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Need Compressor Help!

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Need Compressor Help!

Unread postAuthor: Mpeddlesden » Tue Aug 24, 2010 2:57 am

I Got this A/C Compressor a while ago and My cousin and i did this to it, He thinks i should leave it how it is but i want it without all the wires & more compact like "boyntonstu's" BTU 8,000 compressor without a million wires hanging every where.

So my Question is How can i get this compressor to work without all the wires and boxes on it?? I know it's possible to do it i just dont know how to thanks.





<a href="http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab343/tyjgjfghjgjtyutjg/?action=view&current=AllWires-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab343/tyjgjfghjgjtyutjg/AllWires-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>





<a href="http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab343/tyjgjfghjgjtyutjg/?action=view&current=WireView.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab343/tyjgjfghjgjtyutjg/WireView.jpg" border="0" alt="Whole Setup"></a>



<a href="http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab343/tyjgjfghjgjtyutjg/?action=view&current=Fullview.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab343/tyjgjfghjgjtyutjg/Fullview.jpg" border="0" alt="Compressor"></a>
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Unread postAuthor: Crna Legija » Tue Aug 24, 2010 3:20 am

im no expert but i think you need most of that stuff the only think you can cut out is the light and thermostat wich you probly already have.

possibly if you go to a electronics store you could get the same components but smaller ones.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:38 am

you are wasting a lot of space
First of all, get a smaller connector block.
Then get a large junction box and put all the parts inside.
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Unread postAuthor: c11man » Tue Aug 24, 2010 9:06 am

you can make it smaller yes. you seem to have a sart capacitor, relay and run capacitor. this gives you high starting torque meaning it can sart when there is still around 150psi on the oulet side. you could remove the start capacitor and relay. it would still work fine but the oulet could only be at around 50psi when it starts.

<a href="http://s696.photobucket.com/albums/vv321/c11man/medium%20size%20fridgy/?action=view&current=100_0151.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv321/c11man/medium%20size%20fridgy/100_0151.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

if you look at the compressor on the far right you will see it is the same style compressor as yours, also i have all the necessary componets mounted on the compressor it self, inlucind a very powerful fan

oh and one more thing, lose the connection block. use wirenuts instead
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Tue Aug 24, 2010 1:12 pm

I wouldn't suggest removing the start capacitor, as it doesn't add much bulk, and is very beneficial for starting the motor under load.

Of all those parts, about the only thing you can remove without affecting the operation of the compressor is the connection block. Shorten the wiring, replace the connection block with solder joints, and mount everything closer to the tank.

I think your current issue is not an excess of wiring and boxes, but poor component integration.
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Unread postAuthor: Mpeddlesden » Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:44 pm

Here is another Question i have about my compressor
"I was told this was a oil system or something But i wasn't allowed to remove it" what is it?



<a href="http://s878.photobucket.com/albums/ab343/tyjgjfghjgjtyutjg/?action=view&current=oildefibulator.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab343/tyjgjfghjgjtyutjg/oildefibulator.jpg" border="0" alt="oil section"></a>
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Tue Aug 24, 2010 8:33 pm

That is an oil cooling loop. Liquid freon enters from the condenser in the line at the top of the white circle. This used to connect to the liquid freon line after the condenser coil. From there it goes into a capillary tube which acts like an expansion valve. The capilary tube is the small coiled tube. The boiling freon than enters a cooling loop on the bottom of the compressor to cool the crankcase oil. The other end of the oil cooling loop then vents inside the case along with the low side suction line.

Since you are not using freon to cool the oil, this is ineffective with just intake air. It may be removed and the port at the bottom of the compressor sealed off.

If you blow into the suction line, you may find a small amount of air will blow out of that cooling loop tube.
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Unread postAuthor: c11man » Wed Aug 25, 2010 11:17 pm

SpudBlaster15 wrote:I wouldn't suggest removing the start capacitor, as it doesn't add much bulk, and is very beneficial for starting the motor under load.



i would, how often do you restard the compressor while its still under load?
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Unread postAuthor: ramses » Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:29 pm

c11man wrote:
SpudBlaster15 wrote:I wouldn't suggest removing the start capacitor, as it doesn't add much bulk, and is very beneficial for starting the motor under load.



i would, how often do you restard the compressor while its still under load?


bleed the line to the pressure tank first, using the valve you put there to bleed it before you ruin your quick disconnects 8)

AKA, remove the load. The motor may not start even without the load if it sits for a while and gets "stiff" or frozen.
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Unread postAuthor: jimmy101 » Fri Aug 27, 2010 9:03 pm

You really need to get all that 120VAC wiring into a suitable box. It is a heck of a health and fire hazard exposed like that.

You might consider going to the local hardware store and getting the biggest "junction box" you can find. You should be able to get at least a 4-ganger for perhaps $5. You might even find a 6-ganger. See if you can get all the parts in that (minus the bus strip as others have suggested).

I prefer plastic junction boxes but a metal one is sturdier. If you use metal then you must use a grounded plug and the box should be tied to the ground.

Get the cover plate that fits the box. Preferably perhaps one without any holes in it except for the screw holes.

A six gang plastic box:
Image

A single end plate. You need two plus however many central plates for your box. Or, if you are lucky they'll have the proper full sized blank plate.
Image

You may be able to strap the box directly to the compressor using a big-ass strap clamp.

For real safety, get a GFI outlet and put it in the box as well. Any shorts and the GFI will trip. Much cheaper than a funeral.
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