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Co2 reg

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Co2 reg

Unread postAuthor: FishBoy » Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:36 am

I've been thinking about purchasing the Kbalt regualtor from lowes ($71.99) and was wondering if anyone knew of any cheaper but still good quality regualtors. (in the US)

Also, will the Kobalt work with normal paintball Co2 tanks?
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Unread postAuthor: FishBoy » Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:35 pm

anybody?
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Unread postAuthor: starman » Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:48 pm

Yeah they will work. Painball tanks are the same as is used for CO2 work site nail guns etc. 125 psi max on that Kobalt regulator though.
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Unread postAuthor: FishBoy » Mon Jan 19, 2009 1:00 pm

do you know of any other cheaper regualtors? (still good quality)

edit- Also whatever the reg is, it needs to work with bbmgs (i saw neospud use the Kobalt in one of his videos)
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:30 pm

Look at the thread the other week about the specials on the Palmer reg's I think it was. Someone listed a reg that costs about $15.
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Unread postAuthor: Eddbot » Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:01 pm

sadly, Palmer's sale on the female stabilizer has ended...
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Unread postAuthor: mike1010 » Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:08 pm

no don't get the kobalt setup for a bbmg. i have it and it really sucks for actual skirmishing. the psi drops to 55 when you start firing and it empties in 1-2 minutes. it might be useable if you put an expansion chamber but still get something that lets you adjust the psi past 115psi you'll be dissapointed in this product... :x
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Unread postAuthor: Angelica67 » Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:35 pm

I am new to pneumatic (old cumbustion gunner). I tried using a standard off the shelf Orbit in line 1" sprinkler valve. Have tried a 1:1 and 2:1 chamber to barrel ratio.

Unless I tape the end of the barrel with masking tape which works kinda like a burst disk, I get very little performance (bang/ejection).

1. What is the problem? (any ideas???)

2. What are these "mods" that everyone talks about on sprinkler valves?

3. Does varying the voltage on a valve affect the speed or opening amount? I was testing with a 19 volt adapter.

Thanks! MJR
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:44 pm

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Unread postAuthor: DR » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:23 pm

amsicomputers wrote:I am new to pneumatic (old cumbustion gunner). I tried using a standard off the shelf Orbit in line 1" sprinkler valve. Have tried a 1:1 and 2:1 chamber to barrel ratio.

Unless I tape the end of the barrel with masking tape which works kinda like a burst disk, I get very little performance (bang/ejection).

1. What is the problem? (any ideas???)


How are you filling your air reservoir? (CHAMBER) If you can only fill it slowly, then the air bleeds out of the small equalization port on the diaphragm.

Take your valve apart (8 screws) and remove the little white plastic water filter, that is in the equalization port of the diaphragm.

Are you activating your valve electrically? The valve is manufactured to prevent water hammer in a n irrigation system. The solenoid bleeds pressure off of the upper portion of the diaphragm slowly, which will cause poor performance in a pneumatic application.

A lot of people remove the electric solenoid and epoxy the hole. (Aesthetics) But you can leave it in place, and still mod the valve for pneumatic actuation.
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Unread postAuthor: Angelica67 » Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:37 pm

Thanks.
I have a meter on the chamber (and safety valve). I can hold it at a steady 80 psi till launching. I DO use the stock electric solenoid for convenience knowing I will suffer "some" degregation in performance. It apears [like you said] that the air is not dumping fast enough and needs the "burst disk" (in this case masking tape over the end of the barrel) to allow the pressure to build to an adequate level.

But yet I read that, out of the box the valves work great and even better with mods. Today, later, I will try increasing the voltage (and amps) to see if the solenoid isn't doing its job due to low power. There are no leaks anywhere and it is a simple, clean build. It has to be the valve.

Thanks..........Michael
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Unread postAuthor: DR » Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:58 pm

amsicomputers,

You mentioned that you were using a 19V adapter... Most all valves are designed to operate with 24V - Which is why you see some spudders using three 9V batteries, wired in series.

As I mentioned previously, valves are also designed to prevent "water-hammer"... As the system is pressurizing, water is routed through a tiny hole in the diaphragm, into the upper portion of the valve. This allows the pressure to equalize on top and bottom.

When the electric solenoid is activated, the water in the upper portion of the valve slowly bleeds through another tiny hole, which is routed to the outside of the valve. - This allows the diaphragm to unseat from the bottom slowly, until most all the water on top of it is gone.

Pneumatic modding allows ALL the air in the upper portion of the valve to dump in several milliseconds.

So, even if you increase the voltage to the recommended 24V, you will still suffer an extreme loss of power.

Sorry, to FishBoy, for the hijack of this thread. Any further discussion on this topic could easily be found elsewhere, in these Forums.
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Unread postAuthor: Angelica67 » Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:20 pm

Well, the problem WAS the power source. Whether it didn't have enough amps (mfgs and others say that it will work on lower than 18v). But when I made a 21 volt battery pack, it all worked great! Yes, I will experiment with the pneumatic actuation, but being able to mount a push button anywhere remotely is really handy.

We want to use this for T-shirts, candy, confetti, etc. at parties in halls and or stadiums. All tests have been VERY successful. It was sure a lot cheaper than buying them pre-made ($1000 to $2000!).

Does anyone know how the t-shirt launchers work without a chamber. It appears that the CO2 tank is attached directly to the barrel assembly
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Unread postAuthor: DR » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:00 pm

amsicomputers wrote:We want to use this for T-shirts, candy, confetti, etc. at parties in halls and or stadiums. All tests have been VERY successful. It was sure a lot cheaper than buying them pre-made ($1000 to $2000!).

Does anyone know how the t-shirt launchers work without a chamber. It appears that the CO2 tank is attached directly to the barrel assembly


No one appears to have made a comment about this thread hijack, so I'll answer amsicomputers' question;

The T-shirt launchers DO appear to operate. solely off of a remote CO2 tank, with no "chamber" in between. I've made several of these, using a pressure-washer handle and a few brass adapters.

You would think that a pressure-washer handle could easily operate under the 850+ psi, that is in the CO2 tank, but the pressure is really developed at the tip of the wand (at the nozzle).

850 psi of ice-cold gas, feeding into a device that was NOT designed for that particular application is dangerous, in my opinion. More often than not, the barrel sprays out ice, even if it is 70 degrees outside.

I've done the same thing with a disposable propane bottle, but some will argue, the dangers involved with using a gas that is highly flammable... and also cause the bottle to begin to freeze-over, after multiple shots.

a 10lb. CO2 bottle, regulator and a small chamber, feeding a modified sprinkler valve, is the safest way to go, but then there's the cost involved.

Good luck with your T-shirt launcher. If you have any other questions, feel free to e-mail or PM me again. ~Dave.
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Unread postAuthor: Ragnarok » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:33 pm

DR wrote:You would think that a pressure-washer handle could easily operate under the 850+ psi, that is in the CO2 tank, but the pressure is really developed at the tip of the wand (at the nozzle).

Actually, it's quite the reverse. The entire purpose of the nozzle is to exchange high fluid pressure for high fluid velocity - for it's the high velocity of the water that gives it the power to clean. The pressure just happens to be a means to that end.

The pressure is thus lowest at the nozzle.

That does not have to mean that the use of the handle is ideal though.
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