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Pneumatic Silencer?

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Unread postAuthor: covey12 » Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:24 pm

well, i tried out that design i made a short essay of above, lol, on a smaller scale and it worked, i couldn't even here my 1" cannon going off
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Unread postAuthor: Northir » Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:49 pm

well i built mine, at 3'X3" dry fired it and its just as loud as before, do i have to have it loaded in order for it to work?

i know air will take the easiest path so adding the round would give it a reason to use the suppressor, and do i need to add the wooden disks? i could but if i dont need to. . . well you know
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Unread postAuthor: inonickname » Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:07 pm

Baffles will improve the silencing effect. The round will make a big difference, but you will still need a carefully optimized C:B to get this to work.
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:21 am

Northir wrote:I know air will take the easiest path so adding the round would give it a reason to use the suppressor, and do i need to add the wooden disks? i could but if i dont need to. . . well you know


As above, the blocking action of the projectile is crucial to the functioning of the suppressor, and yes, having baffles will make a difference. You don't have to fit one every inch, say from thefront you could have one at 18 inches, 27inches, 32 inches and 34 inches. Also they don't have to be wooden disks, you could be creative and cast them out of epoxy :)
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Unread postAuthor: Northir » Sat Sep 19, 2009 2:20 am

mkay do the baffles are important, i dont have any, glad i didnt use glue, after this is said and done i might make a how to with what ive learned, making the baffles is going to be a pain in the ass me thinks, i might try epoxy, what thickness do ya think, im thinking like 1/2 inch or more, maybe 3/4, how should i fasten them, screws? that sounds about right to me
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Sep 19, 2009 2:42 am

With a little bit of duct tape wrapping, a soup tin should fit pretty nicely in 3" pipe. If you can punch a hole in the bottom the size of your barrel's outer diameter you can use a number of them as baffles inside the silencer in the same way that some firearm silencers are made:

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Unread postAuthor: Northir » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:00 am

so with a 3' tube i should have the first half lightly packed, tightly, or medium, then soup cans the rest of the way. . . i just want to make sure, this thinks a pain in the ass to take apart
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:14 am

If you're going with soup cans it would probably make sense to just have them all the way, without any packing.
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Unread postAuthor: Northir » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:54 am

well i dont think i have many empty cans if any layin around, so it would prolly be like 2-3 cans so i probably need to pack the barrel end, and if that is the case how tight?
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Sep 19, 2009 4:10 am

Not too tight, and it's a good idea to wrap some kind of mesh screen around the barrel in order for the packing not to stick out through the porting and obstruct the passage of the projectiles.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Sat Sep 19, 2009 4:46 am

packing seems to work nice when there are no baffles at all....
probably because you need something that can slow down air enough so it won't exit via one slit and enter it again via slits further down the barrel...

mine consisted of a tube with lots of slits cut in it perpendicular to the barrel, some packed material and the outer casing built from two 2L bottles...

sure it's simple and ghetto but it dampens the sound to acceptable levels while being relatively light...


baffles, on the other hand would probably offer better performance but they add complexity and weight... keep in mind that barrel acts as a lever so try to build something light
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Unread postAuthor: Northir » Sat Sep 19, 2009 5:07 am

yea i use a support when i have it attached to the barrel, ill post some pics when im all done, as well as that How-to i promised
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Sep 19, 2009 5:16 am

POLAND_SPUD wrote:sure it's simple and ghetto but it dampens the sound to acceptable levels while being relatively light...


You should have more pride in your work :P but hey, if it works :D

As to the subject of this thread, if done with cup shaped baffles with holes for the projectile to pass through, the ported barrel can be eliminated. I would only do this for a spudgun firing regular projeciles however, for projectiles that would tend to tumble then the ported barrel should be retained, as it is for shotgun suppressors which would otherwise be damaged by spreading shot.

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Unread postAuthor: Northir » Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:37 pm

id think if some one had a ported barrel with a spud gun shooting spuds would be quite messy, personnaly i dont plan on using spuds with my silencer

Update: its all done i got 4 tin cans total the rest is insulation going to test it tonight at a friends house, hope it works
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Unread postAuthor: Northir » Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:27 pm

well not sure why but it doesnt work hardly at all, could be my B:C ratio still
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