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Valve wont fire.

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Valve wont fire.

Unread postAuthor: n2extreme1 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 5:34 pm

Ok I read the stickies and found what might be my issue. I have an Orbit 1in valve. when I test it without air it works fine and you can hear the click. when I put air to it there is no click and it will not release the air. It is a double barrel cannon and the valve on the right works fine with air but the valve on the left does not. I thought it was the valve so I replaced it but I am having the same issues. Im sure it is user error but Im stumped. The stickies set to modify the solenoid but if one side works fine out of the box why would I need to change the other side?
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Aug 18, 2010 5:39 pm

Did you put it on the right way? Is it a chamber sealer or a barrel sealer?
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Unread postAuthor: n2extreme1 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:02 pm

Yes I followed the arrows for the air flow direction. As for your 2nd question Im not exactly sure what you mean.
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:10 pm

Yeah not sure what Gun Freak meant by that either :?

I have some questions for you:
What do you mean when you say it works without air?
What pressure are you using to test it?
What is your pilot valve?
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:27 pm

Gun Freak wrote:Did you put it on the right way? Is it a chamber sealer or a barrel sealer?


I'm assumeing Gun Freak missed that these are the main valves and not pilot valves.

2 valves in the same possision doing the same thing tells me it's a air flow to the valve problem, not a valve problem...
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Unread postAuthor: n2extreme1 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:51 pm

Image

Here is the launcher. Barrels not attached. I tested the valves with pressures from 50psi to 125 psi. Left side works fine but the right side will not. What I meant when I said it worked without air was that the solenoid clicks when hooked up to a battery but when I apply air to it and try to fire there is no click. Degass the chamber and the solenoid clicks.
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Unread postAuthor: hi » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:58 pm

I have the same valve. If you take it apart you will find a small white plastic piece on the diaphragm. I have no clue why it is there, but you need to remove it. Its small, white, and has holes in it. Just pull it out. After you remover it, it should work.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Aug 18, 2010 7:44 pm

Ah, those are barrel sealers. Jar top sprinkler valves are chamber sealers. Your type is a barrel sealer. Just wondering, because I wasn't sure if you modded them or not. What battery are you using to power the solenoid? It sounds like you need more power, but I would pneumatically modify them, better performance and it is cheaper than buying batteries and switches and all that.
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Unread postAuthor: jhalek90 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:35 pm

actually gun freak, those are chamber sealers.
chamber sealing diaphragm valves.

To n2extreme1:
You problem lies with the way you are triggering your vales.

Are you wiring the solenoids in series or parallel? It should work if you have them wired in parallel. what are you powering this with? the valves require 24 volts DC.

If you are wiring them in series, only one will open due to the drop in voltage across the first solenoid.

You would also see a large improvement(and fix your problem) if you modded the valves for pneumatic operation.
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Unread postAuthor: n2extreme1 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:47 pm

I was just using two 9 volts to trigger the valve. I had them wired in series as I thought that would be better and give it more power but I will try parallel. I think it was a lack of power issue. I think by adding the air the 2 batteries were not strong enough to open the valve. I will add a third battery and see how that goes. It now appears as though the 4in to 2in reducer that leads to the valves didnt seal with the cement. Do I pretty much have to scrap it or cut off everything from the reducer back or is there a sealent that I can go along the out side of the fitting and pipe with?
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Unread postAuthor: Crna Legija » Thu Aug 19, 2010 12:12 am

keep that batterys in series but have the valves in parallel
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Unread postAuthor: BeaverRat » Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:06 am

If I were you, I would attach a hose barb to the cover of each sprinkler valve, run the hose to a tee, and then actuate via a modified blow gun or ball valve.

Jhalek, I am almost positive that Gunfreak is correct in that those valve are both barrel sealing. The barrel takes a 90 degree turn in the valve that the diaphram seals on. Barrel sealing valves have no guide rod, so you can drill the pilot hole in the dead center.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:46 pm

@Jhalek, they are definitely barrel sealers.
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Unread postAuthor: clemsonguy1125 » Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:05 pm

Id scrap it an rebuild it just because its DWV, not thats its leaking scares me even more the only gun Ive ever had leak blew apart at 60 psi
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:30 pm

clemsonguy1125 wrote:Id scrap it an rebuild it just because its DWV, not thats its leaking scares me even more the only gun Ive ever had leak blew apart at 60 psi

It actually might be pressure rated. You can get pressure rated bell reducers and I have a feeling this is one. Though it should be checked just to be sure it isn't DWV.
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