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Pump Shaft Usable?

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Pump Shaft Usable?

Unread postAuthor: Mpeddlesden » Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:42 pm

Ive decided a low pressure co-axil would not be satisfying enough for me so i need to build a pump (I would find a fridge compressor but there like gold here) i was going to build a pump like Gippeto's ''stirrup pump''. but than changed to more of a design of far_cry's shock pump.

http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/my-second-shock-pump-full-diatelas-t18650.html


QUESTION.

I have decided to use 3/4 Galvanized pipe (Cheap, sting, manageable)
BUT there is a welded notch that run's along the inside length of the pipe would this be a problem.?


Has any one used Galvanized pipe for a pumps main body
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:54 pm

The ridge is most definitely a problem. I had to deal with it in my QDV valve builds.

With sandpaper glued to a dowel and a drill, the ridge can be sanded out. Here is what a galvanized pipe looks like in my Marshmallow cannon after polishing to remove the ridge.
Image

Here is another build with extensive sanding to deal with the ridge and rust. You can see remains of the ridge. Original piece of the pipe is on the left for comparison.
Image

Edit, I remembered I have a video online regarding preparing a pipe for use with a psiton and o rings. I hope this helps.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3AVz0USQWI[/youtube]
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Unread postAuthor: ramses » Wed Jun 16, 2010 2:05 pm

I had my dad drill out a 3/4" pipe with a 27/32" drill bit at work. That worked fairly well, but I sanded the inside afterword. It was a short length, so I simply chucked a Mandrel in a drill, wrapped it in sand paper (80 grit, we don't have anything finer), held the pipe in a vice, and...

For a pump type length, it would be harder, especially for a small diameter. Even with a lathe, boring bars can only be only so long before they flex.

After you get it close to smooth, you could try a brake cylinder hone from harbor freight in a drill on an extension rod.
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Wed Jun 16, 2010 4:19 pm

See if you can get seamless steel tubing...no welding ridge. :)

Try an online supplier if you can't get it locally from your welding shop.

Online metals, Metal supermarket, etc. will have it.

More money...yes, but also a LOT less work.
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:27 pm

Brake cylinder hones are made for glaze breaking. They are very slow in cutting metal. Sandpaper is much faster cutting. A hone is OK for finishing touches, but not for ridge cutting. You will want a course fast cutting grit to get the job done quickly then finished up with a fine grit for the polish. My rusty barrel was done with 80, 120, & 150 grit. 300 & 600 grit is not needed unless you are looking for a mirror finish. Most of the heavy cutting is done with large grit.
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Unread postAuthor: clemsonguy1125 » Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:38 pm

how long is your pumps shaft, at my hardware store the short 12 inch pieces and shorter have the ridge, the 18 inch and up dont
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:43 pm

I built valves using o rings, not pumps. 18 inch is a good length for a pump.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:55 pm

Tech I think clemsonguy1125 was talking to Mpeddlesden, not you :D. Anyway, 18 inches is a little short for a good pump don't you think? I am planning a small hand pump that gets higher pressures than a normal handpump, somewhere in the 100-150 psi range, like a shock pump with bigger volume, that will probably have a galvanized steel nipple for a main body...
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Unread postAuthor: saefroch » Wed Jun 16, 2010 9:01 pm

Personally I'd go with Gippeto's suggestion and get seamless stainless steel from a supplier, that's what I'm using for the pump cylinder on my pump- it is half the diameter though- And the finish on it is incredible. Just place the order and it ships... no work with homemade sanding wheels or the like.
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Unread postAuthor: ramses » Wed Jun 16, 2010 10:54 pm

I wouldn't go over 18". At the top of the stroke, that gives you 36", a little above the average person's waist.
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Unread postAuthor: Mpeddlesden » Thu Jun 17, 2010 4:11 am

I own and use a brake cylinder hone Ive used on my steel coaxial for the pistons stoke, the only thing that would be the best and easiest is "Technician1002"s technique.
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Unread postAuthor: Mpeddlesden » Thu Jun 17, 2010 4:25 am

This is the Brake Cylinder Hone i have.
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Unread postAuthor: Crna Legija » Thu Jun 17, 2010 5:55 am

i think it would be essayer to just get some copper pipe its smooth already
or alu and use compression fittings
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:15 am

Or do as deathbyDWV suggested to me, use a brass nipple... they're smooth on the inside and threaded....
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:11 am

I don't recommend copper pipe. It is too easily damaged, ether bent, dented, or fatigued. They don't like lots of mechanical stresses in the pump application. Use a stronger harder material.
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