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Sealing face leaking at pressures above 200psi

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Thu Aug 19, 2010 5:28 am

c11man wrote:well good job finding the leak. and i dont know why everyone wanted you to epoxy the sealing face around the bolt, ive never had one lead in my numerous pistons.


Because most pistons with center bolts get those leaks. Whats your secret?

A-98 wrote:Anyone know a good way to keep it from getting tarnished? I was using gun oil, but I bought some lacquer spray and figure I'll give that a shot.


You will have to go over everything you want to clear coat (use the lacquer on) with 1200 grit wet sand, then clean and dry before clearing. Be advised, all clear coats that come from rattle cans take a good week to fully cure and they cure soft.

The reason rattle can clears do this is because they contain a large amount of thinner to give them shelf life. When you buy 2 part clear and mix it according to manufacture directions you get about 2 hours tops to clear your project.

One more thing to be careful of is that on some surfaces it may have a dark look to it, all most black. If I where you I would clear a test piece 1st then look at it under different shades of light to be sure if it turns out like you want it to.
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Unread postAuthor: JDP12 » Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:01 am

I wonder if using nyloc nuts would do it-- those nuts with a nylon insert to prevent the nuts from vibrating loose
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Unread postAuthor: A-98 » Thu Aug 19, 2010 11:37 am

Where would one buy this 2-part lacquer? Any recommended brands?
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Thu Aug 19, 2010 12:03 pm

Nyloc nuts don't seal. They do work well to keep them in place. I use one to hold the piston in my 2 inch QDV.
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Thu Aug 19, 2010 5:10 pm

A-98 wrote:Where would one buy this 2-part lacquer? Any recommended brands?


Do all the prep work yourself then take it to your local auto body shop and have them clear coat it for you. A quart of good grade 2K clear cost $40.00 + $12.00 hazard fee the ship in the lower 48 states. To cover you project you might need 4 ounces tops. Even if you only mix enough to cover the cannon the rest will probly gel before you use it, short shelf life with this stuff.

If you want to get your own any way, I get mine from TCP Global , I use House of Color 2K. There are all different kinds, rule of thump here is you get what you pay for. You also need sprayer and cleaning kit for your basic size sprayer.

You'll get a better deal going to the body shop. A lot of air brush artist take all their projects to the body shop because it saves money and time, not to mention it takes experience to get it right the 1st time or a lot of extra work on the redo...
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Unread postAuthor: A-98 » Thu Aug 19, 2010 5:57 pm

Sweet thanks, that's a good idea.

Now my only question is; do I want to lacquer the cannon now? See, the problem is it's not really "complete", it's just functional. I had planned to make it a lot more complex, but ran out of time during the summer. Cause I get the feeling that once I clear-coat it, I'm not gonna want to redesign it too much.
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