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the 1.5in 150$ sprinkler valve

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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the 1.5in 150$ sprinkler valve

Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Sat Sep 06, 2008 4:42 pm

I found a 1.5 in sprinkler valve today, they discarded it because the solenoid was broken (it really wasn't, it was just caked with mud). It looks like the 1.5in one from here:
http://store.rainbird.com/shopexd.asp?id=529
It says rainbird on it, and nothing else. Can anyone find a pressure rating for it?

I modded it today, If you look at the pic in the link, the purple thing slides of, and theres a brass pipe. It's threaded and there is a plug in it, with a long rod attached (im assuming its the diaprham guide rod). Do i need this? it would be a nice place to attach the piolt. There is also a big spring inside, do i keep this? The spring is made tighter by spinning the purple thing, on the loosest, it leaks through when i blow through it, and on tightest it doesnt.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudFarm » Sat Sep 06, 2008 4:48 pm

just don't use over 150psi and you are okay ;)
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Unread postAuthor: clide » Sat Sep 06, 2008 6:41 pm

http://www.rainbird.com/landscape/produ ... series.htm

You don't need the guide-rod, but if you remove it then you'll want to partially close the hole that it leaves in the diaphragm so some air can leak through, but not too much. Keep the spring.
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Unread postAuthor: starman » Sat Sep 06, 2008 6:47 pm

That's a great find RP. You just saved yourself 150 clams.. :shock: My guess is that its performance will be quite admirable for golfball or tater shooting.

You should keep all the springs intact inside. As far as the other pipes and such, I would have to see it to be sure. If you have any doubt, you best leave it intact.

There's not many around here that have used a sprinkler valve that large. Do you have any plans for it yet?
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:40 am

No i do not, i dont even have any other fittings that size, althought the valve was connected to a 1 1/2" Union to =p

The valve is now clean and not repulsive to handel (found some spiders in it when i took out if the bag at home :shock: ). Im gonna test it today.
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Unread postAuthor: Carlman » Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:49 am

i made a gun with that size valve, works a treat as a TB gun.

i now have a 3" black valve rated to 220psi which will be seeing some action soon enough :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:56 am

what size do TB's fit in good? And does anyone know if the solenoids wire is potted?

EDIT; For the water leaking into the top, there is a round steel screen (tiny perferations) that goes to the top. I filled the insode with epoxy putty so it cant leave.

http://www.rainbird.com/images/products ... way_bg.jpg

is a good diagram of it, now i also know theres an O-ring on the brass thing, i was going to wpoxy it so it wouldn't be adjustable.
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Unread postAuthor: starman » Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:17 am

rp181 wrote:what size do TB's fit in good? And does anyone know if the solenoids wire is potted?


2.5" sched 40 is the most common TB barrel, a little tight for new balls but works well.

The solenoid's wires on my Orbit Watermater are not potted. They do fit fairly tightly through the plastic encapsulation but I wouldn't call it water (or air) proof. Why is potted wires on the solenoids of interest to you?
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:30 am

because it was dirty and i washed it =)

Also concerning the solenoid:

Inside the solenoid there is a metal rod, that is rubber tipped with a spring behind it. At the end of the solenoid, there is a little orange piece. When the solenoid is not powered, it blocks flow from the outer edges to the inner tube, when open, it alows flow. I was thinking, this would be good for a adjustable rate of fire gun, bb sized. The barrel would run through the chamber in a co axial fashion, with the solenoid at one end. When the chamber is pressurized, and solenoid open, air would flow from the chamber to the barrel, and with a good clip, it would be fully automatic. My main concern is the perssure capability. Confusing yes, but ile try and get some pics.

EDIT:
heres a pictoral explanation:

The circled red is the orange piece, When the solenoid is activated the air can flow from the light blue to the dark blue.
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Unread postAuthor: starman » Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:39 am

The wires may be potted on the inside of the plastic encapsulation...would make sense since it is designed to operated in an outdoor, water proned environment.

After drying it out, just throw some voltage across the wires and find out.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudFarm » Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:42 am

it has a nasty little restriction there :(

othervise it looks good
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Sun Sep 07, 2008 12:13 pm

So i was playing around with the solonoid itself, and when i trigger it and disconnect it, the solenoid gives out a HV pulse. If you hold 1 of the solonoid connection close to the power source, the solonoid oscillates rapidly, while giving out rapid pulses of HV (ignition coil?). Is there away to recitify and have the HV pulse seperate and not pulsed back into the powersource? I want to try it with a 555, but the HV will ruin the IGBT.

Spudfarm: What reistriction? If you mean the dark blue part, thats only a little smaller then a bb, plus its thinck plastic, so i can drill it so its bigger then a BB. There are 2 ventes on the side to the chamber plenty of flow for a bb.

EDIT 2: I thought you are supposed to block the leak to the upper part of the diaphram compleatly =). I made it so it leaks some now, With a mouthfull of air blowing as hard as i can, it takes about 5 sec. The empty my mouth. Too fast or too slow? or just right?
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Unread postAuthor: starman » Sun Sep 07, 2008 2:33 pm

rp181 wrote:So i was playing around with the solonoid itself, and when i trigger it and disconnect it, the solenoid gives out a HV pulse. If you hold 1 of the solonoid connection close to the power source, the solonoid oscillates rapidly, while giving out rapid pulses of HV (ignition coil?). Is there away to recitify and have the HV pulse seperate and not pulsed back into the powersource? I want to try it with a 555, but the HV will ruin the IGBT.


The solenoid coil is an inductor and the HV pulse is typical response when its magnetic field collapses back down through the coil. You very well may feel a little (big) jolt if you are holding the wires at the time.

It's not unusual to connect a HV diode/resistor circuit across the coil in reverse polarity to shunt this nasty effect.
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Unread postAuthor: rp181 » Sun Sep 07, 2008 2:36 pm

ya, i thought it was just the comp power supply and me touching the wires (my fingers where wet, i had just washed the solenoid) =)

I just put it back together, and blew through, Even my mout pressure is enough to seat the diaphram, before it could leak, it leaked past, but now it doesnt. It turns out the brass rod doesn't push the spring, it goes inside the spring. I see know purpose in this except limiting maximum flow.
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Unread postAuthor: PhotoKirk » Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:13 pm

I just scored 2 of those valves on eBay. The brass pipe can be cut down and inserted backwards. The part that has the galvanized nut is 3/8" (i think) and can be fitted with a ball valve to mod it.
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