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Attaching a 5/16" barrel to a 1 1/4" chamber STRAI

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Attaching a 5/16" barrel to a 1 1/4" chamber STRAI

Unread postAuthor: maverik94 » Tue May 05, 2009 5:11 pm

Ok, Another simple question. What is the best way to attach a 5/16" barrel to a 1 1/4" chamber and make it perfectly straight. Also, it would help if the wall of the chamber that the barrel comes out is straight and not bent. Thanks yall!
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Unread postAuthor: psycix » Tue May 05, 2009 5:57 pm

Play around with fittings.
The chance is small that you will find a 1 1/4" to 5/16" reducer, but if you can find something like a 1 1/4" to 1/2" reducer and a 1/2" to 5/16" bushing, you are good to go.
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Unread postAuthor: maverik94 » Tue May 05, 2009 6:14 pm

ok. Thanks but What I really need is a FLAT front of the chamber, not a slanted reduction like that. Also, what Do I glue Brakeline with? JB Weld?
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Re: Attaching a 5/16" barrel to a 1 1/4" chamber S

Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Tue May 05, 2009 7:07 pm

maverik94 wrote:Ok, Another simple question. What is the best way to attach a 5/16" barrel to a 1 1/4" chamber and make it perfectly straight. Also, it would help if the wall of the chamber that the barrel comes out is straight and not bent. Thanks yall!


To perfectly align a coaxial assy, I sometimes use a rod just large enough to fit in the smaller part (barrel) and wrap the end of it with aluminum foil so it is large enough to center inside the larger part. Use this jig to hold the barrel aligned to the chamber when it is assembled. This helps ensure the valve seat is true to the chamber. If it is less than perfect, a disk on the middle of the rod can later be used for a valve grinding tool to make the seat true to the chamber.

A metal rod with aluminum foil wraps will survive the typical temperatures used for plumbing soldering. Higher temperature materials will be needed if you are silver brazing.
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Valve seat marked with sharpie and sanded true so all areas wear even. The piston will now seat true.
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Unread postAuthor: maverik94 » Tue May 05, 2009 8:21 pm

ok, I will try that, thanks!
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