and i leave for 8 weeks on sunday and i'd like to try get a shot off.
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Unread postAuthor: Carlman » Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:18 pm

can you get a picture for us that would hep us sort it out

by the way that was really hard to read, try new lines :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: Jared Haehnel » Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:19 pm

Try reversing the valve before you do anything drastic. Have you modded the valve yet or is it out of the box?


I agree with Carl pots some pics...
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Unread postAuthor: enginerd » Tue Mar 25, 2008 2:18 pm

ok well i tried to mod the valve, i got it done with 1/4 npt but it was threaded into about 3/32 thick plastic so i decided for a bigger diameter (3/8 npt) but i couldn't find a tap to tap the hole so i put the flow control back in and tried it with the solenoid.

MERGED:

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x179 ... G_2031.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x179 ... G_2030.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x179 ... G_2028.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x179 ... G_2026.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x179 ... G_2022.jpg

MERGED:

backwards is a no, although it does make one heck of a horn, also when it's backwards the solenoid needs to be on to fill
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Unread postAuthor: Hydra » Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:03 am

I recommend getting a new one. Oh and edit your posts, dont make quadruple posts.
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Unread postAuthor: BigGrib » Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:17 am

ok well i tried to mod the valve, i got it done with 1/4 npt but it was threaded into about 3/32 thick plastic so i decided for a bigger diameter (3/8 npt) but i couldn't find a tap to tap the hole so i put the flow control back in and tried it with the solenoid.

1/4 is probably your best bet. even with the thickness of that it'll probably still hold up to the pressure, i mean sprinkler valves usually arent rated above 150. one thing you need to invest in is some 5 minute epoxy. spackle that crap around your fitting, make it stronger. as far as a tap, dude you are screwing metal into plastic. if you're a poof yeah use a tap but if you're a man stick a 9/16 socket on the deal and rachet that sucker in. it'll cut the threads as it goes in. really easy to do. once you get the threads started pull it back out and when your ready slather some epoxy around the threads and screw it back in.

I recommend getting a new one.

Yeah screw that. Dude if your car breaks down do you just go buy a new one, hell no, you fix it.

Ok so i read the original post and from what you have said, I have had the same problem with the first 1" valve i got. It is a 1" irritol valve and the guide rod is hollow and the where the rod attaches below the diaphragm into the body of the valve there is a hole on the output side of the valve that directly connects to the hollow guide rod. when i first modded the valve i noticed the same thing, the valve would not seal because the pilot side of the valve was constantly being piloted through the guide rod and out the output. solution, simple.... epoxy. i ended up mixing a little bit thinner batch of epoxy and dripped it into the hole on the output side of the valve and sucked on the guide rod til the hole was empty. i let that set a little bit and then filled the hole back up with a 1:1 mix of epoxy. once it setup i was able to close the valve under lung power. just something for you to think about. i can post pictures if anyone needs a visual.
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Last edited by BigGrib on Wed Mar 26, 2008 4:19 am, edited 2 times in total.
Yea, that's definitely going to get you at least a tazer.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkMkGOpAF4s">DONT TAZE ME BRO.. DONT TAZE ME... AHHHH</a>
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Unread postAuthor: BigGrib » Wed Mar 26, 2008 4:04 am

Ok so i decided to quit being lazy and take a couple pictures. And yes I know double post, but you will see that it is over half an hour apart and I need the spud bux.
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Attachments
Valve 02.jpg
Looking into the barrel side of the valve, you can see the hole and the epoxy
Valve 02.jpg (17.61 KiB) Viewed 479 times
Valve 01.jpg
looking into the body of the valve. I have marked the in and out side the hollow guide rod and where it outlets to so you can get a whole overview of where everything is.
Valve 01.jpg (13.34 KiB) Viewed 479 times
Yea, that's definitely going to get you at least a tazer.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkMkGOpAF4s">DONT TAZE ME BRO.. DONT TAZE ME... AHHHH</a>
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Unread postAuthor: clide » Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:37 pm

The hole that leads from above the diaphragm to the outlet side (and through the solenoid port) is the exhaust hole. The whole area where the solenoid previously screwed in should be filled with epoxy. The hole in the middle where the guide rod goes through is also the equalization hole.
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Unread postAuthor: Carlman » Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:16 am

lol you have the same valve as me, i couldnt get it to work till i filled that rod with epoxy.

now it works just fine :D
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