Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot]
Who is online
In total there are 41 users online :: 3 registered, 0 hidden and 38 guests
Most users ever online was 218 on Wed Dec 07, 2016 6:58 pm
Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot] based on users active over the past 5 minutes
Hey guys first post so be kind
After a week of Googlefu and researching Paintball guns, T-sirt cannons, spear guns, potato guns and air cannons. Let's just say my Google fu is a little weak. I have been lead to Spudfiles to ask questions. I am needing help with all areas of my project and will be open for ideas you may offer.
If it helps, I have access to CNC machines, lathes, and EDM's and I am a tig welder by trade .
First off my project is limited to being 47.50" long X 4.25" ID and 4.5" OD. The only thing I want to be on the outside is the fire control and possibly a knob that I can fine tune the PSI. Of course I will have access panels that can slide so I can gain access to components and gauges.
So far I have bought a 70 CI /4500 PSI Carbon fiber Nitrogen tank http://www.guerrillaair.com/products.php , and in the moring UPS is suppose to be dropping off the Aluminum tube that will house everything. I am already up to $240 for just these 2 parts. Not sure on my budget yet, I just know I don't like trial and error and want to do this right the first time .
I am limiting my project to 150 PSI at max. I am making it to be flexible and versitile and will have a few sleaves for the barrel that will be made to be max 2" so it can take the little Nerf pocket Vortex and empty caulking tubes ( 2"" Diameter for either ). Probably do a sleave that can shoot plain old .61" paintballs and possibly do one that shoots nerf darts( .5" ). I need to be able to accuratly adjust from 5psi all the way to 150 psi .
I am not sure on the length of my barrel since I don't know yet of all the components and fittings going in the rear of the thing, other than the Nitrogen tank that's 10" long. I am hoping the barrel will be at least 24" long however.
I have searched high and low for valves and it seems there are hundred to choose from ..Go figure . I am wanting this thing to be as effecient as possible
so I need this valve to open and close as fast as possible so I don't waste nitrogen and because my barrel isn't going to be real long. This valve also has to work off of 18 volts and under also. 80% of what I have researched has been about Valves but there are hundreds and it's tough to realize what I need. I hope to not have to reinvent the wheel, and that's why I am here. Figured this stuff is right up you alls alley.
I am hoping to get at least 30 shots with a single tank before having to refill it using the nerf Vortex and hopefully 70+ shots firing smaller objects.
My objective is to push the button and release the air, then load an object through the front and push the button again and get consistantcy. I am not doing any crazy breach load design, so keeping that part nice and simple.
Also what regulators will I need. From what I have gathered, I need 2 ?
Since I don't know anyone in Arizona that can help me out, hopefully someone here can.
You can PM me however not sure if that works, Email me direct, call or post here
Edit by MrCrowley:
I've removed your contact details for privacy reasons. Everyone who can help you out can help you out on the forum or use Private Message. If you and another member want to chat some more, then PM that member your contact details. Best not to have it on the forum for everyone to see.
Sounds like a fairly simple project to accomplish especially if you have those resources at your disposal. Are you looking to make something hand-held or an artillery type mount? Also, why the need for an electric valve?
I would suggest using a a small solenoid valve to pilot a Quick Exhaust valve.
It will give you better results as a solenoid valve alone is too slow.
Well, to our standards that is.
But then again, with your skils you should really go for a piston valve, piloted by a solenoid valve.
Use the wiki button in the top to learn about these valves.
Oh..and welcome to the forum..can't wait to see what a craftsman like yourself has to contribute here!
Gun Freak wrote:
Oh my friggin god stop being so awesome, that thing is pure kick ass. Most innovative and creative pneumatic that the files have ever come by!
Can't ask for a better compliment!!
I'm wondering why you need an electric valve as well. You can drop the batteries and go with a pneumatic valve and have better results. I'm assuming you are going to go all metal. In that case, I'd find a QEV and use that. They will easily take the desired pressure you mentioned.
Regulators: Only 1 - Palmer's Stabilizer. It adjusts from 0 to 800 psi and is omnigas ready. It is the best one I've ever used.
Getting the right amount of shots: That's complicated, or is it? It is dependant on several things...all of which I've done for you and put together in a simple to use calculator. It can be found in the Hubb Library under Portabla Tank Calculator.
Yes hand held project for fun.
"Why Electric valve"
I will probably have the fire button a good distance from the other componenets and felt I will probably have to go with something I can mount anywhere. It would be nice to not have to deal with batteries however.
this is the fastest that i have seen and used.. not sure how much those cost, but i have 1" valve and 3/4" valve, and both work very well
Check the wiki on a QEV.
I am inclined to think that this is what you are indeed after, and no batteries are needed to pilot said valve. Simply connect a hose to the exhaust portion of this valve and run the hose up to the trigger, which can be a pushbutton blowgun trigger valve.
And, if you are worried about efficiency, you could also opt for microline (which you may be familiar with since you have a HPA tank). It will reduce the pilot volume, still allow for decent efficiency, and give you what you are after.
I went to their site, but there is more than one reg .Can you tell me the one your talking about ?
http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/cart/inde ... 20a&page=1
Edited by jrrdw.
Well, that's one of the beauties of choosing a Stabilizer. They are configured in just about any kind of way you would want. Start with the basic inline one. It has 1/8"NPT input and 1/8" NPT output, which will probably make it easier to hook to a launcher. It also happens to be the cheapest one too.
Last edited by tatfree on Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hubb thanks for the help.
By the way can you put a direct link to your liberary, can't seem to find the tank calculator you mentioned ?
Ummmm Duhhh...Geeeez I looked everyplace but the obvious. Guess I'm loosing it in my old age
Thanks,I'll check it out.
Who is online
Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot]