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PVC Primer + Cement

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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PVC Primer + Cement

Unread postAuthor: webgeek » Sun Jun 07, 2009 12:51 am

Hi all; I'm a little confused and getting conflicting answers. I've been using the "purple primer" stuff from Oatey (what Home Depot and Lowes both sell) combined with medium weight PVC cement and I'm sick of the purple gunk everywhere. I went to the store to see if they had some white or clear primer and they didn't. They did have clear cleaner by the same brand and the "expert" at the store told me it would work the same though inspectors don't like it as they can't verify the joint visibly..

So now I'm asking the real experts. Is this true - the effectiveness, not the inspector part :) ? It appears to work the same in that it causes some expansion in the PVC and it seems even better at cleaning than the primer. It's so good at cleaning that it even removes the printed bar codes and rating labels from the pipe.

Also has anyone use the Gorilla brand of PVC cement (much less stinky - less VOCs specifically so you can use it indoors safely)? It comes highly recommended and is pressure rated to about 160 PSI (according to one source) so I wanted to know what everyone else thinks of it.

Thanks!

-- Mike
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Unread postAuthor: jaythedogg » Sun Jun 07, 2009 12:59 am

Cannot say I have used the latter, but I use clear PVC cleaner & the matching cement from the local hardware & it works beautifully.

Wish I could be of more help. :oops:
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Unread postAuthor: Carlman » Sun Jun 07, 2009 1:17 am

Yea shell be right mate
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Unread postAuthor: Gaderelguitarist » Sun Jun 07, 2009 1:33 am

It should be fine.

But it also depends on what kinds of pressure you're looking to force on those joints.

P.S. If it was a Plumbing Expert and not a floor associate, then they probably do know what their talking about considering they have to be licensed.
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Unread postAuthor: webgeek » Sun Jun 07, 2009 2:01 am

P.S. If it was a Plumbing Expert and not a floor associate, then they probably do know what their talking about considering they have to be licensed.
Heh, we are talking about Home Depot here, I doubt he was a licensed plumber from his responses.

But it also depends on what kinds of pressure you're looking to force on those joints.


All my new projects have a pop-off valve at 120 PSI - FAR below the pressure rating on the pipe and glue, let alone the burst rating.

Thanks for the peace of mind :)

Mike
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Unread postAuthor: jimmy101 » Sun Jun 07, 2009 2:41 pm

I wouldn't trust a licensed plumber with this particular question. Home potable water supplies rarely exceed 100 PSI and generally are closer to 60 PSI (though many "60 PSIG" systems will peak at over 90 PSIG in the early AM). A plumber probably doesn't have much experience with pushing the pipe up near its rating.

For a 1X combustion gun, cleaner + glue is probably OK. For a pneumatic I would be more concerned. If you're just using a generic 120 PSIG shop compressor than it should be OK. If you ever get tempted to push the pressure up near the rating of the pipe then I would not get anywhere near the charged gun if it was assembled with just cleaner + glue. If you are pushing the pipes pressure rating you really need to be sure to do things correctly.

EDIT: Your 120 PSIG pop-off should keep you safe. BTW, the pressure rating of the pipe really should be considered the "fail pressure". Granted the pipe will almost always take a fair bit more pressure but you need a safety margin to help with things like accidentaly dropping the pressurized gun.
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